Realization (climb)

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Realization, also known as Biographie, is a sport climb in Ceüse, France. While not having been graded by its first ascensionist (Chris Sharma in July 2001), it is generally considered to be the world's first 5.15a or 9a+.

The "true" name of this route is somewhat controversial: Routes in the United States are typically named by the first ascensionist (Chris Sharma), whereas these rights are customarily entitled to the person who first bolted the route in France. Chris Sharma was the first person to climb the full route (5.15a/9a+) and gave it the name "Realization." Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the first "pitch" of the route in 1989 and named it Biographie. Some people consider "Biographie" to be the first, easier route (8c+/5.14c, first climbed by Arnaud Petit) and Realization to be the full extension. Others refer to the entire route as Biographie. Sylvain Millet [1], for example, argues that the first "pitch" is really more of a "half-route" that flows naturally into the rest, and as such, deserves one name (Biographie).

Realization has been repeated by Sylvain Millet [2] (May 2004) and Patxi Usobiaga [3] (July 29, 2004).

Actually, before Realization, two other climbs had been given grades of 9a+ or harder. They were Akira (9b) in France by Fred Rouhling and Orujo (9a+) in Spain by Bernabé Fernandez, but some controversy existed with these climbs.

Realization is a pure endurance challenge, and Dave Graham has been quoted as saying that the toughest move on the route is V10/11. (Source: http://www.bigupproductions.com/ in the Extras section.)

It has also been asserted that Realization might be so difficult because of other factors including the climb being possible only in the afternoon.

It has been described as a "beautiful line", and Sharma professes to have fallen in love with it.

Incomplete list of proposed 9a+ routes or harder:

  • Orujo FA by Bernabe Fernandez.
  • Akira (9b) FA by Fred Rouhling.
  • Realization FA by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Sylvain Millet and Patxi Usobiaga.
  • Flex Luthor FA by Tommy Caldwell.
  • Flat Mountain FA by Yuji Hirayama.
  • Chilam Balam (9b+) FA by Bernabe Fernandez.
  • La Rambla original FA by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. Repeated by Edu Marin on 11/30/06 and Chris Sharma on 12/01/06.
  • Violent New Breed FA by John Gaskins.
  • Definicion de Resistencia Democrata FA by Dani Andrada. Repeated by Tino Lois.
  • La Novena Enmienda FA by Dani Andrada.
  • Coup de Grace FA by Dave Graham.
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