Paul Poiret

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Paul Poiret (20 April 1879, Paris, France - 30 April 1944, Paris) was a fashion designer based in Paris before the First World War, during the Belle Epoque. He was taken on by the fashion designer Jacques Doucet as a draughtsman. When he completed his apprenticeship with the House of Worth in 1904 he opened up his own fashion house, and by 1905-07 had producted a revolutionary style. Poiret was the first designer to break away from the soft shades of the late Edwardian style, amd used vibrant primary colours. "It was," he declared, in My Fifty First Years "in the name of Liberty that I proclaimed the fall of the corset and the adoption of the brassiere which, since then, has won the day. Yes, I freed the bust, but I shackled the legs." This , of course, is a reference to his creation of the 'hobble' skirt. He also was famous for designing luxurious oriental and Art Deco gowns. He was the first couturier to launch his own perfume (named Rosine after his eldest daughter) and he also launched the suspender belt, flesh-coloured stockings and culottes, and introduced the modern brassiere. He also presented the first sheath and sack dresses.

It is important to note that Poiret's signature was the rose - it served as a decorative element on his designer label, and it shows up from time to time on his creations (lapels and elsewhere). It was his signature, and most often designated a piece of which he was particularly proud. Paul Iribe, a graphic artist and jewelery designer was hired to design Poiret's label, which was a simple rose drawing accompanied by the text, "Paul Poiret a Paris."

Poiret was notorious for throwing lavish parties, and plays featuring his designs. Such famous parties, as, "The Thousand and Second Night" (based on The Arabian Nights), on June 24, 1911 hosted over 300 guests required to dress up in 'Oriental' costuming. In cases in which guests attended improperly attired, they were requested to either outfit themselves in some of Poiret's 'Persian' outfits, or leave. In 1909, Raoul Dufy was commissioned by Poiret to design stationery for the house, and also designed textile patterns used in Poiret's garments.