West Azarbaijan Province

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This article is about the Iranian province; for similar uses, see Azerbaijan (disambiguation).

West Azarbaijan Province استان آذربایجان غربی
Location
Statistics
Capital:  • Coordinates:	Urmia  • 37.5528° N 45.0759° E
Area :	37,437 km²
Population(2005):  • Density :	2,949,426  • 78.8/km²
Sub-provinces (Shahrestan):	14
Time zone:	UTC+3:30
Main language(s):	Azeri Kurdish Persian

West Azarbaijan or West Azerbaijan (Persian: آذربایجان غربی Āzārbāijān-e Gharbī; Kurdish: Azerbaycanî Rojawa; Azeri: Qərbi Azərbaycan) is one of the 30 provinces of Iran.

The province of West Azarbaijan covers an area of 39,487 km², or 43,660 km² including Lake Urmia. In 2006 the province had a population of 3015361 [2]. The capital city of the province is Urmia.

[edit] History

Parthian fire temple, Takht-e Sulaiman,Takab

This Sassanid relief is located near Salmas, and is believed to depict either Ardashir I or Shapur I.

The name "Azarbaijan" comes from the ancient Old Persian name Atro Patikan and Middle Persian "Adur Paiyigan." The name means "The Guardians of Fire"—a referemce to the holy Zoroastrian fire that burned in the grand fire temple at Ganzak/Ganzaca (modern Takab) —the first capital of Azarbaijan/Media Minor.

According to various sources cited in Encyclopedia Iranica ^[1], the current province of West Azarbaijan was part of the Sassanid Azarbadegan satrap as far back as the 3rd century.^[2] The current ruins of Takht-i Suleiman in today’s West Azarbaijan was the capital of the Azarbaijan Satrapy.^[3]

Excavation sites such as Teppe Hasanlu establish permanent settlement in the province to the 6th millennium BCE. In Hasanlu, a famous Golden Vase was found in 1958. The province is also the location of Teppe Hajifiruz, site of some of the world’s earliest evidence of wine production.^[4] Gooy Teppe is another significant site. A metal plaque dating from 800 BCE depicts a scene from the epic of Gilgamesh. Islamic researchers proclaim that the birth of the prophet Zoroaster was in this area, in the vicinity of Lake Orumieh (Chichesht), Konzak City.

Ruins such as these and the UNESCO world heritage site at the Sassanid compound of Takht-i-Suleiman illustrate the strategic importance and tumultuous history of the province through the millennia. Overall, the province enjoys a wealth of historical attractions, with 169 sites registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran.

The province continued to experience many wars over the centuries. Numerous Azeris arrived in the region, including to the west of Lake Urmia beginning around the 13th century.^[5].

The first monarch of Iran's Qajar dynasty, Agha Muhammad Khan, was coronated in Urmia in 1795.

Significant events in 19th and 20th century that took place are:

• Shaikh Ubeidullah Revolts, west and south of Lake Urmia in 1880;^[6]
• Simko Insurrections, west of Lake Urmia from 1918 to 1922;^[7]
• the Soviet occupation in 1946;
• the foundation and destruction of the Republic of Mahabad in 1946; and
• periodic severe fighting from 1979 until 1990s (and even to the present, but on a smaller scale [3]) between Kurdish (nationalist and communist) forces and the Iranian government. At times, large parts of the province were without government control[4].

These separatist movements however can visibly trace their origins back to the colonialist policies of the Soviet Union and Imperial Russia. In a cable sent on July 6th 1945 by the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union, the local Soviet commander in Russian (northern) held Azerbaijan was instructed as such:

"Begin preparatory work to form a national autonomous Azerbaijan district with broad powers within the Iranian state and simultaneously develop separatist movements in the provinces of Gilan, Mazandaran, Gorgan, and Khorasan".^[8]

[edit] Geography and Climate

Mountainous landscape of the province

A wild field of poppies

With an area of 43,660 square kilometers, including Urmia lake,the province of West Azarbayjan is located on the north-west of Iran. It include 12 townships: Boukan, Khoy, Makoo, Mahabad, Meyandoab, Naghadeh, Pyranshahr, Salmas, Sardasht, Shahindej, Takab, and Urmia. The climate of the province is largely influenced by the rainy winds of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean. Cold northern winds affect the province during winter and cause heavy snow. According to existing meteorological data, local temperatures vary within the province. Average temperature differs from 9.4 °C in Piranshahr to 11.6 °C in Mahabad, while it is 9.8 °C in Urmia, 10.8 °C in Khoy, 9.4 °C in Piranshahr, and in Mahabad 11.6 °C. According to same data, the highest temperature in the province reaches 34 °C in July, and the lowest temperature is –16 °C in January. Maximum change of temperature in summer is 4 °C, and in winter 15 °C. West- Azarbayjan province, encompassing vast and fertile plains, high mountains, enjoying moderate and healthy weather, rivers with high volume of water, vineyards, orchads, luxuriant forest and rangelands, mountain outskirt with wonderful flora, magnificent wildlife and beautiful shoers around the lake with differnt recretional facikities, which all together form one of the most beautiful and spectacular region in Iran. A land with wonderful flora during the spring and the summer covered with tulip, poppy, narcissus and hyacinth extending from Arass rivers banks in the north to Zab Kouchak valley in the south.

[edit] Demographics

West Azarbaijan province townships

The province is divided into 14 townships. The present number of townships was achieved over time by subdivision of many of the larger townships into smaller ones. The townships in the province are: Piranshahr, Urmia, Mahabad, Oshnaviyeh, Miandoab, Naghadeh, Takab, Shahindej, Maku, Chaldoran, Salmas, Khoy, Sardasht and Bukan.

There are no official statistics or census figures on the ethnic makeup of Iranian cities. The Encyclopedia Iranica however states that the geographic extent of Azeri-speaking people goes "well beyond the boundaries of West Azarbaijan" ^[9], and that Kurdish people "are found in the border regions of the West Azerbaijan province". ^[10]. Other sources claim the Azeris as a major population of the province as well.^[11]

Five of the cities in the province have predominantly Kurdish populations, namely: Piranshahr, Mahabad, Oshnaviyeh, Sardasht and Bukan. On the other hand, the city of Miandoab have Azeri majority. Some sources (such as: ^[12]) have claimed Urmia to have an Azeri majority. The remaining townships are heterogeneous and their populations have long been a mixture of Azeri and Kurdish peoples.

there are four small ethnic and religious groups who are native to the province but who have minority status: Assyrians, Armenians, and Jews.

The Sunni and Yarsan Kurds predominate in the western and southern highlands in the province, while the lowlands are dominated by the Shi’a Azeris (in the north), and Armenian and Assyrian Christians (in the south). The present borders of the province are the artifact of the Iranian official cartography and do not correspond with the borders of historic Azarbaijan (which ended where the highlands began).

The diversity of religions in the province has been a major factor throughout the entire history of the province. The religions in the province are: Islam (Sunni and Shia sects), Christianity, Judaism, and Yarasani. Both Kurds and Turks follow Islam, the Kurds belonging to the Sunni branch and the Turks being mainly Shias, except for a very small minority who follow a religion called Yarasani (or Ahl-e Haqq, اهل حق). Christianity is the main religion of the Assyrians and Armenians. The Jews, as the name indicates, belong to the Judaism religion.

The fourteen cities in the province and their populations (based on 2006 estimates [5]) are:

[edit] Religion

Qara Kelissa, Chaldoran. Believed by some to have been first built in AD 66 by Saint Jude. Local Armenians believe that he and Simon were both buried here. In 1329, the church was reconstructed in its present form after an earthquake destroyed the structure in 1319.

In this province, Islam (Sunni and Shiite) is the majority religion. However, there is also a large Christian minority, comprised of Assyrians who have historically lived on the west shore of Lake Urmia, as well as Armenians who are scattered throughout the province. Notably, the city of Maku in northern West Azarbaijan was the only city in Iran (before World War II) where Christians comprised the majority. Before World War I, Christian Armenians and Assyrians comprimised the majority in Urmia, but that was changed after the Armenian and Assyrian genocide during WWI.

St. Thaddeus Cathedral is located on the outskirts of Chaldoran, near the village of Qara-Kelissa. Besides being a religious site with a particular significance among Iranian Christians, particularly Armenians, this large church (monastery) is also a rare and valuable monument in architectural and artistic terms.

St. Thaddeus, also known as Jude Thaddeus or Jude Labbeus, was one of the apostles of Jesus Christ who traveled to Armenia, where he was later killed and upon whose grave the locals erected a small chapel in AD 301. The cathedral is known as Qara-kelissa ('Black church' in Turkish) to the locals, owing to the appearance of its western section.

[edit] Churches in West Azarbaijan

In all, thirty-one churches are registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran in the province. Many of these are historical landmarks and unusually rich in heritage. Some of the more famous ones are listed as follows^[13]:

• Qara Kelissa (The Black Church), Armenian, Chaldoran, early Christianity.
• Kelisa Naneh Maryam (Church of Mother Mary), Assyrian, Urmia, Sassanid era.
• Kelisa Hazrat Maryam (Church of Mary), Assyrian, Urmia, late Sassanid period.
• Kelisa Surep Serkis, Khoy, 4th century AD.
• Kelisa Haftvan, Salmas, Armenian, 13th century.
• Kelisa Golpashan, Urmia, rebuilt in 1905.
• Kelisa Martoma (Church of Thomas), believed by local Armenians to be the first church in Iran founded by St. Thomas himself.
• Kelisa Qarabagh, Armenian, Ilkhanid period.
• Kelisa Marserkis, Assyrian, Urmia, Sassanid era.
• Kelisa Petrosoplos (Church of Paul and Peter), Urmia, believed built by Bukhtishu.
• Kelisa Golan, Assyrian, 5th century.
• Kelisa Mardanial, outside Urmia, Sassanid era, destroyed in World War I, rebuilt.
• Kelisa Vank Khosrow-abad, near Salmas, Assyrian, built by Khosrau II of Persia. The Holy Cross of Jerusalem was kept here for a while.
• Kelisa Zurzur, Chaldoran, built in AD 1315.

[edit] West Azarbaijan today

Kakh Muzeh Maku, near Maku, built by one of the commanders of Mozzafar-al-Din Shah, is a popular attraction.

In the city of Urumieh, some residents have a high standard of living in comparison with the other cities of the province. There are plenty of parks, coffee shops, cinemas, and internet cafes throughout the city. There are hundreds of small villages in the province as well, most of which have running water and electricity as well as television, satellite, and telephone lines. Southern cities which economically are considered poor areas have always been the venue of Kurdish demonstrators against the Islamic regime. [9]

West Azarbaijan province is one of the most important provinces for Iran’s agriculture.

Iran's current Minister of Energy, Parviz Fattah is from Urmia.

[edit] Culture

West Azarbaijan hails from a rich culture from Kurdish and Azari traditions. Many local traditions, such as music and dances continue to survive among the various peoples of the province. As a longstanding province of Persia, it is mentioned favorably on many occasions in Persian literature by Iran's greatest authors and poets:

گزیده هر چه در ایران بزرگان
زآذربایگان و ری و گرگان

All the nobles and greats of Iran,
Choose from Azarbaijan, Ray, and Gorgan.
--Vis o Ramin

از آنجا بتدبیر آزادگان
بیامد سوی آذرآبادگان

From there the wise and the free,
set off to Azarbaijan
--Nizami

بیک ماه در آذرآبادگان
ببودند شاهان و آزادگان

For a month's time, The Kings and The Free,
Would choose in Azarbaijan to be
--Firdowsi

[edit] Colleges and universities

Urmia University was first built by an American Presbyterian missionary in 1878. A medical faculty was also established there headed by Joseph Cochran and a team of American medical associates. Joseph Cochran and his colleagues were buried in an old cemetery in the vicinity of Urmia. Urmia University website says this about them:

There they lie in peace away from their homeland, and the testimonial epitaphs on their tombs signify their endeavor and devotion to humanity.

The province today has the following major institutes of higher education:

• 1. Urmia University of Medical Sciences
  2. Urmia University [10]
  3. Islamic Azad University of Khoi
  4. Islamic Azad University of Mahabad
  5. Islamic Azad University of Urmia
  6. Islamic Azad University of Piranshahr

[edit] References

[edit] External links

• Piranshahr Handicrafts
• Official website of West Azarbaijan Governor’s Office
• West Azarbaijan’s Government Portal
• West Azarbaijan Provincial Management Organization
• West Azarbaijan Cultural Heritage Organization
• Mahabad municipality official website
• Recent photos from Azarbaijan
• Lake Urmia UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
• Chro
• On the Kurdish tribes of the province
• On the Kurds of Salmas
• About Urmia
• Language of Azeri People

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Provinces of Iran

Ardabil • Bushehr • Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiari • East Azarbaijan • Isfahan • Fars • Gilan • Golestan • Hamadan • Hormozgan • Ilam • Kerman • Kermanshah • Khuzestan • Kohkiluyeh and Buyer Ahmad • Kurdistan • Lorestan • Markazi • Mazandaran • North Khorasan • Qazvin • Qom • Razavi Khorasan • Semnan • Sistan and Baluchistan • South Khorasan • Tehran • West Azarbaijan • Yazd • Zanjan