Rohtas, India
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Rohtas, India actually refers to a location in Pakistan, home of the Rohtas Fort.
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[edit] Overview
Rohtas Fort is situated near Jehlum in Pakistan. Just about 20 kilometers from the famous fort, the ruins of "Tilla Jogian" are situated atop a hill. No research is available in literature to place the ruins on a historical time1line; in other words, it is not known who, when and why built the temples, residential quarters and extensive water works that go by the name Tilla Jogian today.
Since no record exists of Tilla Jogian from the era of or after Sher Shah Suri--the emperor who made Rohtas Fort famous, it can be concluded that by Suri's time, the site had already lost most, if not all of its religious and sociopolitical significance. While no attempt to scholarly date the site has been made, it can be surmised that this historical site would have seen its prime in days several hundred years before that of Suri (who ruled Rohtas Fort in around 1500 AD).
The site gets its name from the legend of Heer-Ranjha. It is said that Ranjha used to spend his time as a love sick animal atop the hills of Tilla Jogian when his affair with Heer was not seeing the best of its days--that's an entirely different story, but if there's any truth to it, it can provide us some clue to the origins of the ruins of Tilla Jogian.
It is said that Ranjha became a Jogi (ascetic) when he discovered the Tilla (hill) of Jogi Gorakhnath while he was wandering the villages of Punjab in a state of despair and heart-break. Could it be that the Tilla Jogian or hill of ascetics refers to a complex of temples built under the auspices of the Nath tradition of Hinduism, in the days of the great Baba Gorakhnath in around 11th century or 12 century AD (or even 8th century when some believe Gorakhnath to have lived)?
[edit] The ruins
Ostensibly, Tilla Jogian comprises of a complex of hindu temples housing at least three baths and a network of waterworks with at least two minor dams. The ancient stone pathway leading up to the highest temple are still intact and are still the only way to get to Tilla Jogian. By mere observation it can be deduced that the complex of temples was home to a population of religious elite, at least in hundreds; the lifestyle practiced here was one of luxury and affluence. Though no record can easily be found of the ruin's purpose and position in history, it can be ascertained that this would have been a site of at least some religious significance in its prime.
In the middle of the palace is the Aina Mahal, where the chief wife of the Man Singh lived. The grandest structure within the palace is however the Takhte Badshahi, where Man Singh himself resided: a four-storied building, with a cupola on top. On the second floor is an assembly hall and a gallery resting on strong, engraved stone pillars. The third floor has a tiny, cupola which opens into the women’ quarters. From the fourth floor one can get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area. The governor’s residential quarters were on the first floor which has linked to the ladies’ rooms via a gateway in the east. Also within the palace precincts, a little to the west of baradari or the hall of public audience is an assembly hall, probably the diwan-e-khas or the hall or private audience. This is decorated with engravings of flowers and leaves, and rests on similarly decorated pillars.
Outside the palace grounds are the Jami Masjid, Habsh Khan’s mausoleum and the makbara of Shufi Sultan. According to exerts, the beautiful stucco style, with the cupola resting on pillars, are reminiscent of the Rajputana stuyle where the domed structures are known as chhatris. Though this style had previously not been seen in Bengal and Bihar, its emergence at Rhotas was not surprising since more than half the fort’s guardians hailed from Rajputana. About half a kilometer to the west of Man Singh’s palace is a Ganesh temple, which, with its sanctum facing two porch-ways and tall imposing superstructure, resembles the temples of Rajputana (Rajasthan) , especially those seen at Ossian (near Jodhpur) built in the 8th century and the Mira Bai temple of the 17th century at Chittor. Further west one comes to the edge of the fort, where some construction must have taken place even though there is no written evidence of what stood here. But the local folk call it the Hanging House…the drop here is a sheer 1500 feet, straight down with no obstacles on the way. Hearsay has it that at this spot is the mouth of a cave, where a Muslim fakir (mendicant) is buried. It is said that he was thrown into the ravine from here, three times, and each time in spite of being bound hand and foot, the fakir escaped unhurt. Finally he was interred in the cave. About a mile and half north-east of the palace are the ruins of two temples. One is the Rohtasan, a temple of Lord Shiva. The roof and the main mandap (pavilion) which housed the sacred lingam were probably destroyed by iconoclasts, all that remains now are the 84 steps which lead to the temple constructed by king Harishchandra – the Devi mandir. Capped by domes, here too the idol of the deity is missing, though the rest of the building is in good condition.
Today, an aura of impregnability surrounds the ruins of Rhotas which had earlier made it a formidable obstacle for the enemy to overcome. The founder of the fort certainly chose the site with foresight. Rhotas was constructed on a plateau atop a hill with steeply rising sides. The steps leading to the fort cut into limestone of the hill were uncomfortably high. Many streams traversed the plateau, the soil was fertile and the crops easily grown, so the inhabitants of the fort could hold out for months even years against an enemy besieging the fort. The hill was surrounded by forest. Wild animals and dacoits provided other natural and man-made barriers. Thus the fort could not be taken by force but only by deceit and cunning. The Rohtas Fort was constructed on a plateau over the top of a hill with steeply rising sides. The steps directing to the fort cut into limestone of the hill. Many streams crossed the plateau and the soil was productive, which help in easy growth of the crops, so that the inhabitants of the fort could hold out for months against an enemy besieging the fort. Forest and wild animals surrounded the hill and dacoits provided other natural and man-made barriers. Thus the fort could not be taken by force but only by deceit and cunningness.
When compared with the ease with which other Indian forts can be reached, Rohtas still requires quite a bit of extra effort. What the iconoclasts left undestroyed is being destroyed be the most relentless foe of all, nature. In the years to come, when wind and rain and sun have done their work…may be a few scattered mounds of earth and rubble will remain, together with a whisper of memories of a once formidable fort…
[edit] History
The history of Rohtas is a long and chequered one. From old texts and inscriptions found near Rohtas, it appears that the fort was in the possession of the Hindu king Pratapdhavala of the Japla dynasty. Other inscriptions mention that it was ruled by the Khayarwala clan who were sovereigns of Shahbad (the area now known as Bhojpur and Rohtas). Historians are of the opinion that the Hindu kings of Rohtas did a lot of construction – a road through the jungle leading from the foothill to the plateau, the fortifications on the jungle roads, plus the four gates on the four ghats. The main fortifications at the Raja ghat and the Katauthiya ghat can still be seen. Apart from a matrix for making seals belonging to the 7th century king Sasanka, all other artifacts are from the time of Sher Shah Suri onwards.
[edit] 1500s
The fate of Rohtas took a turn in 1539 when it fell out of the hands of the Hindu kings into those of Sher Shah Suri. At war with the Mughal emperor Humayun he had just lost the fort at Chunar and was desperately trying to gain a foothold for himself. Sher Shah made a request to the ruler of Rohtas that he wanted to leave his women, children and treasure in the safety of the fort, while he was away fighting in Bengal. The king agreed and in the first few palanquins there were women and children but the later ones the wily Sher Shah had substituted with fierce Afghan soldiers, who captured Rohtas, forcing the Hindu king to flee. During the Sher Shah’s reign the fort was guarded by 10000 armed men under the command of one of his trusted general, Haibat Khan Niazi. Haibat Khan Niazi built the Jami Masjid in 1543 AD, which lies to the west of the fort and is made of white sandstone, consisting of three domes. Another monument of this time is a mausoleum, perhaps of the daroga (superintendent of works) of Sher Shah, Habsh Khan.
Then in 1558, Rohtas saw the rule of Man Singh, Akbar’s Hindu general, who made it his political stronghold. Northern India had been under Mughal rule, in contrast eastern India was highly unstable, with the various kings putting up resistance against the Mughals. Man Singh as governor of Bengal and Bihar made Rohtas his headquarters in view of its inaccessibility and other natural defences. He constructed a beautiful palace for himself, which is still in a fairly good condition, repaired the rest of the fort, cleared the ponds and made gardens in Persian style. The palace was constructed in a north-south direction, with its entrance to the west with barracks for soldiers in front. The main gate is known as the Hathiya pol or elephant gat…named after the figures of the behemoths which decorate it. It is the largest of the gates and was made in 1597.
[edit] 1600s
After the death of Man Singh, the fort came under the jurisdiction of the office of the Emperor’s wazir (Prime Minister) from where the governors were appointed. In 1621, the Prince Khurram (later Emperor Shahjahan) revolted against his father Jehangir, and fled to the safety of Rohtas, where the guardian of the fort, Saiyyad Mubarak handed over the keys of Rohtas to the prince. Once more, Khurram tried to win avadh, but lost the battle of Kampat and again sought refuge in Rohtas. It was here that his son Murad Baksh was born to his wife Arjumand Bano who later became as famous as Mumtaz Mahal. During Aurangzeb’s reign the fort was used as a detention camp for those under trial and for housing prisoners sentenced for life.
[edit] 1700s, 1800s
Once again the fortunes of Rohtas changed. In 1763 in the battle of Udhwa Nala, the Nawab of Bihar and Bengal – Mir Kasim, lost to the British and fled with his family to Rohtas. But Mir Kasim’s luck was out and he fared no better at the fort. Finally the Diwan of Rohtas, Shahmal handed it over to the British Captain Goddard. During his two month stay at the fort, the captain destroyed the storeroom and many of the fortifications. When Goddard left he put some guard in charge, but they too left after a year. Perched on a plateau where the fertile land and abundant water supply once supported 10000 matchlock men, Rohtas was now empty. There was peace at the fort for the next 100 years or so, which was finally shattered during the time of the First War of independence in 1857. Umer Singh, the brother of brave Kunwar Singh together with his companions took refuge here. There were many encounter with the British where the latter were at a disadvantage, for the jungles and the tribals in them were of great help to the Indian soldiers. Finally, after a long drawn out siege and many skirmishes, the British overcame the Indians.
[edit] Sources
- Fort of Rohtas, from Indiaprofile.com