Hemkund
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Hemkund Sahib, with a spectacular setting of a glacial lake surrounded by seven peaks, is a popular pilgrimage site for Sikhs. It is located in the Himalayas at an elevation of over 15,000 ft in Uttarakhand state of India. A sacred Sikh Gurdwara has been built on the shores of Hemkund Lake.
The Sikh reference begins with a line in the autobiographical poem "Bichittar Natak" by the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh. In it is described a place deep in the Himalyas with a glacial lake and surrounded by seven peaks where in a previous incarnation, He meditated and united with the Master. In 1930, a Sikh soldier, Havildar Sohan Singh found Hemkund as he was trekking through this region. He connected it with the place from Guru Gobind Singh's writings. The Sikh religious organizations eventually picked up on this find and designated Hemkund as a special place for worship.
Hindu mythology also claims this spot as the place where Lakshman, Lord Rama's brother did his penance. The mythological name for Hemkund is "Lokpal". The river flowing through this valley along the path from Gobindghat to Gobinddham is called Lakshman Ganga.
Hemkund Sahib is inaccessible because of snow from October through April. Each year the first Sikh pilgrims arrive in May and set to work to repair the damage to the path over the harsh winter. This Sikh tradition is called "kar seva" (literally "work service") and forms an important tenet of the Sikh faith of belonging to and contributing to the community.
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[edit] Planning a trek to Hemkund
The take-off point for Hemkund is the town of Gobindghat about 275 km from Rishikesh. There is ample parking here and pilgrims will arrive by bus or leave their automobiles or motorcycles here. There is Sikh gurudwara where the journey begins by foot with a prayer and some delicous halva(Prashad). The 13 km trek from here is along a reasonably well maintained path to the village of Gobinddham or Ghangaria. There is another Gurudwara where pilgrims can spend the night. In addition there are a few hotels and a well-maintained campground with tents and mattresses. After this a 5,000 ft climb in 6 km of stone paved path reaches Hemkund. There are no sleeping arrangements at Hemkund and one is advised to leave by 2PM to make it back to Gobinddham by nightfall.
From Delhi, take the Train to Rishikesh and then by bus to Gobindghat. After Gobindghat, it is a 19 km trek to Hemkund. You can also drive from Delhi to Gobindghat; it will take about 18 hours. You will need to stop for the night at at least one point between Rishikesh and Gobindghat. Simple and clean hotels are available along the way. Auli, a ski resort at 10,000 ft, is a good place to stop for an extra day - rest and acclamatize to the high altitude. The main town below Auli is Joshimath; Auli is a 20 minutes ride by a Ropeway. If you did drive all the way from Delhi, you will appreciate the extra day in Auli.
Small stalls selling hot tea and bottled water and other drink line the path from Gobindghat to the tree line below Hemkund. The price for a bottled water increases from about Rs. 10 in the plains to about Rs. 30 at 14,000 ft. The larger stalls offer aloo parathas that taste very good when spiced up by exhaustion.
[edit] Spectacular Nature
During the Monsoons even at Rishikesh the Ganges is a swollen angry river muddy from the silt it carries. The speed of the enormous amount of water will surprise you. Along the banks there are bathing "ghats" where you can hang on to chains while you immerse yourself in the icy water; it is obviously not safe for swimming.
As you drive deeper into the Himalayas you will follow the gorges and valleys of the mighty Ganges and its tributaries. The tributaries of the Ganges merge along the way and the towns at the confluences carry the suffix "prayag" Sanskrit for "place of sacrifice". e.g. Rudraprayag.
At all major "prayags" there are Hindu temples precisely in the V of the confluence and it is generally possible to walk down to these temples and watch the angry merger up close.
The hike itself is mind-boggling in what it offfers. During the month of May, Himalayan rhododendrons bloom all around you. The flowers bloom all summer long and the varieties vary as you climb. Most of the hike is along the cliffs or through Pine forests. Ferns and moss line the path. On the climb up to Hemkund you will go past the tree line and the change in vegetation will be evident.
There are several glaciers that you will see along the path. There is one that comes down directly from Hemkund. A beautiful glacier also seems to be keeping watch over the village of Gobinddham directly due east.
The one amazing sight not to miss is the cluster of honey bee hives about half way between Gobindghat and Gobinddham. As you cross the "big" bridge and start climbing up the side of the mountain, look above you to your right. There is a cliff about a 1000 ft. high with an overhang with giant beehives located on the overhang; the overhang protects from the elements and has allowed these hives to grow to the size of small cars.
[edit] Some things to Remember
1. You must be in good health to make this trip. The last section of 5 km with a climb from 10,000 ft to 15,000 ft is strenuous and not for those with any heart condition or not in good physical shape. At a minimum, if you cannot run 5 km in less than 50 minutes you are not in a fit condition to make the trek. You will need to rent a pony.
2. It is not enough to be barely able to make this hike; you must be in good shape so that you are not tired and become lax in where you step and not get trapped by the stream of horses that will go past you in both direction. Frequently, you will be on a three feet wide path with a cliff towering above you on one side and a steep drop of a thousand feet on the other. Every year, there are deaths reported along this path. Even young people, in good health, have fallen to their deaths along these cliffs. On the other hand, this is no worse than crossing a busy street; the difference is that you have a tendency to relax and not be careful when surrounded by the breathtaking scenery in the middle of the Himalayas half way between Tibet and the plains of India.
3. Give yourself time to get used to 10,000 ft. This is high - twice as high as Denver and you will be going another 5,000 ft past that. Auli, a ski resort of sorts is a few hours before Gobindghat and a great place to stop for at least two days before going on to the trek
4. The roads are downright scary and do not attempt to drive here. Leave the driving to a middle-aged "hill driver" who knows the roads well and is slightly deaf to boot: deaf to any request to drive faster. The Tourist buses are a reasonable choice. There are no barriers on the precipice side of the road. Note that when you look out of the bus window you may not see the road at all - you will be that close to the edge. There are frequent landslides duing the Monsoons; you can be stuck for a day or two as the road is cleared.
On the other hand, you will be rewarded with a trip of a lifetime and unbeleivably spectacular scenery. In addition, you will be partaking a communion as well; one that you will share with your fellow travellers - pilgrims. Pulled by a deep faith, or fulfilling a promise made long ago, the pilgrims make their way up the mountain in rubber sandals as they whisper Sikh prayers of praise to the almightly; You will find yourself inspired by their faith.
[edit] Valley of Flowers
About 3 km from Gobinddham is the 5 km long Valley of Flowers. The Indian Government has declared this valley as a national area and all activities are now carefully regulated to preserve this valley in its pristine shape. The best months are July and August, during the monsoons. Note that during these same months, the Valley can be closed to visitors if the weather is totally inclement.
The trek to this valley is relatively easy and provides a recommended breather for a day of rest after the long trek from Gobindgaht and before the rigorous climb to Hemkund Sahib.
[edit] See also
[edit] Links
[edit] References
- Pilgrimage to Hemkunt/text by Jaswant Singh Neki. Photographs by Sondeep Shankar. New Delhi, UBSPD, 2002, ISBN 81-7476-375-9.
