Ammonia Poisoning
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Ammonia poisoning is a common fish disease in new aquariums, especially when immediately stocked to full capacity. Ideally, the level of ammonia compounds NH3 and NH4 should be zero. Although trace amounts are generally harmless, they can still lead to problems over time. Understanding the nitrogen cycle is essential for the keeping of any aquatic life. In essence, try to maintain your aquarium with no traceable ammonia present. The amount of ammonia present is usually accompanied by a rise in pH. As ammonia is a strong base, it is stabilized by alkaline water. It can cause damage to the gills at a level as small as 0.25 mg/l.
[edit] Diagnosis
A history of the tank: filter changes, power outages, excessive feeding, or the addition of microbicidal or antibiotic agents to aquarium can aid in diagnosis. An ammonia test is the most sure way of diagnosing ammonia poisoning.
Symptoms include:
- Purple, red or bleeding gills
- Fish may clamp, may appear darker in color
- Red streaking on the fins or body
- Fish may gasp for air at the surface of the tank water
- Torn & jagged fins
[edit] Treatment
Ammonia poisoning is impossible to cure, however it can be prevented easily by first cycling your tank (see below). Treatments include immediately reducing the ammonia level through many small water changes, or for the immediate removal of ammonia, purchase an ammonia detoxifier such as Kordon's Amquel +, but such chemicals are best used in emergencies only and do not provide a substitute for adequate tank cycling. Once the ammonia is removed, the fish may recover if the damage is not too extensive. Increase aeration, as the gills are often damaged by the ammonia. This can increase the probability of survival slightly. Also, be sure and remove all other sources of stress, and address the cause of the ammonia in the first place so that it doesn't recur even in small levels during the recovery process.
[edit] Prevention (Tank Cycling)
Tank cycling is a process whereby the ammonia reducing bacteria are built up sufficiently to handle your tank load, a process which can take two to four weeks. Avoid adding expensive fish to new tanks. Add a few small and inexpensive fish first. These fish will provide ammonia to feed the bacteria that you are building up. Purchase an ammonia and nitrite test kit. Test the water until the ammonia drops to nearly zero. At this time, you should notice an increase in the nitrite level. When the nitrites are gone, it will be safe to add fish. Note that the bacterial phases will not take place unless the tank is initially stocked with feeder fish which can be removed after treatment. For larger biological loads, purchase a more powerful biological filter such as a wet/dry filter.