Fuji transfer

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The Fuji transfer (also known as the Fuji photo-transfer or Fuji image-transfer) is a process of photo-image transferring using Fuji instant pull-apart film type FP100c (also formerly marketed under Polaroid brand type 689) and similar in general standard photo application uses to the popular Polaroid brand pull-apart film type 669. Similar in only some respects to the common Polaroid transfer, the Fuji transfer process was pioneered and developed by photo-transfer artist Peter G. Balazsy in 1992-94.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Brief how-to

Using a camera, enlarger, slide printer or Day Lab expose Fuji FP100c film, develop by pulling the film from the holder. Wait about 20 seconds and quickly pull the film apart (no light), not letting the two sides (the picture and the negative) touch. Put the pulled apart negative face down on print-making artist's paper (no sizing) such as "Arches 88" or other similar material. Place rolling-type pressure over negative and roll hard with rubber brayer, usually not longer than 20–40 seconds. (In light) Peel the negative from the paper. Allow transfer to air dry for a minute or so, face up.

Review: After pulling Fuji film through developing rollers allow to develop for approximately 20 seconds. Next, peel negative away from positive side in DARKNESS. Place negative side face down onto a DRY receptor sheet paper such as "Arches 88" printmaking paper (do not wet receptor sheet as water will react with the Fuji developing gelatin and resultant transfered image will become dark black-green or greenish blotch.) After negative is placed face-down against a dry receptor sheet, resume work in light.

Using a brayer, roll evenly over negative using very firm pressure for 20-30 seconds or so. Then peel negative off receptor sheet. Image dyes will have been "transferred" onto receptor paper.

Because developing gelatin on Fuji negatives is very thin, firm pressure is required while rolling with the brayer to insure that dyes completely transfer onto receptor sheet.

It must be stressed that (unlike the Polaroid type 669 film negative) the Fuji FP100c negative is still sensitive to light while the dyes are "developing". So after pulling the film through the rollers and waiting 20 seconds to separate the sandwich, remember to have room lights OFF because at that critical point no light should strike the uncovered negative. The negative must then be placed face down onto the receptor sheet in total darkness or in very subdued light. If any light strikes the negative at this critical time, prior to being placed flat against the receptor sheet, the resultant "transferred" image will give a greenish-blue solarized appearance.

[edit] Tips

Printmaking paper (or watercolor paper) is generally a good paper to use for this process.
Keep in mind that you can use most absorbent paper surfaces.
Do not wet the paper as in typical Polaroid transfers. The paper should be dry.
May be artistically re-worked with colored pencils or any non-wet coloring method.
Bright light or sunlight (UV) can cause fading of transfer over time.