Cunninghamhead Estate

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[edit] The History of Cunninghamhead Castle, House & Estate

The coat of arms of the Buchans of Cunninghamhead.

The previous name of the area was Woodhead, the name change to Cunninghamhead taking place before 1418, indeed a charter dated 1346 from King David II to Godfrey de Ross refers to him as being 'of Coyninghamheid' (MacDonald 2006). This Godfrey also held Corsehill Castle in Stewarton. Gordon's map of 1654 shows Cuningham Head and Rungham is marked on Moll's 1745 map. A castle or square tower stood here, referred to as a "strong old donjon" by Pont until demolished by John Snodgrass in 1747 when a new Mansion House was built. At the time of its construction it was held to be amongst the most elegant in the country, however by Robertson's time (1823) it had been altered and had lost much of its previous elegance. The arms of the Snodgrass family were a figure of justice, suspending a balance; Motto, - Discite Justinian. The Cunninghames had held these lands for several centuries before the Snodgrass family purchased them. In 1823 the Buchanans of Craigievairn held the estate and a Mr. Snodgrass Buchanan was the owner in 1838. The Kerr's followed them in turn (Dobie 1876) and the 1951 Statistical Account records the Misses Kerr as owning the estate. Middleton had been part of the estate. In around 1564 the name is given as Cunnygahamehead (Rollie 1980) and the laird also held Powkellie near Stewarton.

Of the many Cunninghame's who lived here Sir William and his brother Sir John are pre-eminent, the first being present in the Great Parliament of 1560 and as a great supporter of John Knox's reforms which saw the "end of popery" in Scotland as the de facto state religion. Sir John was a member of the General Assembly in 1565 which was "so obnoxious to the those of the old religion at that time" (Robertson 1823).

The 'Highland Host', consisting mainly of Catholic Highlanders, was brought into Ayrshire in 1678 by the Crown Authorities to prevent the conventicles or public meetings held by the Presbyterians. At Cunninghamhead, occupied at this time by Sir William Cunninghame, Highlanders lived at 'heck and manger' for a month; what meal was in the granary they could not eat, they destroyed; they used fire to open lockfast places; and the Colonel of the troop threatened a farmer upon whom he had quartered himself that, if he did not hand over his money, he would hang him in his own barn (Robertson 1908).

The possible 'cottage orne' beside the Annick Water, showing the high quality stonework.

Robertson relates that "They took free quarters; they robbed people on the high road; they knocked down and wounded those who complained; they stole, and wantonly destroyed, cattle; they subjected people to the torture of fire to discover to them where their money was hidden; they threatened to burn down houses if their demands were not at once complied with; besides free quarters they demanded money every day; they compelled even poor families to buy brandy and tobacco for them; they cut and wounded people from sheer devilment." The cost of all this amounted to £1,505 17s 0d. in Dreghorn and Pearceton (Sic) parish alone^[1].

Niel Snodgrass in 1755 had been bound as apprentice to study law, however he had his sight much injured by small-pox and was compelled to return to the country and devote himself to country pursuits. He became a great friend of Alexander, Earl of Eglinton and joined him in his pursuit of practical improvements in agriculture, such as crop rotations and fallow years. In 1773 he married Marian, daughter of James McNeil Esq. of Kilmorie. They had six children (Robertson 1823).

Aiton complimented Mr.Snowgrass, actually Snodgrass, for his zeal in pursuing agricultural improvements in 1811, following the example set by the Earls of Eglinton and Loudoun amongst others. The Lands of Cunninghamhead were valued at £330 in 1640. William Kerr Esq of Cunninghamhead was buried in Dreghorn Parish churchyard. The dilapidated mansion house was purchased by a developer after the Kerr sisters had died and the renovations were nearly complete when vandals broke in and the building was destroyed by fire. The fire was in the mid 1960's and the as the house was too badly damaged for restoration it was demolished.

The estate was at this point significantly run down, the main entrance road impassable even by foot. From 1964, works were carried to first use the estate as a chicken farm and later a caravan site. Recently the estate has seen further works removing much of the unique trees and character that was left as part of the walled garden to a residential caravan park exclusively for the retired and semi-retired.

[edit] The Cottage Ornee

An unusual building of some antiquity stands as a substantial ruin beside the river in the holm on the left hand side looking downstream. A path through the woods connects the site to the stables and to the location of the old Mansion House. This building's remains are constructed of sizeable river boulders and well worked and carved freestone or sandstone. It had a large window and door facing onto the holm, whilst the wall facing the river has largely collapsed and may have had two large windows in it. The door has been carefully blocked up some time ago and the 'holm' facing window may have been made into an entrance. The relatively small size of the structure suggests a social purpose, such as a type of 'Summer House' or 'Cottage orne' from the early development of the estate, circa 1747. It's last occupant was a Mackay, who was a poet or writer of some sort. A Charles Mackay was editor of the Glasgow Argus for four years from 1844, contributing articles and poetry to the Daily News. He returned to London and joined the London Illustrated News. Another more obscure Charles Mackay, an actor and writer, belongs to the early 18th. century (Ward 2006).

The possible 'cottage orne' beside the Annick Water showing the 'river boulders' used in its construction.

Aiton gives the following description of a building in the Eglinton Estate which may have inspired the construction of this summer house if this is what it is, saying that "Near to the gardens, in a remote corner, more than half encircled by the river, a remarkably handsome cottage has been reared, and furnished, under the direction of Lady Jean Montgomery, who has contrived to unite neatness and simplicity, with great taste, in the construction of this enchanting hut. That amiable lady, spends occasionally, some part of her leisure hours, about this delightful cottage: viewing the beauties, and contemplating the operations of nature, in the foliage of leaves, blowing of flowers, and maturation of fruits; with other rational entertainments, which her enlightened mind is capable of enjoying."Lady Jane Hamilton, the Earl's Aunt built or extended 'Lady Jane's Cottage' which lay beside the Lugton Water. She used this building to teach domestic economy to peasant girls. This may represent a later use of Lady Jean's cottage^[2].

Ruins of other vernacular buildings, locally known as 'Dark Path Cottages' (Forrest 2006) are also to be found as total ruins in the woods off to the right hand side of the path leading up to the stable. They were in perfect condition as late as WWII (Forrest 2006). Quarry Holm, beside the old railway embankment, has the foundations of some old buildings which appear to have been re-used at a later stage in their existence before finally becoming ruins.

[edit] The Stables

Staddle stones minus their tops at the Stables, Cunninghamhead

A map of the area in 1897.

The Stables are partially maintained and occupied, but years of neglect are slowly showing through. The main stable building dates from 1820 and the remainder presumably dates from the 1740's. While the front looks impressive, much of the buildings are ruins. A number of small 'cothouses' were located at the bottom of the courtyard, the external doors have long been blocked up. At the front of the stables are three Staddle Stones, missing their tops. Staddle Stones were originally used to raise tithe barns and granaries off the ground. This kept the produce from spoilage by damp, and also prevented mice and other vermin from interfering with it, as they couldn't climb past the staddle stone caps. These Cunninghamhead staddle stones are rare survivors. The doocot or dovecot that was above the entrance was a feature of estates, as the right to build a doocot was strictly limited to the major landowners initially, and only later were small freeholders permitted to build them; at a more recent date tenants could sometimes gain permission from their landlord to build doocots for the meat or to add a picturesque feature to their properties (Peters 2003). The current owners have done much damage to the fabric of the building, and surroundings, through neglect. The exquisite gardens haven't been maintained and the dovecote originally above the entrance removed. Stonework where it's failed has been replaced by wooden frontage and further preventative maintenance not carried out. The stables are currently for sale, with offers being sought for over £ 450,000. Any future owner would have to undertake renovation work soon otherwise sections of the building will be in total ruin.

[edit] The Natural History of the Estate

The woods on the opposite side of the river from the old mansion house are unusually rich in plantlife, suggesting that they are long established and not just plantations on previously cleared land as is often the case elsewhere. The woods containing, amongst others, plants such as Male Shield Fern, Lady Fern, Tuberous Comfrey, Tussock Grass, Bluebells, Dog's Mercury, Opposite-Leaved Golden Saxifrage, Woodrush, Sanicle, Enchanter's Nightshade and Wood Sorrel. Agrimony is another unusual find, growing in a riparian position on the Annick Water bank, together with wild Mint, just upstream of the old railway viaduct previously mentioned.

[edit] See Also

• Cunninghamhead
• Lambroughton
• Chapeltoun
• Corsehill
• Staddle stones
• The History of Cunninghamhead
• Scottish Rural Life, History Dictionary
• Cunninghamhead railway station
• Auchenharvie Castle
• Thorntoun Estate

[edit] References

• Aiton, William (1811). General View of the Agriculture of the County of Ayr. Pub. Glasgow. p.61.
• Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont 1604-1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow.
• Forrest, Nancy (2006). Oral Communications to Roger S.Ll.Griffith.
• MacDonald, Ian (2006). Oral Communications to Roger S.Ll.Griffith.
• Peters, J.E.C. (2003). Discovering Traditional Farm Buildings. Shire Books. ISBN 0-85263-556-7.
• Robertson, George (1823). A Genealogical Account of the Principal Families in Ayrshire. Pub. A.Constable, Irvine.
• Robertson, William (1908). Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families. Vols. 1 & 2. Pub. Ayr.
• Rollie, James (1980). The invasion of Ayrshire. A Background to the County Families. Pub. Famedram. P.83.
• Ward, John (2006). Oral Communications to Roger S.Ll.Griffith.