A Bathing Ape
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| A Bathing Ape (Bape) |
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| Type | Private |
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| Founded | 1993 |
| Headquarters | Tokyo |
| Key people | Nigo, Pharrell Williams, Kanye West |
| Industry | Clothing |
| Website | http://www.bape.com |
A Bathing Ape, or Bape, is a Japanese clothing company specializing in urban clothes. Bape's main focus is on clothing and the company produces a variety of clothing items, including but not limited to: shirts, polos, sweatshirts, parkas, jackets, denim, and most notably, the "Bape Sta," a shoe very closely resembling the Nike Air Force One.
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“A Bathing Ape”, also known as BAPE for short derives from a common Japanese term “To bathe in lukewarm water.” This is a common term in Japan used to describe its youth's relaxed, care-free attitude towards life. Designer/owner Nigo (nicknamed as number two in Japanese, as working under another designer before the creation of Bape) feels that Japanese teenagers are too shallow, taking the advantages they were blessed with in life for granted. “They have become too comfortable, like bathing in lukewarm water.” The “Ape” portion of the company’s trademark comes from Nigo’s love for the classic film “Planet of The Apes.” His collection of official memorabilia is currently the second largest in the world, and has been the main inspiration for his Ape themed prints and logo that BAPE is known for. In 1993, Fresh out of a Fashion Design school, the already famed drummer/DJ decided to put his knowledge of the business, and love for “Planet of The Apes” to use and create a small scale t-shirt line that reflected simple ape themed designs. Using funds from his job as a fashion editor for a popular Japanese publication, the garments were produced on a very small scale. The company’s merchandise was sold by word of mouth advertising, and the rest given away to Nigo’s friends and family. Japanese fashion magazines started to catch on to the brand through local trendsetters, causing the line to really take off. Soon after the company’s flagship store titled “No Where Limited” was established in Japan, “hypebeasts” (referred to as one who collects limited or collector’s edition memorabilia, mainly apparel and footwear) and fans of the product were lining up outside the doors for the chance to get their hands on the company’s extremely rare and limited apparel. The craze amongst today’s youth for limited or collector’s edition apparel is becoming ever more prevalent in today's modern society. While it may seem to be a pointless way to spend hard earned money, “hypebeasts” would quickly argue that they are not only a part of an effort much larger then just a juvenile fad, but an entire culture that defines a unique way of life. What would once be looked upon as an irrelevant sub-culture has now evolved into a group of enthusiasts recognizable nationwide. Pioneer companies like “A Bathing Ape” have made it hard to argue the idea of the “hypebeast” culture being a lifestyle. There are currently over 16 retail stores worldwide, and a variety of other miscellaneous outlets based on highlighting the brands lifestyle image (25 signature outlets in total). The newest edition to the chain of BAPE mania outlets is the BAPE Café. The whimsical ape head logo graces almost every item in the restaurant. Utensils, cup holsters, napkins, even the bill are all covered in BAPE themed ape head. Along with the BAPE Café, the branding giant also boasts a BAPE themed art gallery, hair salon, (BAPE Cuts) record label, (Ape sounds) BAPE TV, and someday even a BAPE hotel.
The company was started in 1993 by designer Nigo (born Tomoaki Nagao, December 23, 1970) as a T-shirt brand, originating in the trendy Harajuku area of Tokyo. The brand was launched while Nigo was working out of a tiny Harajuku storefront called "Nowhere", becoming one of the first Japanese streetwear brands. Bape's logo and themes are derived from the original Planet of the Apes movies, while the brand's name is based on a common Japanese saying, "bathing in lukewarm water", describing the comfortable lifestyle of today's youth in Japan. A Bathing Ape was exclusive from the beginning, as it was a two-man operation with Nigo and a friend designing, making and selling ape-logoed shirts. The shirts were initially made in batches of about 30, with half being given out to friends and the rest sold to word-of-mouth customers. It was not until Japanese fashion magazines and their "street snaps", or pictures of fashionable trend-setters started showing the Bape logo that the brand really took off.
Bape originally sold exclusively at company-owned Busy Works Shops and focused mostly on men's apparel like T-shirts and hoodies, but has now created Bathing Ape brands to cater to women and children. The women's lines, Apee and Bapy, are usually sold in Busy Works/Bape stores, or have stores next door. Bape Kids, the children's line, has its own store in Tokyo. A Bathing Ape has even extended beyond clothing to a hair salon (Bape Cuts), gallery (Bape Gallery), cafe (Bape Cafe), record label (Ape Sounds) and (B)apeTV. A Bathing Ape also produced limited-edition hip hop-themed vinyl figures. In addition, it is rumored that Nigo plans on opening a Bape Hotel.[1]
Over the years, Bape has opened many stores in Japan, in the cities of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Due to its international popularity, Bape has expanded by opening stores in London, New York City, Taipei, and Hong Kong. In addition, a Bape store is opening in LA in March of 2007. In total, Bape has opened 22 stores, each having their own signature Bape camouflage colourway.
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[edit] Fame
Bape has been a staple in the Japanese urbanwear scene for over 10 years. It has reached such levels of popularity that fans will line up for hours, if not days, to buy a particularly rare and hyped item. Despite trying to maintain its exclusivity, its popularity has permeated into the Japanese mainstream and pop culture. Bape is so well-known and brand recognizable that they were even commissioned to design a limited edition Pepsi bottle.
Since Bape started in Japan, it took a little longer to gain international popularity. Previously, Bape had been generally regarded as an "underground" urban clothing company. Because they rarely advertise in magazines or other mediums, they have not made an effort to be well-known or mainstream. However, in recent years, Bape has gained a lot of popularity due to the number of celebrities that are seen wearing Bape clothing and the countless references to Bape in rap songs. In the 90s, James Lavelle of UNKLE was originally instrumental in increasing the brand's popularity in the United Kingdom. DJ Shadow, then signed to Lavelle's Mo'Wax label was often seen wearing the brand in photos. Nigo has also recently teamed up with Kanye West on a number of collaborations, such as a "Kanye West Bape Sta" and musical collaborations with The Teriyaki Boyz, Nigo's new rap group, such as I Still Love H.E.R. NewYork natives Young Dice and other members of the popular rap group ChozenOnez have also been spotted decked out in BAPE's newest apparel.
Recently Bape has reached mainstream culture in the United States on account of popular entertainers wearing the brand, such as Pharrell Williams of hip hop production duo the Neptunes, the President of Def Jam Recordings, Jay-Z, C.E.O. of Carmal Clothing David Shellim, Fall Out Boy, Mark Hoppus of +44, and rap-artists Lil Wayne, Young Jeezy and The Clipse. Nigo has featured American artists, such as the lead singer of Good Charlotte and Pharrell WIlliams, in Bathing Ape advertisements and catalogue features. Due to the success of the creative live, Pharrell has collaborated on a clothing (Billionaire Boys Club) and sneaker (Ice Cream) line with its designer. The Ice Cream Footwear line of shoes is produced by rbk(Reebok) with input from Bathing Ape's Nigo. Bape's popularity in the United States was cemented when he opened the first American Bape store in New York City in 2004, although the brand is not nearly as popular as in Japan
[edit] Design
While the basis for Bape design is pop-culture references, it changes the reference and individualizes the product to fit in the Bape design philosophy.
BapeStas are one of A Bathing Ape's signature designs, released in 2002. This sneaker is based entirely on the Nike Air Force 1, with Bape's Star (or Sta) logos in place of the famed Nike swoosh. BapeStas often feature brightly colored patent leather and colorways that were unique as well as being double (or more) the price of the Nike Air Force 1. The first few years of release were sold only in Busy Works Shops and Footsoldier stores in Asia, with a rumored 100 pairs per colorway. BapeStas are now made in slightly larger numbers for the global market and are only available at Busy Works Shops and authorized retailers such as Union in Los Angeles. This design and its success have not gone unnoticed by Nike, who in 2005 began releasing its popular Air Force 1 sneakers in bright patent leather colors and limited editions, in a case of the originator mimicking the imitator.
2002 was a busy year for Bathing Ape footwear, as Nigo worked with Adidas to produce a limited edition Superskate shoe. It featured the Bape head logo with Adidas' stripes through it. There were three colorways, 500 pairs each, and each pair came with three colors of laces and a Bape lace badge.
In 2003, Bape again collaborated with footwear company Adidas to produce limited-edition versions of its venerable Superstar, or "Shell Toes". Small details were added to this iconic shoe, such as embossed Bape logos, gold-toned logo lace badges, and the signature Bape comouflage. There were a total of three commercially available colorways of the Bape and Adidas collaboration, 500 pairs each. A special all-black version was made in a run of 100, with half going to Nigo and half going to Adidas.
[edit] Marketing
A Bathing Ape has become a premier streetwear brand through its shrewd marketing, or lack thereof. A basic philosophy of Bape is to create comfortable detail-oriented clothing designs while creating exclusivity and demand by limiting supply. The effect of this limited-edition business model is that demand far outstrips supply. Some say this is the "genius" of Bape. For example, Bape stores are usually difficult to find and are not typically marked with signs in an effort to maintain exclusivity. Many stores also only allow one product per person (in the buyers size only) to prevent items from appearing on the black market. This makes the product that much more desirable because the customer is one of the lucky ones that waited for or spent a lot money on it on the black market, particularly for rare items. Also, the products are generally very expensive for what they are (screen-printed cotton T-shirts cost upwards of $60-$70 USD). They justify this high cost because each item is produced in such limited supply.
While A Bathing Ape does not advertise in any magazines, newspapers or any other traditional media, it does release a quarterly "lookbook" or catalog to show its upcoming items. The catalog, sold at bookstores and magazine retailers as well as its own BWS stores, is essentially a Bape magazine and features exclusive interviews with Nigo and photo spreads featuring Japanese musicians and American artists like Kanye West. Like many Japanese fashion magazines, it includes a sticker set as well as a free giveaway such as fleece gloves, or mousepad.
Further, Bape has an "Official Member's Card" that creates a stronger sense of exclusivity. There are two tiers of membership, green (¥1,050/year) and gold(¥3,150/year), mimicking both the American Express credit card principle as well as its design. Twice a year, Bape.com releases certain items that are exclusively sold to Bape Card members only available to purchase if enough points have been accrued, which can be gained by buying other Bape products.[2] As of January 2007, the membership for the Member's Club is only open to those whose principal residence and bank account is situated in Japan.
A Bathing Ape's website (http://bape.com/) is a download-only site used to view products, news, and music. The download is a program that is then linked to the actual website but, once again, it promotes a feeling of exclusivity, being that the website can only be accessed after downloading the program. It also has a more involved interface, playing music and using active links within the program. Purchase cannot be made from the page but it includes store locations, news, and many other things involving A Bathing Ape products.
[edit] Style
Bape is notorious for unique color schemes and patterns, with the most popular being their variation of camouflage. Bape hoodies are also famed for being able to be zipped completely up as well as having a pattern printed over the whole hoodie,and usually the same design is on the inside,making the hoodies reversible.Another notable aspect of the bape hoodies,is that when some of them are completely zipped up over the face,a face that is printed on the hood is shown, a good example of this is the very popular camoshark. It is a style in Japan and in America too. There are many fakes made also.
[edit] Counterfeit
Due to the scarcity of Bape items, in conjunction with its high prices and high demand, there are a large number of counterfeit items in circulation, both on the internet and in some retail stores. Counterfeit Bape items are typically known as "Fapes," a portmanteau of "Bape" and "fake." With the sheer number of Fape items produced, the quality is becoming better and it has become increasingly difficult for average buyers to spot them without a side-to-side comparison of the genuine item. In the case of regular Bape shoppers, however, Fapes are often very easily identified. It is also a tradition within Hypebeast culture to point out and ridicule Fape wearers, sometimes even on the streets.
Additionally, with the opening of a Busy Work Shop in Los Angeles sometime in 2007, Bape's exposure and Fape counterfeit products could be at an all time high. Fape is everywhere and it is virtually impossible to find authentic products on eBay or anywhere other than the Busy Work Shops and authorized retailers. In fact, the Bape website[3] reminds its visitors that the brand's clothing will always only be available through their stores and that they never do wholesale. A large portion of Fape wearers are naive to the fact they are purchasing fakes. They often believe that they have found discounted deal through various other channels, when they are, in fact, being tricked into purchasing Fapes. In reality, Bape never sells any of their products with a discount. Below-retail price tags are the first, and largest, indicator of Fapes.
Mostly all Bape sweaters are made in Japan, but a few styles are made in China - especially the newer styles, such as the Shark Camouflage, the Chomper and many other styles.
[edit] Brand Distinction
"A Bathing Ape" and "Bape by A Bathing Ape" are actually two different lines. "A Bathing Ape" is a high-end line, akin to couture, as opposed to the "Bape by A Bathing Ape" line, with more pedestrian items. The use of crystals, leather, and other premium materials is more prevalent in "A Bathing Ape" items than it is in "Bape by Bathing Ape" items.bapes or "fapes" with a white or light colored base if bought not in the genuine bape store are always fake. Darker or black ones are usually real , especially if they have common patterns.
[edit] Criticism
Though the brand has much acclaim, it can not be ignored that its style resembles if not imitates the Nike Air Force One. There has been much criticism from consumers and purists who argue that “A Bathing Ape” in all its forms has merely copied the successful nature and concept made a classic by Nike. Also to note is that many purists view “A Bathing Ape” as merely a fad and not a classic.
