Siula Grande

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Siula Grande
Elevation 6,344 m (20,814 ft)
Location Peru
Range Cordillera Huayhuash
Coordinates 10°17′0″S, 76°53′0″W
First ascent 1936
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Siula Grande is a mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash, in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6344 m high.

It was made famous by the book Touching the Void by Joe Simpson, about an ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates in 1985. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by a German team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather in 1985. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face.

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.

  • 1936 North Ridge by two Germans
  • 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates
  • 1999 Peru West Face Touching The Void (new route) by Carlos Buhler. (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding The Touch")
  • 2001 July 17 Noches de "Juerga", WEST FACE OF SIULA GRANDE
  • 2002 July 3 Northeast Face, Los Rapidos by Marjan Kovac and Pavle Kozjek ([1])
  • 2002 August Mammut Tracks, west face, by Rogier van Rijn and Eva Oomen ([2])

(in Spanish) Andes Siula Grande

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