Cheesesteak

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Cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz
Cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz

The cheesesteak, known outside the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania area as the Philadelphia cheesesteak, Philly cheesesteak, or steak and cheese is a sandwich principally of thinly sliced pieces of steak and melted cheese on a long roll. A cheesesteak without cheese is locally called a steak sandwich, or a Philly Steak in other parts of the country.

The cheesesteak is a comfort food for natives of the Philadelphia region. It was invented in the city in 1930 and is considered to be a city icon along with other foods such as Tastykakes, water ice, the Philadelphia soft pretzel and scrapple.

Contents

[edit] Ingredients and preparation

Steak is typically top round, although other types are often used. In one form of preparation, the steak is cut very thin so that it is almost translucent. The steak is placed on a lightly oiled griddle at medium temperature. The slices are quickly browned and then scrambled into smaller pieces with a flat spatula. Often, the steak is placed on top of already slightly fried onions to prevent the steak from becoming over-cooked. Thicker slices are also sometimes used (as are chunks of frozen thin slices which are defrosted as they are cooked). Some locations with large volumes will grill the steak in a large pile, chopping and flipping the steak with a large metal spatula until cooked to a light brown. The thicker pieces of steak, due to their need to be cooked more thoroughly, will be set in a single layer on the grill and flipped until brown.

Cheese can be added as the last stage of grilling, placed on the bread before the meat is added, or ladled on top of the sandwich as the last step. For adding cheese while grilling, the steak is shaped on the grill so that the roll could cover it, the cheese is laid on top and allowed to melt for a minute, then the roll is placed over the steak and the spatula is used to scoop the entire contents into the roll. In another method, the cheese is placed along the inner sides of the sliced roll and is either melted beforehand by a warmer or is melted by the heat of the freshly cooked steak. Lastly, pre-melted cheese or Cheez Whiz can be ladled on top of the sandwich.

The sandwich is served in a long roll, typically a 6-inch (15 cm) or 12-inch (30 cm) loaf of Italian bread (also known in Philly as a hoagie roll). The bread is sliced lengthwise to form a cradle, similar to a hot dog bun.

In the Philadelphia area, cheesesteaks are often made with rolls from the Philadelphia-based Amoroso's Baking Company, commonly known as Amoroso Rolls. (Pat's rolls are made by the Vilotti-Pisanelli bakery.[1]) Locals believe there is something about "Schuylkill Punch", the nickname for Philadelphia's drinking water, that, by its alkalinity, makes the rolls distinctively flaky and airy.

A cheesesteak may include other optional ingredients such as grilled onions, sautéed green peppers, and mushrooms. Some menus include hot sauce, ketchup, or pizza sauce (a Pizza Steak, often with mozzarella as the cheese).

[edit] Cheese

White American cheese, Provolone, and Cheez Whiz are the most frequently used cheeses and are available for steaks at most places. Swiss, cheddar, and mozzarella are available at a few locations; locals, however, will often say that a "true" Philadelphia cheesesteak is never made with Swiss cheese.

Cheez Whiz, first marketed in 1952, was not yet available for the original 1930 version, but it has come to achieve some popularity.

A 1986 New York Times article called Cheez Whiz "the sine qua non of cheesesteak connoisseurs."[2] In a 1985 interview, Frank Olivieri (Pat Olivieri's nephew) said that he uses "the processed cheese spread familiar to millions of parents who prize speed and ease in fixing the children's lunch for the same reason, because it is fast."[3] He went on to say that "American cheese takes longer to melt" and made clear his preference for Cheez Whiz over other unnamed, fast-melting cheese spreads.

A recipe published by Pat's King of Steaks says, with regard to cheese, "We recommend Cheez Whiz®; American or Provolone works fine."[4] The proprietor of Geno's considers provolone or American to be authentic, but a food writer notes the "ascendancy of Whiz," which is "nearly synonymous with cheesesteak" and observes that "there isn't a decent steak place in Philadelphia that doesn't offer it, including Geno's."[1] An article in Fortune says that after Pat's introduced it, Cheese Whiz became "the topping of choice."[5]

[edit] American

American cheese, with its mild flavor and medium consistency, is another favorite on cheesesteaks. Some places pre-melt the American cheese to achieve a Cheez Whiz-like consistency, while others just put freshly cut slices over the meat, letting it slightly melt under the heat.

[edit] Provolone

Provolone of the mild, unaged variety is also almost universally offered. However, a Los Angeles reporter claimed that "provolone is the cheesesteak cheese, preferably an extra-sharp provolone with a distinctly savage bite. A cheesesteak is supposed to hurt, and it takes more than those fried dry Japanese chilies that Pat’s offers as a condiment...."[6].

[edit] Other cheese

Other varieties of cheese may be offered—a 1986 New York Times article mentioned a Philadelphia establishment that serves "mesquite-grilled cheese steak with Jarlsberg cheese"[2]—but traditionalists scorn such modes of preparation. A few establishments have begun offering the new low-fat cheeses as health-conscious alternatives.

Some vendors offer plain cheddar as well, though these sandwiches are sometimes called "Cheesy Beef" sandwiches rather than "cheesesteaks." Outside of Philadelphia, Swiss cheese is offered as a topping, often combined with mushrooms and fried onions.

A cheesesteak topped with Swiss cheese is mockingly referred to as a "Kerry" in Philadelphia, referring to Democratic Presidential candidate John Kerry requesting Swiss cheese on a cheesesteak from Pat's during a visit to Philadelphia.

[edit] Variations

In some parts of Pennsylvania, the most popular steak sandwiches are made with chopped or very thin slices of beef that are browned and then topped with, or simmered in, a tomato sauce, served in a crusty hoagie roll, with or without cheese, grilled onions and hot or mild peppers. In the same region, are also some canned sauces made specifically for steak sandwiches.


Numerous variations on the basic cheesesteak theme are offered by various vendors.

[edit] Pizza Steak

A steak sandwich topped with pizza sauce and sliced or crumbled mozzarella constitutes a pizza steak, which is often placed briefly in a pizza oven or under a broiler to melt and lightly brown the cheese. Some establishments offer sliced pepperoni as an optional topping, to make a pepperoni pizza steak.[2][3]

[edit] Cheesesteak Hoagie

A marriage of the cheesesteak with Philadelphia's other signature sandwich, the hoagie. Generally a cheesesteak hoagie is a cheesesteak with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, pickles and American or Provolone cheese.[4]

[edit] Chicken Cheesesteak

A recent popular variation is the chicken cheesesteak, which uses thinly sliced chicken, also sautéed on a griddle.[5]

[edit] Buffalo Chicken Cheesesteak

An even more recent variation is the Buffalo Chicken Cheesesteak, which is simply a chicken cheesesteak with Buffalo wings sauce and Bleu Cheese.[6]

[edit] Western Cheesesteak

A Western Cheesesteak features barbecue sauce and, typically, fresh jalapeño or bell peppers.[7]

[edit] The $100 Cheesesteak

At the high end, in what started as a marketing ploy by Stephen Starr's Barclay Prime steakhouse but has turned out to be a popular menu item is a $100 cheesesteak sandwich made with Kobe beef (technically, Wagyu beef), seared foie gras, and black truffle shavings, accompanied by a glass of champagne.

[edit] History

Philadelphian Pat Olivieri claims to have invented the cheesesteak by serving chopped-up steak on hoagie rolls. Another source lists him as a co-creator with his brother Harry Olivieri. [8] They began selling the concoctions at their hot dog stand near south Philadelphia's Italian Market. They became so popular he opened up his own cheesesteak restaurant in 1930.[9] This restaurant still operates today as Pat's King of Steaks (v.i.).

Pat's website calls the preparation a "steak sandwich" (not a "cheesesteak") and says that "as the years passed, both employees and customers alike demanded change ... cheese was added."[7] Joe Vento of Geno's(v.i.) claims that he was the first to add cheese.[5]

In 1952 they added Cheese Whiz to their sandwich ingredients. The walls of their restaurant are lined with photographs of celebrities who ate there, including President Bill Clinton, Jimmy Durante, Joey Bishop, Rodney Dangerfield, Connie Stevens, Henry Winkler, John McCain, the Bee Gees and Lou Rawls.

[edit] Cultural Etiquette

At some shops in South Philadelphia dedicated to selling cheesesteaks, they tell the world that there is a defined protocol for ordering a cheesesteak, consisting of the desired cheese and whether fried onions will ("wit") or will not ("witout") be added. A common order in South Philly is "Whiz, wit", meaning a cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz and fried onions. "Wit" (or "wid") is an approximation of the South Philadelphian pronunciation of "with," which is how the word is actually spelled on some menus. For example, "Give me a provolone wit," is an order for a cheesesteak with provolone cheese and fried onions on top.[8] Orders for additional toppings, such as sautéed mushrooms or peppers, are usually added at the end, e.g. "I'd like an American witout and peppers."

[edit] Cheesy politics

In the 2004 presidential campaign, candidate John Kerry, on a visit to Pat's Steaks in South Philadelphia, committed the faux pas of ordering a cheesesteak with Swiss cheese. According to the Philadelphia Daily News, "reporters snickered," because "in Philadelphia, ordering Swiss on a cheesesteak is like rooting for Dallas at an Eagles game. It isn't just politically incorrect; it could get you a poke in the nose."[9] His opponent George W. Bush, on the other hand, ordered “Whiz wit” like a local (albeit after Kerry had drawn negative publicity for the gaffe).[10]

In 2005, Massachusetts Governor Mitt Romney turned up his nose at a cheesesteak wagered by Pennsylvania Governor Ed Rendell in the traditional pre-Super Bowl bet between leaders of the states represented in the game. Rendell later told reporters, "He said the cheesesteak had no nutritional value." [11]

[edit] Famous locations

Among the many Philadelphia cheesesteak eateries, Pat's and Geno's Steaks are the best known (and most publicized). The famous rivals are located across the street from each other on 9th Street and Passyunk Avenue in South Philadelphia.

The hub of the cheesesteak universe is a South Philadelphia triangle where Pat's King of Steaks (est. 1930), birthplace of the cheesesteak, stands in an eternal face-off with across-the-street rival Geno's Steaks (est. 1966).[1]

According to a 2003 article in Fortune, the rival proprietors, Joey Vento and Frank Olivieri, hate each other:

Vento uses words like "arrogant" and "idiot" to describe his opponent, and dismisses Pat's steaks. (So why do so many people eat them? "You can acquire a taste for bad food," he says.) Olivieri, who went to a Quaker high school, refuses to be drawn into a shouting match. "I don't even call him a competitor," he sniffs.[5]

Both Pat's and Geno's are open 24 hours a day. The establishments can frequently be seen packed with long lines of hungry people, even during the late hours of the night especially following local sports events, or after Philadelphia bars close at 2:00am.

Many Philadelphians proclaim allegiance to a particular steak shop as the maker of the best cheesesteak, based on the quality of the ingredients, the method of preparation, and other reasons not necessarily related to the sandwich itself. Some native Philadelphians consider Pat's and Geno's "tourist steaks," where "virgin" cheesesteak eaters have their first memorable cheesesteak experience. Many consider a local neighborhood steakshop to be the "best" in town even if it is little-known. There is much lively debate to be had in Philadelphia over what makes one establishment's cheesesteak better than another's. Street vendors also prepare and sell cheesesteaks from trucks and carts in and around the city, especially on the larger college campuses.

For other famous cheesesteak restaurants, see "Best of Philly" winners below. As Patti LaBelle notes, "when we were growing up, Llona and I always went to the same little shop to get ours—this twenty-four-hour hole-in-the-wall that made the best ones in Philly."[12]

[edit] Best of Philly award winners

The following establishments in Philadelphia have won Best of Philly awards from Philadelphia magazine for Best Cheesesteak.

[edit] Cheesesteaks elsewhere

In other parts of North America, many sandwich shops offer their own versions of the cheesesteak, and some are even dedicated to serving only cheesesteaks. Regionally, the name may vary; in parts of New England, for example, the sandwich is called a "steak and cheese".

Some native Philadelphians maintain that places outside the immediate area are not able to produce an authentic Philadelphia cheesesteak. For example, the meat is often prepared incorrectly (sliced from ground or flaked beef, rather than whole or molded), or the traditional toppings are not offered.[21]

Another missing element in most cheesesteaks outside Philadelphia is the use of Amoroso's rolls, which are almost exclusively used in Philadelphia (with Pat's being an exception).[1] There are, however, some restaurants outside of Philadelphia that have Amoroso rolls or dough shipped to them.[22]

[edit] See also

[edit] References

  1. ^ a b c d John Hodgman (2002). Philly Mignon. Men's Journal. Retrieved on 2006-06-03. Pat's: uses Vilotti-Pisanelli rolls --in late 2005, Pat's Steaks changed their rolls from Amoroso to Liscio's Bakery, of Glassboro, New Jersey, Pat's proprietor advocates Whiz, uses thin-sliced ribeye "cow meat" [sic]. Geno's: uses Amoroso rolls, proprietor advocates American or provolone, uses ribeye steer. In general, "the real controversy is chopped versus nonchopped." Re bread, quotes Pat's proprietor: "There's something about the bread," says Junior. "It's the altitude and the humidity of this area, and the dirty water from the Schuylkill River."
  2. ^ a b The New York Times, May 21, 1986, p. C6 "The Cheese Steak: An Original"
  3. ^ The New York Times, November 16, 1985, p. 10: "About Philadelphia: Where Cheesesteaks are King, One Family Has Assumed the Crown"
  4. ^ The Original Pat's King of Steaks Philadelphia Cheese Steak recipe. patskingofsteaks.com. Retrieved on May 22, 2006.
  5. ^ a b c David Whitford (2003-06-01). Sandwich Superheroes Philadelphia's cheese-steak kings have fought for more than 30 years. Now they can't imagine life without each other.. Fortune: Small Business. Retrieved on 2006-06-09.
  6. ^ LA Weekly - Ask Mr. Gold, September 2, 2004 Retrieved February 26, 2007
  7. ^ The History of Pat's King of Steaks. Pat's King of Steaks. Retrieved on 2006-06-09.
  8. ^ I. M. Hungry, "How to order a steak", retrieved on 12 August 2006.
  9. ^ Philadelphia Daily News story on the Kerry contretemps
  10. ^ [1] Economist "Whiz wit?" Article
  11. ^ Mass. Governor Disrespects The Cheesesteak. NBC10 (2005). Retrieved on May 22, 2006.
  12. ^ LaBelle, Patti (2003). Patti Labelle's Lite Cuisine: Over 100 Dishes with To-Die-For Taste Made with To-Die-For Recipes. Gotham. ISBN 1-59240-004-3.  p. 25
  13. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2006
  14. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2005; Cheesesteaks; Philadelphia
  15. ^ Best of Philly 2003
  16. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2002
  17. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2002
  18. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2001
  19. ^ Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 2000
  20. ^ [Philadelphia Magazine: Best of Philly 1997]
  21. ^ Fischer, John. "The Perfect Philly Cheesesteak". philadelphia.about.com. Retrieved on 2006-04-27.
  22. ^ "Taste of Philly - Home of the Real Philly Cheesesteak". www.tasteofphilly.biz. Retrieved on 2006-08-10.

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