Skarstind

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Skarstind

Eastern wall of Skarstind, August 2005
Elevation 2,373 metres (7,793 ft)
Location Lom, Norway
Range Jotunheimen
Prominence 280 m
Coordinates 61°38′02″N, 8°15′55″E
First ascent 1884 (Severin Wleugel, Sig. Thor, Oskar Kristiansen)
Easiest route Strenous Hike

Skarstind is a prominent part of the Galdhøpiggen mountain range in northwestern Jotunheimen, Norway, and is the sixth highest summit in the country. The mountain has three summits, the main summit at 2373 meters above sea level, Nåle, the Needle, at 2310 and the small western summit at 2215. It is located within the municipality of Lom, (in Oppland). It is situated on the eastern side of the Leirdalen valley, and the summit can be observed from the road along this valley floor. There are several other summits in the vicinity, but only Galdhøpiggen, a few kilometers to the east is higher. The summit can be observed from most higher summits in Jotunheimen and Breheimen to the northwest.

Skarstind seen from the western summit.
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Skarstind seen from the western summit.

The first part of the name Skarstind is one of the Norwegian words for mountain pass. Which pass that has given its name to the summit is impossible to say. It might be the pass to the south or it might be the pass between the summit itself and the pinnacle, Nåle. Nåle, the Needle, has got its name from the local word for pinnacle, which describes the shape of it.

The summit was reached for the first time in 1884 by Severin Wleugel, Sig. Thor, Oskar Kristiansen. The two smaller summits has no known first climb, but it is probable that they were climbed at the same time.

The views, except towards the east, where Galdhøpiggen blocks the view, are among the best in Jotunheimen. To the west, you see the Smørstabbtindene range, the Hurrungane range and the Jostedalsbreen glacier. To the northwest you see the Hestbrepiggane range and to the south you see most of the summits in central Jotunheimen.

The shape of the mountain is extremely characteristic. Only from northwest does it look like a 'tind' a high pointy summit in Norwegian. From the east, from Galdhøpiggen, it shows its steep wall with Nåle balancing on the left flank, as seen in the table. This wall is one of the more inaccessible in Jotunheimen and is climbed rarely. The southwest face is less forbidding, and it is possible to find a way up through the partly snow covered talus slopes. The mountain, as its neighbors, consists of the hard gabbro rock, which withstands erosion better than most other rocks. The orientation of the layers of gabbro in Skarstind is uncommon. Normally they rise from northwest towards southeast, which is why many summits are easiest to reach from the north side. At Skarstind the layers rise from southwest towards northeast. This is easily seen on the photo in the table.

The southwest face of Skarstind with fresh snow in August
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The southwest face of Skarstind with fresh snow in August

The summit can be reached without equipment if the conditions are good and there is very little snow on the talus slopes on the southwest face. The normal ascent starts from Leirdalen up to Dummhøe, which is an easy, but rather steep climb of more than 1000 meters. Up to approximately 1500 meters, there is a path, made by sheep and goats, and used by mountaineers, but from there one has to follow the ridge up to Dummhøe, which is more of a small plain than a mountain. The plain is followed up to the summit of Western Skarstind, but from that small summit you can see the difficult west wall of the main summit.

There are four small walls to climb, but they may all be outflanked on the right side if the conditions are good. From the Western summit the flank seems nearly as forbidding as the wall itself, but at a close distance it is not to difficult and no equipment should be necessary. On days with fresh snow, like the last picture, equipment will probably be necessary on all routes.

Nåle seems to be very difficult, but it is much easier than the summit itself.

The summit is quite popular, given the summit's high rank among Norwegian summits, but it is still climbed by quite few people. Most days during the short summer season will find peakbaggers there, but the summit is hardly ever crowded. A winter ascent is only for the very experienced.


[edit] Sources:

Norske fjelltopper over 2000 meter by Morten and Julia Mortensen - Glittertind forlag (Publishers)

Jotunheimen bind 3 (volume 3) by Erik W. Thommesen and Tor Harald Skogheim - Valdres forlag (Publishers)

Norges geografi by Hans Christian Kullerud and Hasse Raastad - Aschehougs forlag (Publishers)

Interviews with several hikers visiting the summits 1995, 1996, 2003 and 2006