Straight razor
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Straight razor is the name given to reusable knife blade used for shaving hair. They are also called cut throat razors, particularly in the UK and Australia. Although straight razors were once the principal method of manual shaving, they have been largely overshadowed by double-edge or cheap cartridge razors that use disposable blades, and by electric razors of various types.
Nevertheless, some men prefer to use straight razors, which are still produced in Europe and Pakistan. Both new and antique razors are also considered collectibles.
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[edit] History
Straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 20th century and remained that common in many countries until the 1950s. Barbers were specially trained to give customers a thorough and quick shave, and a collection of straight razors ready for use was a common sight in most barbershops.
Cut throat razors eventually fell out of fashion. Their first true challenger was manufactured by King Gillette: a double-edged safety razor with replacable blades. Gillette's genius was the 'loss leader' concept, in which the razors were sold at a loss, but the replacement cartriges earned a high margin at the expense of the consumer. They provided a less effective shave, yet were immensely successful due to advertising campaigns and slogans denigrating the straight razor's effectiveness, and calling into question its safety.
These new safety razors did not require any real instruction or tutelage to use. They did not require any maintenance, as they were immediately replacable. The safety razor also required a smaller initial investment, yet had (and have) a higher total cost over time. The quality straight razor and its superior shave were seen less and less frequently. As they became less popular, the demand for barbers providing straight razor shaves decreased.
[edit] Construction
Straight razors consist of a semi or full hollow-ground blade sharpened on one edge. The blade rotates on a pin through its tang between two protective pieces called scales; when folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage. Handle scales are made of various materials including mother-of-pearl, celluloid, bone, plastic and wood. They were once made of ivory, but this has been discontinued, though fossil ivory is still used occasionally.
[edit] Method of Use
To be most effective, a cut throat razor must be kept extremely sharp. The edge is delicate, and inexpert use may bend or fold over the razor's edge. To unfold and straighten the microscopic sharp edge, one must strop the blade on a leather razor strop before every use. The blade must also be sharpened periodically by honing with a razor hone. Strops prepared with pastes containing fine grit are also used for honing but are not recommended for the inexperienced user as they can easily rake off the edge. Some strops have a linen or canvas back embededded with a fine abrasive used to maintain a sharp edge prior to final polishing with the leather side. A face's worth of thick hair may require multiple stroppings for one shave, but a blade is usually honed only two or three times a year. Occasional regrinding by a professional may be required to restore a badly worn or damaged edge.
Experienced straight razor afficionados often advocate stropping after each shave and allowing the blade to recover its edge for several days before reuse. Historically this necessitated a collection of several razors sometimes sold in a sets for a week's use. Shaving soap in a cup is traditionally lathered and applied using a rotating in and out motion of a badger brush. The shave is completed using as few strokes as possible honing sparingly if at all. A second shave with another razor in an alternate direction against the beard yields an extremely close shave. Rinsing with cold water constricts minor abrasions or cuts, followed by patting dry (not rubbing) and an astringent or aftershave lotion. More serious nicks can be attended with direct pressure for perhaps a minute with a "styptic" type pencil. A light steady touch is most effective at providing a close shave, preserving the edge and avoiding cuts.
In the heyday of cut throat razor shaving, wealthy users maintained a weekly "rotation" of seven razors to reduce wear on any one piece. Straight razors were often sold in special boxes of seven labeled for the days of the week. However, many users owned only one razor.
[edit] Modern Use
Straight razors are still manufactured. DOVO, of Solingen, Germany, and Thiers-Issard of France are two of the most well-known European manufacturers. Feather Safety Razor Co. Ltd. of Osaka, Japan makes a razor with the same form as a traditional straight, but featuring a disposable blade.
Modern straight razor users are known to favor them for a variety of reasons. Some (e.g. young fogeys) are attracted to the nostalgia of using old and traditional methods of shaving. Others profess an interest in reducing the waste of disposable blades. Still others agree that straight razors provide a superior shave through a sharper blade and greater control of the blade angle. Others simply like the good results and the satisfaction of maintaining the blade themselves. For all these reasons, devotees of the straight razor make for an active market.
Many barbers who provide straight razor shaving now must use a version that employs a disposable blade system, as required by law in some areas. This eliminates the need for sharpening and provides greater assurance of good hygiene.
[edit] Razor Collecting
There is also an active market for antique razors in many countries, especially those in Europe and North America. Some collectors use their antique razors for shaving, but many simply collect them as memorabilia.
[edit] Use as a Weapon
The typical straight razor's extreme sharpness, portability, and ease of concealment has led to it being used as an illegal weapon. As a straight razor has a slashing action and not a stabbing one, it is often used to disfigure the victim of the assault. Slitting the victim's face from the corner of the mouth to the ear is called a Chelsea smile, as this was said to be a method of punishment dispensed by criminal gangs in the Chelsea area of London. The prevalence of attacks involving knives in Glasgow (Glasgow's "knife culture"), has also led to the term Glasgow smile being adopted for the same injury. Here, the colloquial name for the weapon is a malky (local rhyming slang, Malky [Malcolm] Fraser = razor), thus by extension any edged weapon so used. As massive blood loss occurs from such a wound, these injuries can prove fatal. If they do not, a distinctive scar is formed. Straight razors have featured in some films as both weapons and torture implements.
Tom Anderson designed a weaponized version of the straight razor in the form of a locking tactical folding knife. It is called the Raze-Tac, and is produced commercially by Master Cutlery.
[edit] Straight razors in popular culture
Straight razors sometimes appear in popular culture. Some examples include:
[edit] Film
- First Blood
- Reservoir Dogs
- Kill Bill Vol. 2
- The Matrix Reloaded
- Scary Movie 4
- Escape from New York
- Repulsion
- The Crow
[edit] Music
- Bed of Razors by Children of Bodom
[edit] Books
- Lost Souls
- The Dark Half
- A Clockwork Orange
[edit] Stage
[edit] Television
- The episode Provenance of TV series Supernatural
