Action Directe (climb)
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Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
It has been climbed by nine people.
The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler in 1995
- Iker Pou in 2000
- Dave Graham in 2001
- Christian Bindhammer in 2003
- Rich Simpson on 2005 Oct 13
- Dai Koyamada on 2005 Oct 15
- Markus Bock on 2005 Oct 22
- Kilian Fischhuber on 2006 Sep 25.
Despite being generally recognized as the world's first 9a, Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which corresponds to 8c+/5.14c.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
[edit] External links
- 3rd ascent and picture
- 4th ascent
- 5th ascent
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
INTERVIEWS
