Sausage making
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See also the main article on sausages and the main article on meat curing.
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[edit] Background
Sausage making originally developed as a means to preserve and transport meat. Primitive societies learned that dried berries and spices could be added to dried meat. By 600-500 BC we have mention of sausages from China, Rome and Greece. Sausages come in two main types: fresh and cured. Cured sausages are subdivided into cooked and dried. Most cured sausages are smoked however this is not mandatory. The curing process itself changes the meat and imparts its own familiar flavors. An example is the differnce in taste between a pork roast and a ham.
All smoked sausages must be cured. The reason for this is the threat of botulism. The bacterium responsible, Clostridium botulinum, is ubiquitous in the environment, grows in the anaerobic conditions created in the smoke house and thrives in the 40 °F to 140 °F (5 °C to 60 °C) temperature range. For this reason, anything you smoke must be cured. If you can't cure it do not smoke it.
[edit] Cures: sodium and potassium nitrite and nitrate
Both nitrites and nitrates are used in curing meats and making sausages. Nitrites are used for all types of sausages and are the most common. Nitrates are used only in the prepraration of the cured dry style of sausages. Over a period of time the nitrates are converted into nitrites. Nitrites themselves are very common in our food supply and for instance are found at levels up to 3,000 ppm by weight (w/w) in foods like beets, lettuce, potatoes, and radishes.
The human digestive system manufactures nitrites and this is likely what prevents botulism which would thrive in the anaerobic conditions and temperature range of the digestive system (gut). The lack of nitrites has been implicated in sudden infant death syndrome.
Cured meat products typically contain less than 40 ppm w/w nitrites.
Potassium nitrite and potassium nitrate allow sausages with lower levels of sodium. When using the potassium form, it is necessary to include other ingredients to mask the more bitter flavours imparted.
Old recipes recommending the use of saltpetre are not recommended. The primary reason is that often these old recipes contain many times more curing ingredients than are appropriate. Modern techniques are readily available and do a much better job.
In the sausage industry the nitrites and nitrates are pre formulated into a product called Prague powder #1 and Prague powder #2. Prague powder #1 contains 6.25% sodium nitrite and 93.75% sodium chloride and is used for the preparation of all cured meats and sausages other than the dry type. Prague powder #2 contains 1 ounce of sodium nitrite and 0.64 ounces sodium nitrate per pound of finished product (the remaining 14.36 ounces is sodium chloride) and is used for the preparation of Cured dry sausages. Prague powder #2 should NEVER be used on any product that will be fried at high temperature (eg. bacon) because of the formation of nitrosamines.
When using cure, it is very important to never exceed the recommended amounts: This is 4 ounces of Prague Powder #1 in 100 pounds of meat (2.5 g/kg). Equivalently this is 2 teaspoons for 10 pounds. Note that the maximum allowable amount of sodium nitrite and potassium nitrite is governed by regulations and is limited to 0.25 ounces per 100 pounds of chopped meat. Since Prague powder #1 is a 1:15 dilution (in a pound of Prague powder #1 one ounce is sodium nitrite and 15 ounces are common table salt), we get the proper amount at a rate of 4 ounces added to 100 lb of meat.
Sodium nitrate and potassium nitrate are limited to 2.75 ounces per 100 pounds.
Sodium and potassium nitrite are quite toxic to humans with the lethal dose being about 4 grams. As little as 22 mg/kg of body weight can cause death. This is about 2.2 grams for a body mass of 100 kg. IE, there is enough sodium nitrite in 2 ounces of Prague powder #1 to kill a person.
Morton's Quick Cure is the brand name of another formulation of sodium nitrite with salt and sugars added. It is not the same concentration as either "Prague powder #1 or #2". Since the amount of nitrite present in the recipe is essential for safety, one cannot take a recipe designed for Prague powder and simply substitute. To do so will invite botulism poisoning. Similarly one cannot just substitute Prague powder #1 in place of Morton's Quick Cure. To substitute one must calculate the exact amount of nitrite required and make the proper adjustments.
[edit] Meat quality
The quality of the meats incorporated into sausages and prepared meats has deteriorated for many reasons over the years. The primary reason is that this has been done in the name of efficiency. This explanation should probably be interpreted in the light of what the meat packing industry can get away with. This does not mean the product is not wholesome. It does mean that the product may contain animal parts that the consumer would normally not eat. For this reason urban myth sometimes gives a bad name to certain sausage types
The independent sausage kitchen and hobbiest have control over the cuts that are used and also control over the amount of fat and other ingredients. Consequently a more trustworthy and superb quality product can be assured.
[edit] Fresh sausages
These are simply seasoned ground meats that are cooked before serving. Fresh sausages normally do not use cure (Prague powder #1) although cure can be used if desired. In addition fresh sausages typically do not use smoke flavours, although liquid smoke can be used. Fresh sausages are never smoked in a smoker because of the danger of botulism.
The primary seasoning agent in fresh sausages is salt and sugars along with various savory herbs and spices and often vegetables including onion and garlic. See sample recipes below.
[edit] Cured cooked sausages
Cured sausages differ from fresh sausages by including 2 teaspoons of cure (Prague powder #1) per 10 pounds of finished product. This is usually interpreted per 10 pounds of meat. This works out to 4 ounces of cure for 100 pounds of sausage.
Next the product is typically hot smoked. However similar effects can be achieved by incorporating liquid smoke in the recipe. Smoking temperatures vary and are typically less than 155 degrees Fahrenheit (68 °C). At a temperature of 152 °F (67 °C) these sausages are fully cooked.
In some cases a cold smoke is used. If so - then the sausage may be cooked in a water bath held at the proper temperature. An example of this process is the preparation of Braunschweiger. In this style of sausage, after stuffing into 2.75 inch to 3 inch hog buns or fiberous casings, the sausage is submerged in 160 °F (70 °C) water for 2 to 2½ hours until the internal temperature reaches 152 °F (67 °C). At this point the sausage should be chilled in ice water, then cold smoked at a temperature of 115 to 120 °F (46 to 49 °C) for 2-3 hours.
[edit] Cured dry sausages
Cured dry sausages are prepared in a similar fashion to cured cooked sausages. The major difference is that Prague powder #2 will be used in place of Prague powder #1. In addition certified meats must be used. Since these products are never heated to a temperature that can kill trichinosis it is necessary to accomplish this by other methods. The usual method is via freezing. Pork may be rendered acceptable for use in dry sausages by freezing it using the following guidelines:
| 5 °F | 20-30 days |
| -10 °F | 10-20 days |
| -20 °F | 6-12 days |
The specific regulations are quite complex and are beyond the scope of this article. They depend on the thickness of the cuts of meat, the packaging method, and other factors. In addition there are very specific requirements as to the times in the drying rooms and the temperatures in the smoke rooms.
While it is quite feasible for the small sausage kitchen or hobbyist to produce excellent cured dry sausages, a great deal of technical information is required. Alternatively certified pork can be simply purchased.
[edit] Sample recipes
[edit] Recipe #1: fresh pork sausage
Ingredients are listed per 100 lb meat.
| 2 oz | ground sage |
| 1 oz | ground ginger |
| 1 oz | ground nutmeg |
| 1 oz | ground thyme |
| 2 lb | salt |
| 1 oz | (optional) ground hot pepper (such as Cayenne) |
Meat:
Choose 300-400 lb sows if available. Slaughter animal and skin it. Entrails should be saved, cleaned and may be used for stuffing. Process immediately before animal has a chance to cool below 85 °F.
Bone and trim cutting into strips 3" to 6". The end product should be about 60% lean and 40% fat. Some of the back fat can be removed to make these sausages leaner.
Weigh meat and grind through a 3/16" grinder plate. Mix in the spices thoroughly. Immediately transfer to pans and cool as quickly as possible — place outside in a snow bank or in an ice chest or freezer.
Sausage may be stuffed when cool. You may use lamb casings (typical for pork sausage), hog casings, cloth casings, or fiberous 3 1/2" x 24" casings, or you can make into sausage patties.
This sausage MUST NOT BE SMOKED since there is no cure used (Prague powder #1). However liquid smoke can be added if desired. If this sausage is BBQ'd then wood chips can be tossed in the BBQ. Maple chips would be a good choice because of the sweetness imparted.
Fresh pork sausages prepared by this method should cost less than US$0.50 per pound (US$1.10/kg). Note that commercial sausage kitchens do not add water. The home sausage maker can add dry milk powder (see below), and 1 imperial gallon of ice cold water. The water will make stuffing easier. Alternatively up to a gallon of fresh ice cold milk can be added. Note: if adding liquid match the temperature to that of the meat. You can mix in the spices and liquid after the meat has cooled.
[edit] Recipe #2: Swedish potato sausage
While I have never used the whole pig method of making this delicious sausage, I can see no reason why it cannot be done that way. Meats for this sausage can vary and can contain a small amount of organ meat such as kidneys. In the recipe below it is perfectly acceptable to substitute for the beef. Elk, moose, deer, cariboo, buffalo, goat, kangaroo, chicken, ostrich and turkey can be used. When using lean meats it is important to ensure there is at least 10% to 15% fat. If using poultry it is best to find the largest birds possible and use only the dark meat. Stewing birds are acceptable as are tough wild birds. It is also best to substitute poultry for some part of the pork, retaining at least some of the beef. However this recipe is very forgiving. Note for urbanites: cured smoked hams can also be used but best is to use at least 60% fresh pork - cheap cuts are fine.
Ingredients are listed per 70 lb meat.
| 4-5 | whole fresh onions or 16 oz grandulated. Avoid using too much. |
| 1 3/4 lb | salt |
| 4 oz | ground white pepper (important - Black is not really a good substitute) |
| 2 oz | ground allspice |
| 2 lb | dry powdered milk -or- 5 cups soya protein (eg. up to 20 cups milk powder) |
| 10 lb | ice cold water or 1 gallon of ice cold milk (1 imp gallon = 1 1/5 USA gallons = 4 litres (close enough)) |
| 30 lb | peeled raw potatoes |
| 50 lb | boneless pork (this can be simply ground pork) |
| 20 lb | boneless beef (this can be simply ground beef) |
Grind meat, potatoes and onions through a 3/8" plate. Mix in the water and spices. Garlic may also be added to taste. If so the garlic should be thoroughly ground and the easiest way is in a blender with some of the water.
Stuff into hog casings. Because of the protracted cooking time, lamb casings are not recommended.
Note this is a very perishable product. Potatoes should be kept submerged in water to prevent oxidization and should be ground and mixed into meat quickly for the same reason.
Freezing is the best way to preserve this product.
Best method of cooking is to simmer in water in a covered skillet for about 30-45 minutes then brown. Frozen product does not need to be defrosted before cooking, Serve with eggs and toast for breakfast.
[edit] References
Above recipes were derived from Great Sausage Making Recipes and Meat Curing by Rytek Kutas. An updated version of this book is available. Search by author. This book is highly recommended.
