Talk:Torx

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What is cam-out? Mathiastck 21:05, 18 August 2006 (UTC)

Phillips screwdrivers and screw heads have internal mating faces engineered slightly off parallel rather than parallel to the driver shaft as in the case of a competing GKN-Sankey(c) Posidriv design. Cam-out occurs when the force required to turn the screw head further has exceeded that required to force the screwdriver's pressure faces to rise up the corresponding sloping cams of the screw head's internal surfaces and emerge. Variable factors - the hardness of the screwdriver's point and screw head, existing wear in the mating surfaces, lubricant contamination, and the proportional relationship of the downward pressure applied to the torque applied, etc. - mean the point at which cam-out will occur may be considerably lower than in a perfect-case scenario.—The preceding unsigned comment was added by Thurble (talk • contribs) .

[edit] TORX Stripping?

"They are generally disliked by the do-it-yourself community due to being much harder to remove compared to their hex head counterparts, as the torx head/bit are much more prone to being stripped/broken." One of the claimed advantages of the TORX drive system is resistance to stripping/breaking. Is there any proof for this statement? —The preceding unsigned comment was added by 128.61.100.16 (talk • contribs) 04:12, 27 October 2006 (UTC).

I know this is anecdotal evidence as well as original research but pretty much every Jeep owner that I know who modifies their Jeep (lift kits, bumpers, etc.) and I know quite a few, takes the time to replace the torx bolts with hex bolts whenever they need to remove a torx for a modification. Some even go so far as to replace every torx bolt, from front to back, inside and out, with a hex bolt, allen head, or machine screw whenever they buy a new (or used) Jeep. Every one. Just so that they don't have to deal with another torx on that vehicle ever again. Just a few links to prove my point... [1], I've removed almost every last torx bolt from my Jeep, been replacing them with stainless bolts and washers, i myself have ran into that damn torx problem. What works the best is drilling out the torx head, and using vise grips to unscrew the rest of the bolt. Usually, it unscrews very easily. Dismas|^(talk) 04:28, 27 October 2006 (UTC)

The statement is specious and should be removed. Thousands of mechanical and manufacturing engineers who've put Torx fasteners into hundreds of industrial and consumer products by the millions over recent decades aren't wrong. Not only the originator of the Torx drive system, but hundreds of manufacturers have proven that Torx drivers last 10 to 20 times longer than competing tools in high volume assembly. Head stripping by do-it-yourselfers can invariably be traced to using damaged tools, using the wrong size Torx bit for the fastener, or attempting to force frozen fasteners. On that basis, NO fastener system could be considered adequate. —Quicksilver^{T @} 21:59, 20 November 2006 (UTC)

Agree this should be removed, I have read the spec sheats and worked with both hex and Torx fasteners for years in many industries and have striped the head and many, many more hex fasteners then Torx (on a percentage basis). Acctualy it's be a month I'm pulling it and the neutrality warning.Raelx 04:53, 23 November 2006 (UTC)