Jerzy Kukuczka
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| Born: | March 24, 1948 Katowice Poland |
|---|---|
| Died: | October 24, 1989 Lhotse, Nepal |
| Occupation: | Mountaineer |
Jerzy Kukuczka (March 24, 1948–October 24, 1989), born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On September 18, 1987, he became the second man after Reinhold Messner to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world.
[edit] Eight-thousanders
Kukuczka is considered by many to be one of the best high-altitude climbers ever. He ascended all fourteen peaks in eight years, faster than anybody else. In the process, Kukuczka established ten new routes and climbed four summits during the winter. What makes this even more amazing is the fact that all early climbs were done from the communist Poland with very poor equipment and no sponsors.
- 1979 — Lhotse - normal route
- 1980 — Mount Everest - new route
- 1981 — Makalu - new route, solo
- 1982 — Broad Peak - normal route, alpine style
- 1983 — Gasherbrum II - new route, alpine style
- 1983 — Gasherbrum I - new route, alpine style
- 1984 — Broad Peak - new route, alpine style
- 1985 — Dhaulagiri - first winter ascent
- 1985 — Cho Oyu - first winter ascent, new route
- 1985 — Nanga Parbat - new route
- 1986 — Kanchenjunga - first winter ascent
- 1986 — K2 - new route, alpine style
- 1986 — Manaslu - new route, alpine style
- 1987 — Annapurna I - first winter ascent
- 1987 — Shisha Pangma - new route, alpine style
Jerzy Kukuczka died attempting the South Face of Lhotse in Nepal on October 24, 1989 at an altitude of about 8200 meters. A second-hand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu snapped during the climb plunging him to his death.
[edit] Bibliography
Kukuczka, Jerzy (1992). My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Mountaineers Books, 189pp. ISBN 0-89886-344-9.
