Brittany

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Brittany has an expansive coastline
Brittany has an expansive coastline
Historical province of Brittany
Historical province of Brittany
Flag of Brittany (Gwenn-ha-du)
Flag of Brittany (Gwenn-ha-du)

Brittany (Breton: Breizh pronounced /bʁejs/; French: Bretagne, pronounced /bʁətaɲ/ ; Gallo: Bertaèyn) is a former independent kingdom and duchy, and a province of France. Brittany is one of the six Celtic Nations. It is also, more generally, the name of the cultural area whose limits correspond to the old province and independent duchy. It was at one time called Lesser Britain

The historical province of Brittany was split between two modern-day régions of France. 80% of Brittany has become the région of Bretagne, while the remaining 20% of Brittany (Loire-Atlantique département with its préfecture Nantes, one of the former capitals of the duchy of Brittany) has been grouped with other historical provinces (Anjou, Maine, and so on) to create the région of Pays-de-la-Loire (that is "lands of the Loire"). For the reasons behind the splitting-up of Brittany, and the current debate around a reunification, see the Bretagne article.

Brittany occupies a large peninsula in the northwest of France, lying between the English Channel to the north and the Bay of Biscay to the south. Its land area is 34,034 km² (13,137 sq. mi). The region is divided into five departments: to the west is Finistere, Côtes-d'Armor lies to the North, Ille-et-Vilaine is in the north-east, Loire-Atlantique is to the south-east and Morbihan lies in the middle.

In January 2005 the population of Brittany was estimated at 4,271,000 inhabitants. 72% of these live in the Bretagne région, while 28% of these live in the Pays-de-la-Loire région. At the 1999 census, the largest metropolitan areas were Naoned/Nantes (711,120 inhabitants), Roazhon/Rennes (521,188 inhabitants), and Brest (303,484 inhabitants).

Contents

[edit] History

See: History of Brittany.

[edit] Sights

Brittany is famous for its megalithic monuments, which are scattered over the peninsula, the largest alignments are near Karnag/Carnac. The purpose of these monuments is still unknown, and many local people are reluctant to entertain speculation on the subject. The words dolmen (from "daol" table and "maen" stone) and menhir (from "maen" stone and "hir" high) come from the Breton language, even though they are hardly used in Breton.

Brittany is also known for its calvaries, elaborately carved sculptures of crucifixion scenes, to be found in churchyards of villages and small towns, especially in Western Brittany.

Significant urban centres include:

The walled city of Saint-Malo was a former stronghold of corsaires
The walled city of Saint-Malo was a former stronghold of corsaires

The walled city of Saint-Malo (Sant-Maloù), a popular tourist attraction, is also an important port linking Brittany with England and the Channel Islands. It also was the birthplace of the acclaimed author Chateaubriand and explorer Jacques Cartier. The town of Roscoff (Rosko) is served by ferry links with England and Ireland.

The island of Ushant (Breton: Enez Eusa, French: Ouessant) is the north-westernmost point of Brittany and France, and marks the entrance of the English Channel. Other islands off the coast of Brittany include:

Following the successful example of the Cornish-Viking alliance in 722 at the Battle of Hehil (modern day Padstow) which helped stop for a time the Anglo-Saxon conquest of Cornwall, the Bretons made friendly overtures to the Danish Vikings to help contain Frankish expansionist ideas, and in 865 AD the Vikings and Bretons united as one to defeat a Frankish army at the Battle of Brissarthe, near modern day Le Mans. Two Frankish kings, Robert and Ranulph were killed by the Vikings, and the Franks were forced to acknowledge Brittany's independence from the Frankish kingdoms. As with Cornwall in 722, the Vikings tactically helped their Breton allies by making devasting pillaging raids on the Frankish kingdoms.

[edit] Language

Bilingual road signs can be seen in traditional Breton-speaking areas
Bilingual road signs can be seen in traditional Breton-speaking areas
Traditional coat of arms
Traditional coat of arms

French, the only official language of the French Republic, is today spoken throughout Brittany. The two regional languages have no official status with regards to the state, although they are supported by the regional authorities within the strict constitutional limits: Breton, strongest in the west but to be seen all over Brittany, is a Celtic language most closely related to Cornish (Breton has in fact slightly more in common with Cornish than Welsh), and Gallo, which is spoken in the east, is one of the Oïl languages.

From the very beginning of its history and despite the end of the independence of Brittany, Breton remained the language of the entire population of western Brittany, if not bishops and French administrators or officers. French laws and economic pressure led people to abandon their language to the one of the ruler, but until the 1960s, Breton was spoken and understood by the majority of the western inhabitants. Since the beginning of the 20th century, it has been very efficiently fought by the French administration and educational system ("It is forbidden to spit on the ground and to speak Breton") in the process of promoting French as the sole language of the country.

Breton was traditionally spoken in the west (the "Breizh-Izel" or "Basse-Bretagne"), and Gallo in the east (the "pays Gallo" or "Haute-Bretagne"). The dividing line stretched from Plouha on the north coast to a point to the south-east of Vannes. French had, however, long been the main language of the towns. The Breton-speaking area formerly covered territory much further east than its current distribution.

In the Middle Ages, Gallo expanded into formerly Breton-speaking areas. Now restricted to a much reduced territory in the east of Brittany, Gallo finds itself under pressure from the dominant Francophone culture. It is also felt by some to be threatened by the Breton language revival which is gaining ground in territories that were never part of the main Breton-speaking area.

Privately funded Diwan ("Seed") schools, where classes are taught in Breton by the immersion method, play an important part in the revival of the Breton language. The issue of whether they should be funded by the State has long been, and remains, controversial. Some bilingual classes are also provided in ordinary schools.

Despite the resistance of French administration, bilingual (Breton and French) road signs may be seen in some areas, especially in the traditional Breton-speaking area. Signage in Gallo is much rarer.

A large influx of English-speaking immigrants and second-home owners in some villages sometimes adds to linguistic diversity.

[edit] Music

Main article: Music of Brittany

Some of the musicians for which Brittany is known are: the most famous, Alan Stivell, but also Denez Prigent, les frères Guichen, Manau, Carré Manchot, Ar Re Yaouank, Sonerien Du, Loened Fall, Yann Tiersen, etc.

[edit] Religion

Sculpted "calvaries" can be found in many villages
Sculpted "calvaries" can be found in many villages

The first Christian missionaries came to the region from Ireland and Great Britain. With more than 300 "saints" (only a few recognized by the Catholic Church), the region is strongly Catholic. Since the nineteenth century at least, Brittany has been known as one of the most devoutly Catholic regions in France, in contrast to many other more secularised areas. The proportion of students attending Catholic private schools is the highest in France. As in other Celtic regions, the legacy of Celtic Christianity has left a rich tradition of local saints and monastic communities, often commemorated in place names beginning Lan, Lam, Plou or Lok. The patron saint of Brittany is Santez Anna Saint Anne, the Virgin's mother. But the most famous saint is Saint Ivo of Kermartin ('saint Yves' in French, 'sant Erwan' in Breton), a 13th-century priest who devoted his life to the poor.

Once a year, believers go on a "pardon", the saint's feast day of the parish. It often begins with a procession followed by a mass in honour of the saint. There is always a pagan side, with some food and craft stalls. The three most famous pardons are:

  • from Sainte-Anne d'Auray/Santez-Anna-Wened, where a poor farmer in the 17th century assured the saint give him the order to build a chapel in her honour.
  • from Tréguier/Landreger, in honour of St Yves, the patron saint of the judges, advocates, and any profession involved in justice.
  • from Locronan/Lokorn, in honour of St Ronan, with a troménie (a procession, 12 km-long) and numerous people in traditional costume,

In Brittany, there is a very old pilgrimage called the Tro Breizh (tour of Brittany), where the pilgrims walk around Brittany from the grave of one founder saint to another. The seven founder saints of Brittany are:

  • St Pol Aurelian, at Saint-Pol-de-Leon/Kastell-Paol,
  • St Tudual (sant Tudwal), at Tréguier/Landreger,
  • St Brieuc, at Saint-Brieuc/S-Brieg,
  • St Malo, at Saint-Malo/S-Maloù,
  • St Samson of Dol, at Dol,
  • St Patern, at Vannes/Gwened
  • St Corentin (sant Kaourintin), at Quimper/Kemper

Historically, the pilgrimage was made in one go (a total distance of around 600 km). Nowadays, however, pilgrims complete the circuit over the course of several years. In 2002, the Tro-Breizh included a special pilgrimage to Wales, symbolically making the reverse journey of the Welshmen Sant Paol, Sant Brieg, and Sant Samzun. Whoever does not make the pilgrimage at least once in his lifetime will be condemned to make it after his death, advancing only by the length of his coffin each 7 year.

Some old pagan traditions and customs from the old Celtic religion have also been preserved in Brittany. The most powerful folk figure is the Ankou or the "Reaper of Death". He is a skeleton wrapped in a shroud with the Breton flat hat. He makes his journeys by night carrying an upturned scythe which he throws before him to reap his harvest. Sometimes he is on foot but mostly he travels in a cart, the Karrig an Ankou, drawn by two oxen and a lean horse. Two servants dressed in the same shroud and hat as the Ankou pile the dead into the cart, and to hear it creaking at night means you have little time left to live.

[edit] Gastronomy

Although some white wine is produced near the Loire, the traditional drinks of Brittany are:

  • cider (Breton: chistr) - Brittany is the second largest cider-producing region in France;
  • a sort of mead made from wild honey called chouchen;
  • an apple eau de vie called lambig.

Some beers are also now produced. Historically Brittany was a beer producing region, however, due to import of wine from other regions of France, beer drinking and production slowly came to an end in the early to mid 20th century. In the 1970s, due to a regional comeback, new beer breweries started to open. Around twenty breweries are now open. Whisky is also being produced, and there is a small handful of distilleries that produce excellent whiskies. Another recent drink is the kir Breton (crème de cassis and cider) which may be served as an apéritif.

Very thin, wide pancakes made from buckwheat flour are eaten with ham, eggs and other savoury fillings. They are usually called galettes (Breton galetes), except in the western parts of Brittany where they are called crêpes (Breton krampouezh). Thin crêpes made from wheat flour are eaten for dessert. Other pastries, such as kouign amann ("butter cake" in Breton) made from bread dough, butter and sugar, or far, a sort of sweet Yorkshire pudding, or clafoutis with prunes, are traditional.

Surrounded by the sea, Brittany offers a wide range of fresh sea food and fish, especially mussels and oysters. Among the sea food specialities is cotriade.

[edit] Climate

Since Brittany is on the west coast of France, it has a warm temperate climate. Rainfall occurs regularly - which has helped keep its countryside green and wooded - but sunny, cloudless days are also common.

In the summer months, Brittany can reach temperatures of about 30 degrees Celsius, but is still comfortable compared to parts of France south of the Loire. It generally has a moderate climate during both summer and winter, and rain is not uncomfortably common or rare.

The most popular summer resorts are on the south coast (La Baule, Belle Île, Gulf of Morbihan), although the wilder and more exposed north coast also attracts summer tourists.

[edit] Transport

There are several airports in Brittany serving destinations in France and England. TGV train services link the région with cities such as Paris, Lyon, Marseille, and Lille in France. In addition there are ferry services that take passengers, vehicles and freight to Ireland, England and the Channel Islands.

Brittany Ferries operates the following regular services:

  • Plymouth-Roscoff (Pont-L'Abbé, Pont-Aven, certain winter sailings operated by Bretagne)
  • Poole-Cherbourg (Barfleur, Coutances, Normandie Vitesse (BF trading name for Condor Vitesse)
  • Portsmouth-St Malo (Bretagne with winter service operated by Pont-Aven)
  • Portsmouth-Ouistreham (Caen) (Mont St Michel, Normandie, Normandie Express, refit cover provided by Bretagne)
  • Roscoff-Cork (Pont-Aven, ocassionally Bretagne)

[edit] Trivia about Brittany

  • A number of Breton independence groups exist and they enjoy increasing, but minority, support in elections.
  • Legendary road bicycle racer Bernard Hinault was born in the town of Yffiniac in Brittany.

[edit] See also

[edit] External links

Wikisource has an original article from the 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica about: