Gulf of Kotor

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Map
Infos
Name: Gulf of Kotor
Бока которска
Boka Kotorska
Position: Montenegro
Rivers: Karst hydrology, Sopot, Skurda
submerged sources
Destination: Sea
Settlements: Kotor, Herceg Novi,
Risan, Tivat,
Dobrota, Perast
Records: Largest bay in the Adriatic,
submerged river canyon
(Bokeljska reka)
Numbers
Water Area: 87 km²
Max depth: 60 m
Average depth: 27.3 m
Water content: 2412, 306 km³ (2,4 mrd m³)
Highest point: Orjen = 1894 m
Lowest point: Sea surface = 0 m
Length: 28,13 km
Widest point: 7 km
Narrowest point: 0.3 km
Hydrologic system: karst hydrology ca. 4000 km²
Shoreline: 107.3 km
Images

The Gulf of Kotor (Serbian: Бока которска Boka Kotorska; Italian: Bocche di Cattaro) in western Montenegro, is a winding bay on the Adriatic Sea. The gulf, sometimes called Europe's southernmost fjord, is in fact a submerged river canyon of the disintegrated Bokelj River which used to run from the high mountain plateaus of Mount Orjen. It is an important tourist attraction in Montenegro.

The gulf has been inhabited since antiquity and has well preserved medieval towns. The picturesque towns of Kotor, Risan, Perast and Herceg Novi are - along with their natural surroundings - major touristic attractions.

The religious heritage of the land around the gulf — its numerous Catholic and Orthodox Christian churches and monasteries — makes it one of the major pilgrimage sites of the whole region.

Contents

[edit] History

The nearby hamlet of Risan (Risano) was a thriving Illyrian city called Rhizon as early as 229 BC and gave its name to the gulf, then known as Rhizonicus Sinus. Rhizon submitted to Rome in 168 BC, at the same time that Ascrivium, or Ascruvium, the modern Kotor (Cattaro), is first mentioned as a neighboring city.

Kotor itself has been fortified since the early Middle Ages, and was one of the more influential Dalmatian city-states throughout the period. It later passed to Bulgaria and then to Serbia before becoming a semi-independent republic and protectorate of medieval Serbian kings. Its merchant fleet and importance gradually increased, and after the fall of Serbia to the Ottoman Empire in the late 14th century, Kotor was seized by the Venetian Republic.

The Gulf of Kotor within the Kingdom of Duklja in the 12th century
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The Gulf of Kotor within the Kingdom of Duklja in the 12th century

The Bokelj's had a very strong fleet, which counted as many as 300 ships in the 18th century. The gulf was a rival to Dubrovnik and Venice.

At the beginning of the 19th century the region around the Gulf of Kotor was included in the Illyrian provinces, which were a part of the French Empire. The region was later conquered by Montenegro with Russian help by Episcop of Cetinje Petar I Njegoš and in 1813 a union of the gulf area with Montenegro was declared.

In 1815, the gulf was annexed by the Austrian Empire (Austro-Hungary since 1867) and was included into the province of Dalmatia (part of Cisleithania since 1867).

According to 1818 data, the area had 29,899 inhabitants, of whom 21,310 were Orthodox Christians and 8,589 Roman Catholics. At that time municipalities with an Orthodox majority were Kotor, Risan, Grbalj, Budva, and Herzeg-Novi, while municipalities with a Catholic majority were Dobrota, Prčanj, Stoliv, Kontada kotorska, and Perast.

In 1848 the Serb National Guard of Kotor refused the proposition of Petar II Petrović Njegoš to unite with Croatia-Slavonia, stating that Serbs have to be unified first before uniting with other Slavs.

The population of the municipalities of Boka in 1900:

  • Budva = 5,526 Orthodox Christians, 1,537 Catholics
  • Herceg-Novi = 7,377 Orthodox Christians, 2,198 Catholics
  • Kotor = 7,617 Catholics, 7,207 Orthodox Christians
  • Risan = 4,020 Orthodox Christians, 1,385 Catholics

According to the 1910 census, the Gulf of Kotor area had 40,582 inhabitants, of whom 24,794 were Orthodox Christians and 14,523 Catholics.

Historic map of the Gulf of Kotor, 16th century
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Historic map of the Gulf of Kotor, 16th century
 Gulf of Kotor within the Kingdom of Dalmatia in Austria-Hungary
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Gulf of Kotor within the Kingdom of Dalmatia in Austria-Hungary

From 1918, the Gulf of Kotor was part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929). Between 1918 and 1922 the region was a separate county administered from Kotor, between 1922 and 1929 it was part of Zetska oblast, and between 1929 and 1941 part of Zeta Banovina. According to the 1921 census, Boka had 36,539 inhabitants, of whom 23,777 were Orthodox Christians and 12,342 Catholics.

The region of the Gulf of Kotor was occupied by fascist Italy in 1941, and since 1945, it has been part of the Republic of Montenegro.

Today, most of the inhabitants of the region are Orthodox Christian declaring themselves on census forms either as Serbs or as Montenegrins, while about 11% of its population is Catholic, mostly declaring themselves as Croats.

The Gulf of Kotor region is under the protection of UNESCO due to its very rich cultural heritage. In 1979 there was an earthquake that destroyed or seriously damaged numerous cultural monuments.

[edit] Population

Most inhabitants of the Gulf of Kotor area are Serbs (41.89%) and Montenegrins (34.68%) with some Croats (7.61%). As a result of assimilation, the population of Croats began to diminish when Yugoslavia was created in 1918 and especially after the civil war in Croatia in 1991 (In 1910, the Croat population of the region was 18.9%).

The three municipalities making up the Gulf of Kotor region have a total population of 71,443 (2003 census):

  • Kotor = 23,481 (11,002 Montenegrins, 7,197 Serbs, 1,842 Croats)
  • Tivat = 13,991 (4,911 Serbs, 4,126 Montenegrins, 2,761 Croats)
  • Herceg-Novi = 33,971 (17,818 Serbs, 9,651 Montenegrins, 831 Croats)

Of these, 76% are Orthodox Serbs and 11% are Catholics.

[edit] Ethnic groups in Boka

[edit] Serbs and Montenegrins

Slavic and Serb tribes settled around the Gulf of Kotor in the 7th century. The region was divided between Travunians (who were a Serb tribe) and Docleans (of whom it is not explicitly stated that they were Serbs in origin, but later they were also considered to be Serbs).

When the autonomous Serbian Orthodox Church was established in the 13th century, one of its first eparchies was established in Boka.

Historically, there were 3 Orthodox monasteries and 250 Orthodox churches in the area, most of which still exist.

[edit] Serbian organizations in the 19th and early 20th centuries

  • Serb Library in Herceg Novi from 26 June 1899
  • The Palace of the Serb Gathering, built in Kotor as a three-story house, 1838;
  • Serb Vocal Society "Jedinstvo", founded in Kotor, 1839;
  • Serb Library, founded in Kotor in 1838 renamed in "Slavic Library" in 1849, to gather Croats, * Slovenians and Czechs together with Serbs;
  • Serb People's School under the jurisdiction of the Church, founded in Kotor, 1848;
  • Serb Memorial Music School, founded in Kotor, 1854;
  • Serb National Guard, founded in Kotor, 1862;
  • Serb National Charity Society "Saint George", founded in Kotor, 1868;
  • Serb Orthodox School, founded in Kotor, 1869;
  • Serb Orthodox Episcopate, established in Kotor, 1870;
  • Schematism of the Serb Orthodox Diocese of Boka Kotorska and Dubrovnik, annual, first time appeared in print in Kotor, 1874;
  • Serb Tamburitza Orchestra, founded in Kotor, 1895;
  • Serb Memorial Women Primary School, founded in Kotor, 1893;
  • Serb Music, founded in Kotor, 1897;
  • Serb Workers' Cooperative, founded in Kotor, 1899;
  • Serb Credit Union, founded in Kotor, 1901;
  • "Jedinstvo" joined Union of Serb Vocal Societies in 1903;
  • Serb Falcon Society, founded in Kotor, 1910;
  • Serb Primary School, founded in Morinj, 1803;
  • Serb People's School, founded in Gornje Selo in 1804. Later, after that school Gornje Selo will be named Srbina;
  • Serb People's School under the jurisdiction of the Church, founded in Risan, 1844;
  • Serb Library, founded in Morinj, 1845;
  • Serb Savings Bank, founded in Herceg Novi, 1850;
  • Serb Memorial Maritime School, founded in Srbina near Herceg Novi, 1852;
  • Serb Magazine, annual, founded in Risan, 1896;
  • Serb Workers' Society, founded in Herceg Novi, 1900;
  • Serb Hotel, built in 1900 in Herceg Novi;
  • Serb Credit Union, founded in Herceg Novi, 1902;
  • Serb Collective Farm, founded in Kamenari, 1902;
  • Serb Credit Bank, founded in Herceg Novi, 1904;
  • Serb Collective Farms were founded in 1904 in Kameno, Mokrin, Glavati, Glavaticici, Prijeradi and Radovici;
  • Serb Library, founded in Kamenari, 1910;
  • Serb Falcon District of the Littoral, founded in Herceg Novi, 1912;
  • Serb House in Herceg Novi and Serb Library in Risan acted before 1912, but there were no records when they had been founded.

[edit] Croats

The towns of Kotor, Perast, Tivat, Dobrota, Prčanj, Herceg-Novi and Budva had a Roman Catholic majority in 1910. Vrmac peninsula and the southern part of Spich (from Sutomore to the border between the Gulf of Kotor and Montenegro near the town of Bar) had an absolute Catholic majority in 1910.

Censuses of Roman Catholic Serbo-Croatian municipalities from 1931:

  • Kotor: 3,006 Catholics, 2,090 Orthodox Christians
  • Dobrota: 675 Catholics, 575 Orthodox Christians
  • Muo: 483 Catholics, 97 Orthodox Christians
  • Prčanj: 584 Catholics, 169 Orthodox Christians
  • Tivat: 2,726 Catholics, 482 Orthodox Christians
  • Perast: 1,103 Catholics, 322 Orthodox Christians

For example, the number of Catholics in the cities of Kotor dropped from 69% in 1910 to 7% in 1991; in Herceg-Novi from 70% to 2%; in Tivat from 95% to 23%.

In 1893, the Croatian Home (Hrvatski dom) was opened in Kotor.

In 1991 Croats comprised 8% of the Gulf of Kotor, and in 2003 the percent of Croats was 7.61%.

The Bokelj Marine 809 (Bokeljska mornarica 809) is a fraternal society whose aim is to preserve Croat maritime tradition. In 809 the remains of St. Tripun were brought by Croat mariners from Asia Minor to Kotor. The Cathedral of St. Tripun in Kotor is the oldest Croat cathedral in this area, built by Croats in 1166.

It is worth mentioning that the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (consisting of Serbia and Montenegro) participated at the international maritime exhibition EXPO'98 in Lisbon, Portugal, by displaying the cultural and maritime heritage of Boka Kotorska. The display did not mention the Croats in the Gulf of Kotor region.

The town of Perast had an extremely difficult time in 1654 when the attacks of the Ottomans were especially dangerous. Their brave and successful defense of the Gulf of Kotor was the reason for the arrival of Petar Zrinski, a famous Croatian statesman, who also had numerous dramatic battles with the Ottomans. During his three-day sojourn in Perast he presented his legendary sword to the town as the sign of his recognition of their efforts to defend their homeland and to stop the expansion of the Ottoman Empire into Middle Europe.

[edit] Geography

Municipalities of the Gulf of Kotor (Kotor, Herceg Novi and Tivat) within Montenegro
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Municipalities of the Gulf of Kotor (Kotor, Herceg Novi and Tivat) within Montenegro

The gulf is composed of several smaller broad gulfs, united by narrower channels, forming one of the finest natural harbours in Europe. The gulf inlet was formally a river system. Very intensive tectonics and karstification processes led to the disintegration of this river. After heavy rain the famous waterfall of Sopot spring at Risan appears and Skurda, another well known spring runs through a canyon from Lovcen.

The outermost part of the gulf is the Bay of Tivat (Teodo) and a small naval port. On the seaward side, there is the Bay of Herceg Novi (Castelnuovo), which guards the main entrance to the Gulf of Kotor. The inner gulfs are the Bay of Risan to the northwest and the Bay of Kotor to the southeast.

On the landward side, the long walls running from the fortified old town of Kotor to the castle of Saint John, far above, formed a striking feature in the landscape; and the heights of the Krivošije (Krivoscie), a group of barren plateaus in Mount Orjen, were crowned by small forts.

There are many interesting places on the shores of the Gulf of Kotor. Herceg Novi has an Orthodox convent of St. Sava nearby (Savina monastery) standing amid beautiful gardens. It was founded in the 16th century and contains many fine specimens of 17th century silversmiths' work. Eight miles east of Herceg Novi, there is a Benedictine monastery on a small island opposite Perast (Perasto). Perast itself was for a time an independent state in the 14th century.

[edit] Climate

Meteorological station on Orjen in the hinterland of the Bay
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Meteorological station on Orjen in the hinterland of the Bay

The Gulf of Kotor lies within the Mediterranean subtropical belt. While summers are hot and sunny, autumn, winter and spring are rainy seasons. It is the climate type of the Mediterranean but modifications exist in the vast region. A peculiarity of the littoral Dinarids is the precipitation regime as at the Gulf of Kotor, Mt. Orjen receives Europe's most heavy precipitation. Just as the monsoon rain is seasonally distributed, so too November thunderstorms sometimes pour 2000 l of water in several days, while August is frequently completely dry, leading to forest fires. With a maximum discharge of 200 m³/s of water one of the biggest karst springs, the Sopot spring, is a remarkable indicator of this seasonal variation. Most of the time it is inactive but after heavy rain a remarkable waterfall appears 20 m above the Gulf of Kotor.

Station Height [m] Type Character Precipitation [mm] Snow
Zubacki kabao 1894 D perhumid Mediterranean snowclimate ca. 6250 ap. 140 days
Crkvice 940 Cfsb (fs= without summerdryness), perhumid Mediterranean mountain climate 4926 70 days
Risan 0 Cs’’a (s’’= double winter rain season), perhumid Mediterranean coast climate 3500 2 days

* classification scheme after Köppen

Two wind systems are noteworthy for their ecological significance: Bora and Scirocco. Strong cold downslope winds of the Bora type appear in winter and are most severe in the Bay of Risan. Gusts reach 250 km/h and can lead to a significant fall of temperatures in several hours with freezing events problematic for most of the Mediterranean cultures. Bora weather situations are frequent and sailors keep an eye on the mountains as cap clouds indicate an imminent Bora event. Scirocco is a warm humid rain and is important as it brings heavy rain. It appears throughout the year but is usually concentrated in autumn and spring.

Station Period Height [m] I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII I-XII [mm/m²a]
Herceg Novi 1961-1984 40 230 221 183 135 130 73 28 45 160 181 326 262 1974
Risan 1961-1984 40 405 342 340 235 153 101 66 123 188 295 423 434 3105
Grahovo 1961-1984 710 351 324 305 251 142 94 55 103 202 416 508 473 3224
Podvrsnik 1961-1984 630 407 398 367 305 151 101 77 132 238 465 593 586 3820
Vrbanje 1961-1984 1010 472 390 388 321 181 104 70 122 224 369 565 536 3742
Knezlaz 1961-1984 620 547 472 473 373 207 120 72 136 268 400 629 661 4358
Crkvice 1961-1984 940 610 499 503 398 198 135 82 155 295 502 714 683 4774
Ivan. Korita 1960-1984 1350 434 460 742 472 128 198 74 46 94 300 694 972 4614
Goli vrh 1893-1913 1311 271 286 307 226 188 148 75 70 215 473 415 327 3129
Jankov vrh 1890-1909 1017 424 386 389 346 212 124 55 58 202 484 579 501 3750
Cetinje 1961-1984 655 434 357 367 288 164 92 72 118 209 306 489 498 3394
Grab-Zubci 1934-1960 677 333 325 257 195 183 83 59 86 173 360 447 485 2985
Trebinje 1931-1960 276 193 190 160 102 119 70 43 76 110 239 247 249 1762
Dubrovnik 1931-1960 49 147 113 102 92 79 60 24 38 97 156 213 186 1307

* monthly and yearly precipitation ranges in Dalmatia, Herzegovina and Montenegro

[edit] Gallery

[edit] Literature

  1. Prof. Lazo M. Kostić, O srpskom karakteru Boke Kotorske, Herceg Novi, 1994.
  2. Vasko Kostić, Svetosavska ozarenost nevjeste Jadrana, Kult Svetog Save u Boki, Novi Sad, 1999.

[edit] See also

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[edit] External links

Coordinates: 42°26′N 18°38′E