Carding

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For other senses of this word, see carding (disambiguation).

Carding is the processing of brushing raw or washed fibers to prepare them as textiles. A large variety of fibers can be carded, anything from dog hair, to llama, to soy silk (a fiber made from soy beans). Cotton, wool and bast are probably the most common fibers to be carded. Not all fibers are carded; Flax, for example, is threshed.

Carding can also be used to create mixes of different fibers, or different colors. Carding ensures that the fiber is thinned out and evenly distributed along a roll to facilitate spinning. The two main ways to card fibers are by hand, and by machine.

Contents 1 Hand carding 2 Machine carding 3 History 4 General information 5 See also 6 References 7 External links

[edit] Hand carding

Hand carders look similar to dog brushes. They are used two at a time to brush the wool between them until all the fibers in a bunch align in the same direction more or less. Carding is an activity done sitting down outside or over a drop cloth, depending on the wool's cleanliness. Carders hold a carder in each hand and place the carder in their non-dominant hand (left for most people) and on their leg. They place a small amount of fiber on the carder on the leg and pull the other carder through while taking care to catch some of the fibers, thus cleaning and aligning the fibers. Catching too many fibers makes it too hard to pull the carders apart. This process will transfer small amounts of the wool to the other carder. Once all the wool has transferred, carders repeat this process until all the fibers are in line and the fiber is satisfactorily clean of debris. They then roll up their carded wool into a neat rolag.

Hand carders come in a wide variety of sizes, from ones two by two inches to ones four by eight inches. The small ones are called flick carders, and are used just to flick the ends of a lock of hair, or to tease out some strands for spinning off of. The density of the teeth, and the shape of the carders also varies. For finely carded rolags, one uses carders with more teeth. The type of fiber, its length, weight and characteristics, can also determine how many teeth are wanted per inch on the carders. Hand carders can be either flat backed or curved- this is a matter of personal preference.

[edit] Machine carding

Machine carding is done on a device called a drum carder. These devices vary in size from the one that easily fits on the kitchen table, to the carder that takes up a full room [1]. The carders used currently in woolen mills differ very little from machines used twenty to fifty years ago, and in some cases the machines are from that era. For wool, and wool-like fibers (such as llama, alpaca, goat, etc.) fibers are fed onto a series of rollers. depending on the size of the carder, the number of rollers differs. The ones that fit on the kitchen table typically have two drums, or rollers. One is small, and used to catch the fibers and feed them in. The other drum takes the fibers from the first drum, and, in the process of transferring them from one drum to another, the fibers are straightened out and told to be orderly. The picture above is a small drum carder. A carder that takes up a full room works very similarly, the main difference being that the fiber goes through many more drums, which normally get finer as the fiber progresses.

When the fiber comes off the drum, it is in the form of a bat, or a flat, orderly mass of fibers. If a small drum carder is being used, the bat is the length of the circumference of the big drum, and is often the finished product. A big drum carder though, will then take that bat and turn it into roving, by stretching it thinner and thinner, until it is the desired thickness (often rovings are the thickness of a wrist). (A rolag differs from a roving ([2] or [3]) because it is not a continuous strand, and because the fibers end up going across instead of along the strand.) Cotton fibers are fed into the machine, picked up and brushed onto flats when carded.

Some hand-spinners have a small drum carder at home especially for the purpose of mixing together the different colored fiber that they buy already carded.

[edit] History

In 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented the hand driven carding machine. A coat of wire slips were placed around a card which was then wrapped around a cylinder. Daniel Bourn obtained a similar patent in the same year, and probably used it in his spinning mill at Leominster, but this burnt down in 1754.^[1] The invention was later developed and improved by Richard Arkwright and Samuel Crompton. Arkwright's second patent (of 1775) for his water frame, included a carding machine, but this patent was subsequently declared invalid, because it lacked originality.^[2]

From the 1780s, the carding machines were set up in mills in the north of England and mid Wales. The first in Wales was in a factory at Dolobran near Meifod in 1789. These carding mills produced yarn particularly for the Welsh flannel industry.^[3]

[edit] General information

This product (rovings and rolags) can be used for spinning.

Carding of wool can either be done "in the grease" or not, depending on the type of machine and on the spinner's preference. "In the grease" means that the lanolin that naturally comes with the wool has not been washed out, leaving the wool with a slightly greasy feel. The large drum carders do not tend to get along well with lanolin, so most woolen mills wash the wool before carding. Handcarders (and small drum carders too, though the directions may not recommend it) can be used to card lanolin rich wool. A major benefit of working with the lanolin still in the wool is that it leaves you with soft hands.

[edit] See also

• Carding (torture), a method of torture using wool-combs

[edit] References

1. ^ A. P. Wadsworth and J. de L. Mann, The Cotton Industry and Industrial Lancashire (Manchester University Press 1931), 419-448.
2. ^ R. S. Fitton and A. P. Wadsworth, The Strutts and the Arkwrights 1758-1830: a Study in the Early Factory System (Manchester Univ. Pr. 1958), 65-80.
3. ^ J. Geraint Jenkins, The Welsh Woollen Industry (Cardiff 1969), 33-4.

[edit] External links

• Carding Fiber - Directions on hand-carding, complete with numerous pictures.
• How To Use Hand Carders - Includes video tutorials.