Petticoat

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Madame de Pompadour in an elaborately embroidered gown with matching petticoat, 1760s
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Madame de Pompadour in an elaborately embroidered gown with matching petticoat, 1760s

A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing for women; specifically an undergarment to be worn under a skirt, dress or sari. The petticoat is a separate garment hanging from the waist (unlike the chemise).

  • In historical contexts (sixteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries), petticoat refers to any separate skirt worn with a gown, bedgown, bodice or jacket; these petticoats are not strictly speaking underwear as they were made to be seen.
  • in both historical and modern contexts, petticoat refers to skirt-like undergarments worn for warmth or to give the skirt or dress the desired fashionable shape. In this context a petticoat may be called a waist slip or underskirt (UK) or half slip (US), with petticoat restricted to extremely full garments. Petticoat can also refer to a full-length slip in the UK,[1] although this usage is somewhat old-fashioned.
  • Petticoat is the standard name in English for any underskirt worn as part of non-Western clothing, as with the sari.

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[edit] History

Woman of Wensleydale wearing a bedgown and petticoat, 1814
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Woman of Wensleydale wearing a bedgown and petticoat, 1814

The practice of wearing petticoats as undergarments was well established by 1585. Petticoats were worn throughout history by women who wanted to have the currently fashionable shape created by their clothing. The petticoat(s), if sufficiently full or stiff, would hold the overskirt out in a pleasingly domed shape and give the impression of a smaller waist than the wearer actually had. It would also complement the desired large bust. The voluminous, layered Victorian petticoats were not worn to hide the legs, as twentieth century commentators later claimed; they actually enhanced the stylish figure in the centuries before female attractiveness was defined in large part by how much naked leg was revealed, as has been the case since 1960.

Elaborately decorated petticoats were worn under open-fronted gowns and looped overskirts from the mid-sixteenth century. Eighteenth century petticoats of wool or silk were often quilted for additional warmth and were worn with matching short gowns or jackets, which could be fashioned like a man's jacket with military details and trimmings. These ankle-length petticoats remained a rural fashion, especially in the UK, into the nineteenth century and are a part of Welsh national dress.

[edit] Modern petticoats

Petticoats were revived by Christian Dior in his full-skirted New Look of 1947 and tiered, ruffled, stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular during the 1950s, especially with teenage girls. Most of the petticoats were netlike crinoline, sometimes made of horsehair. Increasingly, nylon chiffon, taffeta, and organdy were used in petticoats. Many department stores carried an extensive variety of styles and colors of petticoats until the early 1960s.

Famed designer Edith Head designed a number of gowns and dresses, supported by multiple layers of petticoats, for actresses such as Grace Kelly and Doris Day, who appeared in Alfred Hitchcock films in the 1950s.[2] Dinah Shore frequently wore dresses with petticoats on her NBC television shows.[3] Actress Connie Stevens, who appeared in television series and movies, said she wore petticoats as long as possible because she had wide hips.[4]

Grace Kelly in a gown designed by Edith Head for Rear Window (Paramount Pictures
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Grace Kelly in a gown designed by Edith Head for Rear Window (Paramount Pictures

By the middle of the 20th century, the full petticoat was somewhat rare, having been commonly replaced by simple, ungathered underskirts/waist slips (UK) or half slips (US). However, petticoats were still worn for proms and weddings.

Ruffled white or unbleached cotton petticoats were a brief fashion under Prairie skirts in the 1970s, and remain a component of Western wear. Short, full petticoats in the 1950s style are also commonly worn by squaredancers.

Lately the full, tiered petticoat has made a small come-back in the alternative subcultures, especially the gothic and Lolita subculture. Various petticoats have also been used in films and musicals dealing with the 1950s, such as Grease, West Side Story, Peggy Sue Got Married, and Back to the Future, as well as occasional vintage rock music festivals, especially in Germany. Although the traditional purpose for the petticoat is no longer in fashion, the general design has stayed the same with minor alterations including ripping and/or the usage of bright or generally non-traditional colors.

Also, people who dress in period costumes have began wearing petticoats for a more authentic look.

[edit] Asian petticoats

A petticoat is the main undergarment worn with a sari. Sari petticoats usually match the color of the sari and are made of satin or cotton.[1], A notable difference between the western petticoat and sari petticoat is that the sari petticoat length is rarely shorter than ankle length.

[edit] References

  1. ^ Oxford English Dictionary (1989) "A light loose undergarment .... hanging from the shoulders or waist"
  2. ^ American Movie Classics
  3. ^ www.youtube.com, NBC archives
  4. ^ Interview with Connie Stevens, reported in www.pettipond.com
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