Lenin Peak
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Abu Ali ibn Sino | |
---|---|
Elevation | 7,134 metres (23,406 feet) |
Location | Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan |
Range | Trans-Alay Range (Pamirs) |
Prominence | 2,790 metres |
Coordinates | |
First ascent | 1928 by Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider (Germany) |
Easiest route | rock/snow/ice climb |
Lenin Peak, known as Mount Kaufmann until 1928, is the highest mountain in the Trans-Alay Range of central Asia and the second highest peak in the Pamir Mountains, exceeded only by Ismail Samani Peak (7,495m). It stands on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan; it is the highest point in the latter, as Ismail Samani Peak is entirely within Tajikistan. It is also sometimes referred to as "Achiktash". It was discovered in 1871 and originally named after Konstantin Kaufman.
In 1928 the mountain was renamed after the Russian revolutionary and first leader of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Lenin. It was thought to be the highest mountain in the Pamirs until 1933, when Ismail Samani Peak (known as Stalin Peak at the time) was climbed and found to be more than 300 metres higher (7,495 m).
The peak was renamed again in July 2006. But there are conflicting reports about the peak's new correct name. The name Independence Peak (Qullai Istiqlol) is reported by various Russian media, but a Tajik presidential web page gives this name to a lower peak and gives the 7134 m peak the name after Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicenna) (see Avicenna Peak for the other conflicting name). Consequently the previous and more familiar name Lenin Peak has been temporarily restored to this page until the situation is clarified.
The peak was first climbed in 1928 by Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider, members of a German expedition.
There are 16 established routes, nine on the southern side and seven on the northern slopes. The peak is quite popular with climbers due to its easy access and some uncomplicated routes. However, the peak is not without its share of disasters. In 1974, an entire team of eight female climbers died high on the mountain in a storm. An avalanche triggered by an earthquake killed 43 climbers in 1990.