Jumar

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A Jumar is mechanical device for ascending on a rope, named after the Swiss factory 'Jümar', and is more generically known as an ascender. The device's name also leads to the term Jumaring for the process of using such a device. Another term for this process is jugging.

Jumars offer similar functionality as prusik knots but are stronger, faster, safer and easier to use. A jumar employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction (usually the intended direction of movement) provide a firm grip on the rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent a Jumar from accidentally coming off the rope, a locking mechanism or trigger is deployed. The Jumar is first attached to the climber's harness by a piece of webbing or sling, and then the Jumar is clipped onto the rope and locked. For climbing on a fixed rope attached, for example, to snow anchors on a steep slope, only one Jumar is used as the other hand is free for holding an ice axe.

Jumaring, also referred to as jugging, is where the second climber (the one who belayed the lead climber on the route) uses ascenders to climb the rope instead of climbing directly on the rock. Along with the ascenders, a webbing "ladder" called Étrier (or aiders) are typically used to allow the climber to use their feet to step up and pull themselves up the rope.

Jumaring is not typically performed on free climbing routes where a climber uses his or her hands and feet on the rock, climbing the features, edges, cracks, and pockets that the route provides without artificial aids. Typically, Jumaring is reserved for aid climbing where the climbers are climbing near featureless faces of rock, usually with very thin cracks that a person probably could not get their fingers into to make the holds useful. In aid climbing, the climbers are very dependent on gear placements to ascend the route, using the Étrier to step as high as possible on a piece of gear to place another piece of gear. Since some pieces are only intended for placement for movement and not protection, the leader does not leave every piece of gear he places to climb the route. The leader can climb with a lighter rack if he or she places gear necessary to advance on the route, then removes gear regularly as he steps into the next higher Étrier, yet leaving enough safely placed gear to protect against a fall. Once the leader has set up the belay, the former belayer begins climbing the rope. Since the leader has more than likely removed a great deal of gear as he or she climbed the route, and the rock being relatively featureless, it makes Jumaring necessary to ascend the route.

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