Heaphy Track
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The Heaphy Track is a popular tramping track in the north west of the South Island of New Zealand. It is located within the Kahurangi National Park and classified as one of New Zealand's 10 Great Walks by the Department of Conservation. Named after Charles Heaphy, the track is 82km long and is usually walked in four or five days.
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[edit] History
Māori tribes are known to have settled along the lower course of the Heaphy River as early as in the 16th century. Proofs have been found that the area crossed by today's Heaphy Track had been explored in these ancient times by Māoris seeking greenstone (pounamu) in the Gouland Downs sector.
The first visit of the area by persons whose names were recorded took place in 1846, when Charles Heaphy, Thomas Brunner and their Māori guide Kehu explored the coastal sector of the track.
The first recorded crossing of the whole range approximately along today's path took place in 1859, by a European gold miner named Aldrige; another visit is recorded in 1860, by James MacKay and John Clark.
In the following years of goldrush, the area was extensively visited for gold, and the track was definitely laid out by various prospectors and surveyors, among which JB Saxon in 1888.
But there was no gold to be found in the sector. After thirty years prospecting came to an end and the track was virtually forgotten after 1900, becoming overgrown and seldom used except by an occasional hunter.
The creation of the North-west Nelson Forest Park in 1965, that was to become Kahurangi National Park in 1996, led to the rediscovery and improvement of the track, which is now trekked by thousands of tourists every year.
[edit] Conservation debate
The Heaphy Track has seen major campaigns to save it from attempts to road the area. The famed coastal strip with its delightful nikau palm groves was particularly at risk with any road construction. Even with simple track construction at Crayfish Point the overall effect was to see major slips carry the groves into the sea.
Up until the 1980s the threats to the track were real - the local population and councils largely supported roading in the belief that a "tourist circuit" of the South Island would increase the access and popularity of the area. The track proponents argued the damage could never be justified and that the popularity would come more in the form of people being drawn to the area for days rather than those who would drive through and use "comfort stops".
The campaign to "save" the Track and the popular support the conservation effort gathered over many years became pivotal in changing the attitude of the authorities to environmental matters. The New Zealand Government instigated many changes to curb unnecessary environmental destruction.
Following the major campaigns track use grew substantially. Of more recent times track use has moderated to a point where it now forms an integral part of the great New Zealand walking experience.
As the popularity increased more resources were thrown at track maintenance and facilities. Today, the track is well defined and serviced and capable of being walked by a wide age group.
It is, without doubt, one of New Zealand's finest tracks but, as in all back country experiences it should never be approached in an unplanned fashion.
[edit] Landscape along the path
The Heaphy track is renowned for the variety of landscapes crossed : every 20 km section is significantly different from the previous one.
Walking the path east to west, the hiker will begin his journey through a forest where beeches (Nothofagus) are dominant. Some zigzags will bring you to the highest point of the track, at 915 m, with good views to the surrounding mountains.
From there on, tussocks are to replace forests, and you are soon to enter the Gouland Downs, a large featureless area drained by many rivers, with swingbridges helping to cross them when they are in spate.
Now woody patches regain over tussock moors ; near Gouland Downs Hut, beeches covered by thick moss are reminiscent of the wettest forests of southern New Zealand.
After several kilometers of alternating tussock downs and bush, MacKay Hut is reached, with broad views reaching to the Tasman Sea. There begins a long descent through the bush. This time podocarps are dominant, among which impressive large rimu trees.
At the end of this descent, the Heaphy River valley is reached at Lewis Hut. You will follow the river course for 8 km of peaceful flat walk, crossing the Heaphy River and several affluents on long swingbridges, and discovering the nikau palm forest which is probably the most striking feature of the Heaphy Track.
At last you reach the seashore at Heaphy Hut, at the mouth of the Heaphy River. The last section is an exhilarating coastal walk, alterning sandy immaculate beaches beaten by the waves and forest sections, where nikau palms dominate.
[edit] External links
- Heaphy Track, New Zealand Great Walks, Department of Conservation.
- [1] March 2005 trip over 6 days
- [2] suggestions for the elderly and/or fat
