Haramosh Peak

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Haramosh Peak
Elevation	7,397 metres (24,270 feet)
Location	Pakistan
Range	Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, Karakoram
Coordinates	35°50′29″N, 74°53′52″E
First ascent	1958 by H. Roiss, S. Pauer, F. Mandl
Easiest route	rock/snow/ice climb

Haramosh Peak (also known as Haramosh or Peak 58) is a mountain located in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. Its height is also often given as 7,409m.

[edit] Location

Haramosh lies in the south-central region of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River, a little ways upstream of its confluence with the Gilgit River.

[edit] Climbing history

Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 by a Swiss team, and a German team investigated a northeastern route in 1955. In 1957, Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot and Ray Cuthbert, a team from Oxford University experienced repeated falls and misfortunes during a failed attempt, leading to the deaths of Jillot and Cuthbert. Streather and Emery survived. The latter suffered severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes. The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's "The Last Blue Mountain", ISBN 1-904466-30-3.

Haramosh was first climbed in 1958 by the Austrians H. Roiss, S. Pauer and F. Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy.

According to the Himalayan Index, there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).

[edit] Sources

High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks by Jill Neate, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
The Last Blue Mountain by Ralph Barker, Ripping Yarns.com. ISBN 1-904466-30-3.
Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
Himalayan Index