Paxi

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The natural port of Gaios, created by the islet Pontikonisi (center) resembles a fjord. Panoramic view of both entrances: Islet and monastery of Panagia to the North (left) and main settlement to the center and South (right).
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The natural port of Gaios, created by the islet Pontikonisi (center) resembles a fjord. Panoramic view of both entrances: Islet and monastery of Panagia to the North (left) and main settlement to the center and South (right).

Paxi (Greek: Παξοί, Paksi) formerly known as "Paxos" and sometimes pronounced "Paxoi" (wrongly - the diphthong disappeared from Greek a long time ago), is the smallest of the Ionian Islands (the Heptanese). In fact in Greek it is a plural form and it refers to a complex of islands, the largest of which are Paxi and Antipaxi (a smaller nearby island famous for its wine, which is unfortunately almost impossible to purchase in shops or tavernas, and two of the finest sandy beaches in the Ionian Sea). In Greek mythology Poseidon created the island by striking Corfu with his trident, so that he and wife Amphitrite could have some peace and quiet.

Although possibly inhabited from prehistoric times, the Phoenecians are traditionally held to have been the first settlers on Paxi. The name is believed to be derived from Pax which meant slate in their language.

The Romans ruled the island from the 2nd century BC, and during the Byzantine period and Middle Ages it was constantly attacked by pirates. After various rulers and Crusaders had passed through, the island was taken by the Venetians at the end of the 14th century.

During the Napoleonic wars the Ionian Islands were taken by the French, a Russo-Turkish alliance, and finally by the British, who established the Ionian Union in 1815. In 1864, together with the rest of the Heptanese, Paxi was ceded to the Greek state.

The island is approximately eight miles in length and tipped up towards the west. The west coast is dominated by steep white, chalky cliffs that are greatly eroded at sea level, and harbour many 'blue caves' which can be explored on launches departing from Gaios. Much of the attractive landscape is still covered in olive groves. These stretch from Lakka, the harbour community in the north, through Magazia to Gaios, the capital. Olive oil making, soap manufacture and fishing were supplanted by tourism as the main industry in the mid sixties, resulting in a construction boom which has greatly altered the coastline around Gaios, the 'capital' of the Paxiot demos (community). There are ferry and jetfoil connections daily with Kerkyra and with the mainland at Parga, as well as a regular seaplane service to Corfu Town in the tourist season. Excursions to Albania (the resort of Saranda and the magnificent Greco-Roman settlement of Butrint) can also be arranged with the local jetfoil operators. Larger ferries still stop offshore on their way down through the Ionian chain of islands.

Gaios: North entrance of the port.
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Gaios: North entrance of the port.

Among recent well known semi-permanent British inhabitants were Audrey Good, former commander of the UN refugee bases in Epirus following the Greek Civil War, actor Peter Bull (author of 'It Isn't all Greek to me') and actress Suzannah York, who can often be spotted in one of the Loggos tavernas during the summer. Some members of the Agnelli family (of Fiat fame) have recently built a palatial holiday home - complete with faux medieval tower - on a small island (Kaltonisi) situated near the southernmost tip of Paxi, close to the popular beach of Mongonissi. The presence of such residents, and the relentless development of the coastal area (mostly by Italian nationals) explains why Paxos has now become one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in Greece. One of Loggos's landmarks, the so-called 'Manor House' was put on sale for 1.6M€ in 2006.

Paxos is part of a European network called Cultural Village of Europe. It hosts a yearly classical music festival (founded by John Gough, and now organised by the Guildhall) which has built a solid reputation over the years, and now attracts some of Europe's finest young performers. This festival usually takes place in late August/early September. Concerts are held in the now-disused school of Loggos.

Gaios: South part of the port.
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Gaios: South part of the port.
  • Inhabitants: Paxiot s., -s pl.

Contents

[edit] Communities and settlements

  • Antipaxos (nearby island)
  • Apergatika
  • Argyratika
  • Dalietatika
  • Gaios (seat)
  • Gramatikeika
  • Lakka (second biggest settlement)
  • Longos (third biggest settlement)
  • Magazia
  • Makratika
  • Ozias
  • Platanos (or Fontana / Fountana)
  • Porto Longos
  • Velianitatika (or Veliantatika)
  • Vlachopoulatika
  • Zenebissatika

[edit] Getting there

The island is serviced by jetfoils and ferry boats from the mainland Greece port of Igoumenitsa (1.5 hours), speed-boats from Corfu (1–1.5 hours) and high-speed ferriesfrom Bari and Brindisi (4 hours). There is no airport but there is a privately owned seaplane service (7 minutes from Corfu town).

[edit] General Information

Paxos is a quiet haven away from it all and it is an ideal place for families and people who want to enjoy quiet holidays. It is also very popular with ramblers in the spring and early autumn, when the hilly landcaspe bursts with the colours of heather and cyclamen. It is a rocky island and there is not a single place where one cannot see olive trees. Its most vibrant place is the capital Gaios, which boasts 2 discos and a dozen bars. There are another two main villages, the picturesque harbours of Logos and Lakka, where the best tavernas are to be found. High season however is short, lasting usually from 28th July to 25th August. Most visitors come from Italy and seem to occupy the island in August.

[edit] Dialect

In Paxos they speak a dialect which resembles that of Corfu and has a similar prosody. It is heavily influenced by Italian. There is a glossary of Paxiot expressions one can refer to.

[edit] Accommodation

There is no shortage of accommodation in the island and visitors will have no problems finding a place to stay (unless they visit during the peak season without having booked in advance). There are three hotels and numerous rooms and villas for rent. You can contact the owners of rooms and villas directly from the following sites http://greece.paxos-villas.com, http://www.paxos.tk and http://www.paxos-greece.com (which also provide a lot of general information as well as links to alternative accommodation).

[edit] External links

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Municipalities and communities of the Corfu Prefecture
AchilleioAgios GeorgiosCorfu (city)EsperionFaiakesKassopaiaKorissiaLefkimmiMeliteieisPalaiokastritsaParelioiPaxoiThinali
EreikoussaMathrakiOthonoi


Coordinates: 39°12′N 20°10′E