Talk:Top-bar hive

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

	Top-bar hive is within the scope of WikiProject Beekeeping, an attempt to build a comprehensive and detailed guide to beekeeping on Wikipedia. To participate simply edit the article and, if you wish, list yourself at our members list. Don't hesitate to ask questions!
???	This article has not yet received a rating on the quality scale.
???	This article has not yet received a rating on the importance scale.
Comments	Please leave a short summary to explain the ratings and to identify the strengths and weaknesses of the article.

1 Pictures
2 Wintering
3 Queen Excluders
4 KTBH vs TTBH
5 Varroa Control
6 Management
7 Links

[edit] Pictures

This article desperately needs pictures, I'll look for some open/free ones, but I don't know how likely I am to find any... --Kryptknight 02:20, August 3, 2005 (UTC)

[edit] Wintering

I'd have to disagree with the statement in the "Location" section, about them not doing well in cold climates. I know of top bar beekeepers in Casper, WY as well as many similarly cold places, including mine here in Southeastern Nebraska. In my experience, they winter just as well as my Langstroth hives. Michael Bush 12:33, 25 October 2006 (UTC)

[edit] Queen Excluders

I think it is misleading to state that there is something unique about TBH causes them to not require a queen excluder and to imply that a Langstroth hive requires one. I haven't used queen excluders in my Langstroth hives for the last 32 years. They are not required at all, in any hive and I have always found them to be counterproductive. You can do without them in a TBH for the same reason you can do without them in a Langstroth hive. The bees want a consolidated brood nest. They are not looking to scatter brood everywhere. The fact that there is the amount of drone brood that the bees require in the brood nest (due to not using foundation) does contribute to a consolidated brood nest. Michael Bush 12:33, 25 October 2006 (UTC)

[edit] KTBH vs TTBH

I don't know of any beekeepers who have tried both who have reported any difference in the amount of attachments on the sides of the hive.Michael Bush 12:33, 25 October 2006 (UTC)

[edit] Varroa Control

I'm sure it would stir up a lot of controversy to say so, but I find natural comb to be a sufficient deterrent to Varroa as well. http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnaturalcell.htm Michael Bush 12:33, 25 October 2006 (UTC)

[edit] Management

Perhaps a section on Top Bar Hive management would be helpful? Of course every beekeeper uses different techniques, so staying objective gets complicated, but the three issues I would point out are:

o The need for frequent harvesting to keep space in the honey area open.

o The need for empty bars in the brood nest during prime "reproductive" swarm season to expand the brood nest more and prevent swarming.

o The need to have the cluster at one end of the hive at the beginning of winter (at least in Northern climates) so they don't work their way to one end and subsequently starve while leaving stores at the opposite end. This is easily done by simply moving the bars containing the cluster to one end and putting the bars they replaced at the other. Michael Bush 12:33, 25 October 2006 (UTC)