Hem

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For other uses, see Hem (disambiguation).

To hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel.

A hem is also the edge of cloth treated in this manner.

The hem may be sewn down with a line of invisible hem-stitch or blind-stitch or sewn down by a sewing machine, usually leaving a visible line of sewing. Modern sewing machines can make many decorative or functional stitches, so the number of possible hem treatments is large. Machines can also sew a reasonable facsimile of a hem-stitch, though the stitches will usually be larger and more visible. Most haute couture hems are sewn by hand for this reason.

Heavy material with deep hems may be hemmed with what is called a dress-maker's hem — an extra line of loose running stitch is added in the middle of the hem, so that all the weight of the cloth does not hang from one line of stitching.

The term hem is also extended to other cloth treatments that prevent raveling. Hems can be serged (see serger), hand rolled and then sewn down with tiny stitches (still seen as a high-class finish to handkerchiefs), pinked with pinking shears, piped, covered with binding (this is known as a Hong Kong finish), or made with many other inventive treatments.

[edit] Hem repair

Hem Repair Tape
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Hem Repair Tape

Hems are often ripped, and require repair.

The usual method of repairing ripped hems is to resew them. Many stores sell tiny "sewing kits" with scissors, needle, and thread, to be used for minor repairs. Such kits may do as an immediate fix (as will safety pins) but the hem may have to resewn later, with matching thread.

An item called "hem repair tape" can also be used. The hem repair tape is placed inside of the hem, then ironed. The heat of the iron melts glue on the tape and the hem is glued shut. Sewing professionals do not like this method, as the glue can stiffen the fabric and make the hem hang badly. This kind of repair can also be difficult to remove later.

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