Knitted fabric

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Knitted fabrics are the third major class of fabric, after woven and nonwoven fabrics.

Contents 1 Elasticity, thickness and warmth 2 Structure of knitted fabrics 3 Composition of knitted fabrics 4 Styles of knitted fabrics 5 Designing with knitted fabrics 6 Care of knitted fabrics 7 References

[edit] Elasticity, thickness and warmth

Compared to the other two classes, knitted fabrics are much more elastic, which accounts for their historical use in stockings and other clothing that requires changes in shape. Hence, dresses and lingerie made from knitted fabrics can be more form-fitting than counterparts made from a woven fabric. Knit fabrics can stretch from 0 to 500%, depending on their material and knitting pattern. Lace knitting generally produces the most flexible fabric, since it has large holes that can deform in shape; by contrast, cable knitting generally produces the least flexible fabric, since the stitches are crossed under tension, which inhibits deformation. Knitted fabrics that do not deform much are called stable knits. For comparion, woven fabrics typically deform only along their bias direction — i.e., at 45° to the warp and weft directions — and only by a small amount; however, a woven fabric made with a stretchable material such as Lycra may deform more than a stable knit.

The elasticity of woven fabrics gives them an excellent drape, but this is opposed somewhat by their generally greater thickness compared to wovens. Thus, the turn of the cloth (i.e., the maximum curvature of a fold of the fabric) is generally finer in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics. For this reason, knitted fabrics resist wrinkles better than wovens, but do not take a crease in general.

Knitted fabrics are generally warmer than woven fabrics which is why they are worn closer to the body. Knitted fabrics are much more comfortable than woven fabrics. Moreover, knitted fabrics are often made from wool, which stays warm even when wet; wool is preferred since it is more elastic than most fibers and produces more even, beautiful knits. In general, elasticity and warmth are opposing qualities in a knitted fabric, since the most elastic knitted fabrics, such as lace, have the largest holes and allow more wind to pass through.

[edit] Structure of knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic types: warp-knit fabrics such as tricot and weft-knit fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items have the drawback that they run when cut. Warp-knit fabrics are often used in lingerie.

knits shrink knits have nap ribs/wales versus courses

• generally* more elasticity along the course than along the wale

[edit] Composition of knitted fabrics

[edit] Styles of knitted fabrics

• Boiled wool

• Bunting

• Double knits

• Four-way stretch knits

• Interlock knits

• Jersey

• Milanese

• Power net

• Raschel knits

• Rib knits

• Single knits

• Stable knits

• Stretch knits

• Stretch velour

• Sweater knits

• Sweatshirt knits

• Tricot

• Two-way strtech knits

[edit] Designing with knitted fabrics

a lot less ease required

stabilize seams with tape

use stretchy thread, sew with shorter stitches and looser tension for flex use ballpoint needles to avoid splitting yarn

[edit] Care of knitted fabrics

[edit] References

• Shaeffer, Claire. Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. Radnor, PA: Chilton Book Company. ISBN 0-8019-7802-5.