Heligoland

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For other uses, see Heligoland (disambiguation).
This article is about the island Heligoland. For the article about the landscape Helgeland in Norway, see Helgeland.

Heligoland (German: Helgoland; Heligolandic: deät Lun) is a small German archipelago in the North Sea.

Formerly a Danish and British possession, the islands (population 1,650) are located in the Heligoland Bight (part of the German Bight) in the southeastern corner of the North Sea. They are the only German islands not in the immediate vicinity of the mainland and are approximately two hours' sailing time from Cuxhaven at the mouth of the River Elbe.

In addition to German, the local population are ethnic Frisians who speak the Heligolandic dialect of the North Frisian language called Halunder.

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[edit] Geography

Birdseye view, Heligoland, Germany
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Birdseye view, Heligoland, Germany

Heligoland is located 70 km (44 miles) from the German coast line and actually consists of two islands: the populated triangular-shaped 1 km² (0.4 sq mi) main island (Hauptinsel) to the west and the Düne ("dune," Heligolandic: de Halem) to the east. While the former is what the place name "Heligoland" normally is used to refer to, the latter is somewhat smaller (0.7 km²), lower, surrounded by sand beaches and not permanently inhabited.

The main island is commonly divided into the Unterland ("Lower Land," Heligolandic: deät Deelerlun) at sea level (to the right on the photograph, where the harbour is), the Oberland ("Upper Land," Heligolandic: deät Boperlun) consisting of the plateau visible in the photographs and the Mittelland ("Middle Land") between them on one side of the island; the latter came into being in the course of the "Big Bang" (see below).

The main island also features small beaches in the north and the south and drops down to the sea 50 metres (about 160 feet) in the north, west and southwest. In the latter, the ground continues to drop underwater to a depth of 56 metres below sea level. Northwest of the island proper Heligoland's famous landmark is found: The Lange Anna ("Long Anna" or "Tall Anna") which is a free standing new red sandstone rock (or column), 47 metres high and weighing about 25,000 tonnes.

The two islands were connected until 1720, when the natural connection was destroyed by a storm flood. The highest point is on the main island, reaching 61 metres (about 200 feet) above sea level.

Although culturally closer to North Frisia in the German district of Nordfriesland, the two islands are part of the district of Pinneberg in the state of Schleswig-Holstein. The main island has a good harbour and is frequented mostly by sailing yachts.

[edit] Climate

Heligoland sports a very healthy offshore climate, being almost free of pollen and thus ideal for allergics. Since there is no land mass in the vicinity that could cool down too much in the winter time, it hardly gets colder than -5 °C (23 °F) in any year. At times, winter temperatures can be higher than in Hamburg by up to 10 °C (18 °F) because cold winds from Russia are weakened. While spring tends to be comparatively cool, autumn on Heligoland is often longer and warmer than on the mainland and statistically, the climate generally is sunnier.

Due to the mild climate, figs have been grown on the island since the 1920s - there still is an old mulberry tree in the Upper Town.


[edit] Geology

Lange Anna
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Lange Anna

The island of Heligoland is a geological oddity; the presence of the main island's characteristic red sedimentary rock in the middle of the German Bight is unusual. It is not known to form cliffs anywhere else along the North Sea coast. The formation itself is from the early Eocene geologic age. It is younger than and layered on top of a much thicker bedrock of white chalk, the very same which is well known to form the white cliffs of Dover in England, and cliffs of Danish and German islands in the Baltic Sea. In fact, a small chalk rock close to Heligoland, called the whitte klippe (white cliff) is known to have existed within sight of the island to the west till the 18th century, when storm floods finally eroded it to below sea level.

Heligoland's rock is significantly harder than the postglacial sediments and sands forming the islands and coastlines to the east of the island. This is why the core of the island, which a thousand years ago was still surrounded by a large, low-lying marshland and sand dunes and separated from coast in the east only by narrow channels, has remained to this day, although the onset of the North sea has long eroded away all of its surroundings. A small piece of Heligoland's sand dunes remains — the sand isle just across the harbour called Düne, which today holds Heligoland's airstrip.

[edit] Flag

Current flag of Heligoland
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Current flag of Heligoland

The Heligoland flag is very similar to its Coat of arms. A tricolour flag with three horizontal bars, from top to bottom: Green, Red and White. Each of the colours has its symbolic meaning. Green symbolises the land, red symbolises the edge (the red cliffs of Heligoland) and white symbolises the sand. This in German is the motto of Heligoland:

Grün ist das Land,
rot ist die Kant',
weiß ist der Sand,
das sind die Farben von Helgoland.

[edit] History

Flag of the British Administration of Heligoland, 1807-1890
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Flag of the British Administration of Heligoland, 1807-1890

The German Bight and the area around the island is known to have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Tools made of flint have been recovered from the bottom of the sea surrounding Heligoland.

In AD 697, Radbod, the last Frisian king, retreated to the then single island after his defeat by the Franks - so written in the Life of Willebrord by Alcuin. By 1231, the island is listed as the property of the Danish king Valdemar II. From then until 1714 ownership switched several times between Denmark and the Duchy of Schleswig, with one period of control by the Hanseatic City of Hamburg. In August 1714 it was captured by Denmark, and in 1807 it was seized by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. It became a center of smuggling and espionage against Napoleon. Thousands of Germans fled to Britain and to the King's German Legion via Heligoland. During the period when Heligoland was a British possession, it became a famous seaside resort. As it was British nearly every important writer from Germany and even Austria enjoyed the freedom of the sparely ruled island (Heinrich Heine). It was a refuge for revolutionaries of the 1830 and 1848 German revolutions.

Birdseye view, Helgoland, Germany, ca. 1890-1900
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Birdseye view, Helgoland, Germany, ca. 1890-1900

Britain gave up the islands to Germany in 1890 (by virtue of the Heligoland-Zanzibar Treaty) and also gave up its interests in Madagascar to the French, in return for those countries surrendering their claims to the African island of Zanzibar (now a part of Tanzania), largely so the British could intervene there to suppress the slave trade. A "grandfathering"/optant approach prevented the Heligolanders (as they were named in the British measures) from forfeiting advantages because of this imposed change of status.

Heligoland during World War I.
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Heligoland during World War I.

Under the German Empire, the islands became a major naval base, and during the First World War the civil population was evacuated to the mainland. The first naval engagement of the war, the Battle of Heligoland Bight was fought nearby in the first month of the war. The islanders returned in 1918, but during the Nazi era the naval base was reactivated. Lager Helgoland, the Nazi labour camp on Alderney was named after the island.

During the Second World War the islanders remained on the main island. There was a large allied air raid on the island on 15 October 1944, destroying many of the buildings of the Unterland; then, on 18 April 1945 over a thousand Allied bombers attacked the islands leaving nothing standing. The civil population was protected in rock shelters, most of the 128 people killed being anti-aircraft crews. The islands were evacuated the following night.

From 1945 to 1952 the uninhabited islands were used as a bombing range. On 18 April 1947, the Royal Navy detonated 6,800 tonnes of explosives in a concerted attempt to destroy the island ("Big Bang" or "British Bang"); while aiming at the fortifications, the island's total destruction would have been accepted. The blow shook the main island several miles down to its base, changing its shape (the Mittelland was created). In 1952 the islands were restored to the German authorities, who had to clear a huge amount of undetonated ammunition, landscape the main island, and rebuild the houses before it could be reinhabited.

Heligoland is now a holiday resort and enjoys a tax-exempt status, and consequently, much of the economy is founded on sales of cigarettes, alcoholic beverages and perfumes to tourists that visit the islands.

Also, there is a search and rescue (SAR) base of the German Navy on Heligoland (German SAR #10).

[edit] Trivia

  • Heligoland nearly perfectly matches the description of the island in the North Sea that hosts the wizard prison Azkaban in the Harry Potter universe.
  • Anton Bruckner composed a large scale choral work based on text about Heligoland.
  • The first bomb dropped on German soil during the Second World War landed here on 3 December 1939.
  • There is a special section (§50) in the German traffic laws (Straßenverkehrsordnung [StVO]) disallowing the use of automobiles and bicycles on the island. No other region in Germany has any exceptions to the general laws in the StVO. (The section in German).
  • Heligoland was formerly called Heyligeland, or "holy land," possibly due to the island's long association with the god Forseti.
  • "Heligoland" was a previous designation of the sea area German Bight for the purposes of the Sea Area Forecast [Shipping Forecast] on the British Broadcasting Corporation between 1949 and 1956

[edit] See also

[edit] External links

[edit] Further reading

[edit] Papers

  • L'explosion d'Heligoland. - Discussion des observations effectuées à Uccle, C. Charlier, 1947, Ciel et Terre, Vol. 64, p. 193.
  • Results of Seismic Observations in Germany on the Heligoland Explosion of April 18, 1947, 1951, Reich, H.; Foertsch, O.; Schulze, G. A. Journal. Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 56, p.147.

[edit] External links

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