Free climbing
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Free climbing is a style of climbing in which the climber uses no artificial aids to make progress upwards, but just hands, feet and other parts of the body. Equipment is used only for protection against the consequences of a fall. The term is used in contrast to aid climbing, in which equipment is used directly to make progress. Styles of free climbing include traditional climbing, sport climbing, some forms of solo climbing and bouldering. Free soloing is a type of free climbing where no rope is used for protection and falls would be disastrous.
Free climbing (aka rock climbing) "guidelines" from a U.S. perspective (Stonemaster's, et. al.) The adventure of exploring the unknown, living on the cutting edge of the possible and the impossible, and striving to go one better. In light of those ideals, the climbing community espoused a goal of never doing anything that sullies (makes less challenging in any way beyond personal improvement) a climbing route. The unofficial set of rules prohibited: Pre-inspection: looking at the route from the top down, on rappel, Hangdogging: resting on gear or the rope (the climber lowers and pulls the rope after any fall), pre-placing gear, pulling or stepping on gear, prior top roping of the lead climb, pretty much anything that would make the route less challenging than it was for the person who did the first ascent.
The ideal was and still is to climb the route first try on-sight as if the rope were not even there.
The above applies to all forms of climbing. Some rare people still apply all or most of the rules to sport climbing. (For the most part, sport climbing was created for people that don't like these rules.) The traditional climber only resorts to aid as a last resort to finish what he started. The aid climber strives to free climb as much of the route as possible.
[edit] Further reading
- How to Rock Climb, John Long