University Peak
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| University Peak | |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 14,470 ft (4,411 m) |
| Location | Valdez-Cordova Borough,Alaska, USA |
| Range | Saint Elias Mountains |
| Prominence | 3,210 ft (978 m) |
| Coordinates | |
| Topo map | USGS McCarthy B-3 Quadrangle |
| First ascent | June 19, 1955 by Keith Hart, Leon Blumer, Sheldon Brooks, Tim Kelly, Norman Sanders, Gibson Reynolds, R. Houston |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
- For the peak in Antarctica by this name, see University Peak (Antarctica).
University Peak is a high peak in the Saint Elias Mountains of Alaska. It is one of the twenty highest peaks in the United States. It can be considered a southern outlier of the large massif of Mount Bona. However, it is a much steeper peak than Bona, and presents significant climbing challenges of its own.
The peak was named by Terris Moore during the first ascent of Mount Bona; the name refers to the University of Alaska.
[edit] Climbing
The first ascent of University Peak was in 1955, via the North Ridge. The climbers started low on the Hawkins Glacier, and negotiated a difficult icefall to gain a basin at around 10,000 feet elevation, on the west side of the North Ridge. This is still the recommended easiest route, but now one can fly into the 10,000 foot basin to avoid the icefall. This route is rated Alaska Grade 2+.
A much harder route (Alaska Grade 5) was climbed on the East Face of the peak (from the Barnard Glacier) in 1997, by Carlos Buhler and Charlie Sassara.
[edit] Sources
- Michael Wood, Colby Coombs, Alaska: A Climbing Guide, The Mountaineers, 2001.
