Free climbing

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In free solo climbing and bouldering, the climber carries nothing but a chalk bag. The dangers of climbing more than a couple of metres from the ground are evident.
In free solo climbing and bouldering, the climber carries nothing but a chalk bag. The dangers of climbing more than a couple of metres from the ground are evident.

Free climbing is a style of climbing in which the climber uses no artificial aids to make progress upwards, but just hands, feet and other parts of the body. Equipment is used only for protection against the consequences of a fall. The term is used in contrast to aid climbing, in which equipment is used directly to make progress. Styles of free climbing include traditional climbing, sport climbing, some forms of solo climbing and bouldering. Free soloing is a type of free climbing where no rope is used for protection and falls would be disastrous.

Free climbing "guidelines" from a U.S. perspective (Stonemaster's, et. al.): the adventure of exploring the unknown, living on the cutting edge of the possible and the impossible, and striving to go one better. In light of those ideals, the climbing community espoused a goal of avoiding behavior that sullies (makes less challenging in any way beyond personal improvement) a climbing route.

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[edit] "Rules" of free climbing

The goal is to climb the route first try on-sight as if the rope (if one is being used) is not there. Therefore, true free climbing prohibits:

  • Pre-climb inspections to learn more about the climb before starting (however one should always perform a safety inspection on any face that they are about to climb)
  • Hangdogging (resting on gear or the rope)
  • Pre-placing gear
  • Pulling or stepping on gear
  • Prior top roping of the lead climb

The above applies to all forms of climbing. Some rare people still apply all or most of the rules to sport climbing. The traditional climber only resorts to aid as a last resort to finish what he started. The aid climber strives to free climb as much of the route as possible.

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