Corsehill, Lainshaw, Robertland and Dunlop

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Corsehill, Robertland and Dunlop are all in the old District of Cunninghame, now East Ayrshire. The area is famous for its milk and especially its cheese production from the Ayrshire, Cunninghame or Dunlop breed of cattle.

Contents 1 The Lands of Corsehill 1.1 Corsehill and Ravenscraig Castles 1.2 King's Kitchen 2 Corsehill Castle and King Malcolm Canmore 3 Murder at the Annick Ford 4 The Lands of Lainshaw 4.1 The Barony of Peacockbank 5 The Lands of Lochridge 6 The Lands of Robertland 6.1 Williamshaw 6.2 Merryhill 7 The Lands of Dunlop 8 Aiket Castle and Barr Hill 8.1 The Spectral Knight of Hessilhead and the Bride of Aiket 8.2 Craighead Law Hill 9 The Battle of Craignaught Hill 9.1 The Gemmels of Templehouse 10 The Lands of Hapland 11 The Thurgatstane or Ogrestane 11.1 The Monastic Settlement 12 Dunlop Church and the Picture House 13 The Carlin Stone or Hag Stone at the Common Crags 14 The Darien Affair 15 Miscellaneous Notes 16 Dunlop Church Gallery 17 References 18 See Also 19 External Links

[edit] The Lands of Corsehill

Godfrey de Ross was an early holder of the castle and lands of Corsehill, moving his seat here from the castle at Boarland (Borland) or Dunlop hill. The De Ross family are now represented by the Earls of Glasgow. Andrew Cuninghame, second son of Alexander Cunningham, 4th Earl of Glencairn, was the first of the House of Corsehill in 1532. He was a great supporter of the reform movement and had his lands forfeited, later returned. He died in 1545.

Cuthbert Cuninghame inherited and married Mauld Cuninghame of Aiket Castle. He had two sons, Alexander and Patrick, the latter being involved in the murder of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton. Patrick was murdered in revenge by the Mongomeries.

Alexander Cuninghame inherited and and married Marion Porterfield of Duchal. Alexander Cuninghame of Corshill was given the dignity of a Baronet in 1672. Sir David Cuninghame is the last of the family to be recorded as dwelling at Corsehill Castle (Pont 1876). In 1820 the lands included Bonshaw, High and Low Chapelton, Lainshaw (including Macbeth-hill (Magbie Hill?), Kirkwood, Sandielands, Bankend &c.), Gallowayford, and Corsehill. In 1832 Sir Thomas Montgomerie-Cuninghame of Corsehill and Kirton-holme (near Lanark) was the eighth baronet. The Montgomery-Cuninghame of Corsehill Baronets are still extant, with John Montgomery-Cuninghame of Corsehill and Kirton-holme, 12th. Baronet now representing the family.

[edit] Corsehill and Ravenscraig Castles

Some considerable confusion exists about the sites and naming of these castles in Stewarton. The name 'Ravenscraig' has probably arisen from 'Reuincraig' which is itself derived from 'Ruin Crag', i.e. rock / stone ruins, so it isn't so much a name as a description. We know from historical records about Godfrey de Ross and his family of Corsehill Castle, they were Lords of Liddesdale in the Borders and later on the Cunninghames became the holders. Corsehill (also Crosshill) castle is said to have been on the east side of the Corsehill Burn and only a few remains were said to exist to show its site, however the 1860 OS indicates no ruins of any description.

The 1860 OS map does record the site of Templehouse which had a small fortalice associated with it. Its site was at Darlington, the village which lay just beyond Stewarton on the Kingsford road before the East Burn. This area continued to be called Templehouses for many years after the stones were removed by local people for building purposes. Corsehill castle is shown in one old print of 1691 by Gross as Corsehill House and substantial remains existed until the railway was constructed and most of the ruins were used to build the embankment. The course of the burn was partly altered at this time. Armstrong's 1775 map clearly shows Corsehill as being on the east bank of the Corsehill Burn. The single tower that remains today (2006) of Ravenscraig / Corsehill was repaired to stabilise it and this gives it its unexpected appearance. The 1779 estate map of Lainshaw shows Corsehill as a relatively small property on the east bank of the Corsehill Burn, reached by a road branching off at Cocklebie, running across the top of what is now the Cunninghame-Watt Park and turning uphill to reach the house. An avenue of trees ran down to the town, however this was interrupted by some of the Cocklebie lands which were not planted up, although this may be a plan showing the remodelling of the estate still in progress. The ruined castle is shown as just the tower and is otherwise un-named. The area is called the Corsehill lands. The fine old sandstone bridge which carried the road up to Corsehil was demolished in the early 2000's. A local tradition was that the iron 'jougs' on it were for imprisoning witches, although it may be that these were linked to the Barony Court functions of the old Corsehill Barony (Brown 2006).

Ravenscraig and Corsehill Castles were separate entities, and a vague memory of Templehouse and its fortalice at Darlington on the lands of Corsehill farm, may have caused some extra confusion as in the King’s Kitchen tale of the location of the Baronial residence. An area opposite the site of Templehouses was known as 'The Castle' and this may reflect the existence of the castle or fortalice here (Hewitt 2006). An old road also crossed the river here and ran up to Robertland Castle and Nether Robertland (Lainshaw 1779). Many references can be found to Corsehill in old records, none for 'Ravenscraig', but several for 'Reuincraig', although as stated, this is very unlikely to be anything more than a description of a ruin that was also probably called 'Corsehill', 'ruined Corsehill', then 'reuinedcraig' and finally 'ravenscraig'.

Archibald Adamson in his 'Rambles Round Kilmarnock' of 1875 only records three castles, these being Robertland, Auchenharvie and Corsehill. He makes no mention of the name Ravenscraig, calling the site he visited Corsehill. Aitken only marks Crosshill Castle in 1829 on the west side of the Corsehill Burn. The first OS maps show only the existing castle site.

To sum up, the map in Pont's 'Cuninghame' of 1604-8 shows two buildings, "Reuincraige" and "Corshill", at approximately NS 417 467 and NS 422 465 respectively, and Dobie (1876) comments that the two have often been confused, but that "Reuincraig" stood on the W of the Corsehill Burn and "Corsehill Mansion" on its E. "Reuincraig", he says, was so modernised about 1840 that it was difficult to realise that it had been ruined in 1608, while the ruins of "Corsehill" were removed about the beginning of the 19th century and only foundations could be traced when he wrote. He also thought that "Reuincraig" (i.e. Ruin Craig) was not an original name. If Dobie is correct, the ruins published as "Corsehill Castle" on the OS 6", must be those of "Reuincraig", both because they are standing remains, and because they are on the W bank of the burn. Macgibbon and Ross, describing "Corsehill Castle" at the end of the 19th century as a very ruinous mansion, evidently of late date and apparently of the L-plan, and ascribe it to the period 1542-1700, must be referring to "Reuincraig". Grose, in 1791, published an illustration of "Corshill House", but does not give it a close siting. As, however, he mentions that "at a small distance from this ruin are some small remains of a more ancient building belonging to the same family", he is also probably referring to "Reuincraig", the "small remains" being those of "Corsehill". (Grose 1791); (MacGibbon) and (Ross 1889).

A tunnel is said to run from near Ravenscraig Castle down to the Annick Water just up stream of Lainshaw Castle. The tunnel was crawled through by the grandfather of a local man (Hewitt 2006). This tunnel may be related to the drainage of the nearby, flooded quarry, the Water Plantation area and other Lainshaw estate lands.

[edit] King's Kitchen

An old thatched cottage at the top end of Stewarton, on the road to Glasgow, had the name of "King's Kitchen Head", more recently called Braehead. It was nearly adjacent to the old baronial residence of Corsehill and was part of that barony. Further along the road is Kingsford and further along still is King's Well and the King's Stable. The story is told of a King who whilst on his progress of administering justice was given hospitality, for some long forgotten reason, at this cottage. The wife of the house begged the King for the life of her husband who was one of those to be tried by the King. The others were hung, but the King dismissed the husband with the admonition "to be a better bairn."(Dobie 1876).

[edit] Corsehill Castle and King Malcolm Canmore

This is a well known local story and one version given by Robert Cunninghame in 1740 in his manuscript, entitled the Right Honorable the Earl of Glencairn's family, is that MacBeth murders his cousin, King Duncan I. The king's son, Malcolm Canmore (big head in Gaelic) tries to reach temporary safe refuge in his castle of Corsehill (also Crosshill).

MacBeth's men were almost upon Malcolm when he sees a peasant, Friskin (or Friskine), turning hay in a barn (or pasture)nearby. Friskin hides Malcolm who then escapes to England with Friskin as a retainer. King Harthacanute of England and Norway gave them protection. When Harthacanute died his successor King Edward the Confessor gave Malcolm an army which permitted him to conquer Scotland and kill King MacBeth. The grateful King Malcolm III (1031 to 1093) gave Friskine the thanedom or Baillery of Cunninghame and the family took this name, together with the motto of 'Over fork over' which they retain to this day (Robertson 1908). It is also said that the Cunninghames were 'Masters of the king's horses' and that they took their motto from this position in the 'punning way' which is typical of the armorial bearings and mottos of many an aristocratic family.

In another version of the story, it is stated by Frederick van Bassen (Douglas 1764) who was a Norwegian historian, that the saviour of Malcolm was actually a Malcolm, son of Friskin, however in other respects the story is the same. This story does not fit with the historical record, however it is of ancient origin and a grain of truth must in some way relate it to real events.

[edit] Murder at the Annick Ford

The Baillieship of Cunninghame had long been in the hands of the Cunninghames, Earls of Glencairn, however at around the date of 1448 the crown conferred the Bailieship on the head of the House of Montgomerie (de Mon'Gubri), Earls of Eglinton. This act inevitably caused resentment and resulted in a bloody fued that ran on for centuries. At one point Kerelaw Castle was burned and the Earl of Glencairn retaliated by burning Eglinton Castle although the Earl of Eglinton had escaped to Ardrossan Castle, a formidible fortress until comparatively recent times when Oliver Cromwell had much of its stonework removed and shipped to Ayr to build his new fort. Edward Cuninghame of Auchenharvie was slain in 1526 and Archibald Cuninghame of Waterstoun in 1528 (Robertson 1891).

In April 1586, Hugh, 4th. Earl of Eglinton was travelling to Stirling to join the court having been commanded to attend by the King, accompanied only by a few domestic servants. He stopped at Lainshaw Castle to dine with his close relative, a Montgomerie who was Lord of Lainshaw and who's Lady was a Margaret Cunninghame of Aiket Castle, with sisters married to John Cunninghame of Corsehill and David Cunninghame of Robertland (Dobie 1876). It seems that a plot to kill the Earl as an act of revenge had been organised and the Lady, or some say a servant girl who was also a Cunninghame (Robertson 1889), climbed to the battlements after the meal to hang out a white table napkin and thereby spring the plot. Thirty Cunninghames attacked the Earl at the ford and cut his servants to pieces with swords and other weapons, the Earl himself being finally dispatched with a single shot from the pistol of John Cunninghame of Clonbeith Castle. His horse carried his dead body along the side of the river, still known as the 'Weeping', 'Mourning' or 'Widows' path. Kerr, with local knowledge, states that the site of the crime was recently (1936) built over by a factory, so the site of the ford in question may not have been at the entrance to the Lainshaw Estate at David Dale Avenue, but at the Kirk Ford instead. The murdered Earl was eventually taken to Lainshaw Castle, but in the meantime a wave of bloody revenge swept over Cunninghame and elsewhere. Cunninghame friends, relatives and adherents were killed without restraint.

The Earl of Glencairn showed his lack of involvement by taking no action against the Montgomeries and by leaving his kinsmen to the full weight of the law. Aiket was killed near his home; Robertland and Corsehill escaped to Denmark. Clonbeith was traced to a house in Hamilton and hacked to pieces by John Pollock of that Ilk. Clonbeith had hid within a chimney (Paterson 1866). Both Robertland and Corsehill were pardoned on the insistence of Queen Anne of Denmark upon her marriage to King James VI of Scotland, despite his earlier vow to bring them to justice. Robertland was employed as one of her Majesty's master stablers. The properties of the guilty parties had been confiscated and given to the Montgomeries, however the estates were eventually returned in ruinous condition.

Lady Margaret Montgomerie was said to have fled to Ireland, however it seems that she remained close by, living with an estate tenant, one Robert Barr and family at Pearce Bank farm, now High Peacockbank. She was eventually permitted to return to her husband and home, however she never again left the grounds of Lainshaw Castle and she avoided any contact with the Montgomerie family for the remainder of her days.

William Robertson relates a very different tale, stating that Cunninghame of Robertland spent two years developing a friendship with Hugh and despite warnings from the third Earl it eventually Hugh held Robertland in high esteem and close friendship, giving the opportunity for him to be caught off guard and cut down when attacked by sixty Cunninghame horseman. His servants had all left him to his fate. The site of this action is not recorded. Blair gives this version as well, stating that Cunninghame of Robertland was 'a very dear friend' and loved Earl Hugh 'as his own bedfellow'.

Robertson (1820) gives yet another, so called 'traditional' version, in which Cunninghame of Clonbeith is stated as being at best an accessary, although he is still caught and killed in Hamilton. Here the Earl is on his way to a visit to Robertland Castle, but stops first for a meal at Lainshaw. The Laird of Robertland tries to dissuade him from continuing his journey, but to no avail and on his way back from Robertland he is met and murdered by Cunninghame of Aiket at a place called the Windy-path in Stewarton. He was shot and although dying he was able to stay in the saddle until he reached the Annick Ford where he fell from his horse and expired immediately. The Windy-path has been called the Mourning-path since that day. The date of this event is given as 12-05-1589, a date that does not fit with the 1586 date of the first version given.

[edit] The Lands of Lainshaw

As the original seat of the Stuarts or Stewarts it was considered of much value and was bestowed by the Scottish Kings only as a special mark of favour. Mary Queen of Scots changed the spelling to 'Stuart' during here time in France to ensure that the french pronounced the name correctly. James, High Steward of Scotland inherited Stewarton in 1283. Robert III granted it to Archibald, Earl of Douglas and then took it back to bestow as a dowry on Elizabeth, the Earl's daughter, when she married John Stewart, Earl of Buchan. The lands reverted to the crown many times. Queen Mary presented the lands to Mary Livingstone, one of the famous 'four Marys', upon her marriage to John Sempill, son of Lord Sempill in 1565. John Knox referred to them as "John the Dancer and Marie the Lusty" (Dobie 1876). The Montgomeries obtained the lands shortly after.

One of the earliest references to Lainshaw, Langshaw or Langschaw is the grant of land to Alexander Home of Holme by King James in 1450. Castleton, Gallowberry, Whitelee, Crennachbrare, Robertland and Magbiehill (Magby Hill in 1775) were also included in the grant. Thomas Home inherited, but he died without issue and it passed to the Eglinton family, namely Neil or Nigel Montgomerie of Langshaw who was the second son of the first Earl of Eglinton. He was killed at Irvine in 1547 through the feud with the Mowats of Busbie and Lord Boyd. His son, John, married Margaret,daughter of Lord Boyd. John Montgomerie died without issue and his brother Neil became the third Laird.

When the 9th Laird, James,died in 1767 his eldest sister, Elizabeth inherited. She had married Alexander Montgomerie-Cuninghame of Kirktonholme, son of Sir David Cuninghame of Corsehill. Her second husband was J.Beaumont Esq.(Paterson).

The 10th Laird was their son, Sir Walter Montgomerie-Cuninghame, who lost a fortune as result of the American War of Independence. William Cunninghame of Bridgehouse and (afterwards Lainshaw), the 'Tobacco Lord', had made a fortune in America between 1748 and 1762. In 1779 he leased Lainshaw and proceeded to improve the Estate under an agreement whereby the Montgomeries could reclaim the estate only if they could reimburse William for the cost of his improvements.

They were never able to do so. William's son, William Cunninghame the Younger inherited the estate in 1799 but did not take up residence until 1804. During his time the house was remodelled extensively. He was a religious eccentric, which led to various court actions and his publishing a wide range of eccentric books, including one against swearing. He never married, having heard his childhood sweetheart utter unacceptably bad language (Milligan & Barclay). On his death in 1849, the estate passed to his younger half brother, John,(Paterson) who in turn was succeeded in 1864 by his son William, a Captain in the 79th Highlanders (Jamieson) and married to Louisa Ormond. He had four sons and two daughters. He held the Crimea Medal, with clasps for Alma, Balaclava and Sebastopool, together with a Turkish Medal.

The estate map of 1779 shows a band of woodland running around the estate curtilage. This strip had a carriage-way running through its middle and this links with the ha-ha at the chalybeate spring field. Wide wooden bridges with stone abutments close to the Annick Bridge in Stewarton and close to the walled gardens allowed a complete circuit of the estate curtilage to be made. Only the abutments of these bridges remain. Near the main entrance is marked a building or buildings called 'Castle-salt', the reason for the name is not known. It could be that the name 'salt' is a corruption of another word, such as 'soiled' or 'soil', as in the 'night soil', i.e, the midden where the night soil was placed before being taken away for use as fertilizer. In the Laigh Kirk graveyard there is a memorial to Robert Cunningham, erected by James Cunningham of Castle-Salt in 1827. The land around Lainshaw Primary school was known as 'Picken's Park' and its trees were felled circa 1950, the trees being taken to Bickethall Farm for sawing, etc. Picken was a common local name at the time. Robertson records in 1820 that fields had been drained at considerable expense by filling ditches with stones.

In 1779 the estate farms included Gilmill, Kirkmuir, Righead, Parkside, Irvinehill, the Kilbryde Farms, Gouknest, Magbie-hill, Gaimes-hill, Bankend of Bollingshaw, Sandyland of Bollingshaw, Canaan and Clerkland. The rental income from the estate was £1628 per year, a considerable sum (Lainshaw 1779). James Kerr was the 'Baron Officer' at Lainshaw until his death on the 4th July 1880. His wife was Barbara Barclay and they were buried at the Laigh Kirk.

James Boswell of Auchinleck House, the famous biographer and friend of Dr. Samuel Johnson was married to his cousin Margaret Montgomerie in Lainshaw Castle.

James Forrest of Mid Lambroughton recorded the rare Bird's Nest Orchis and the Lesser Wintergreen plants as growing in the estate woodlands in the 1930's.

[edit] The Barony of Peacockbank

Dobie records that this Barony, called of old the 'Barony of Balgray' was given in Clare Constat by the Earl of Eglinton to Sir Neil Montgomerie in 1616. These lands included Fullwoods, Gabroch-Hills, Auchentibers, etc. Clare Constat was an instrument by which legal ownership of land is transferred. It is a deed executed by a subject-superior for the purpose of completing the title as his vassal's heir to the lands held by the deceased vassal. In 1820 John Deans is the proprietor of Peacock-bank, which had a rental value of £127 13s. 4d. and is given as being "remarkably well cultivated". James Dunlop gave the Barony of Peacockbank to his son Alexander upon his marriage in 1667.

Peacockbank Farm has seen many changes, with the coming of the railway with the impressive viaduct and the main road which was built very close to it. The course of the old entrance drive to Lochridge House was changed by the railway company and the original drive ran down past the old Tollhouse, on the site of the 'roads department' sand & salt store, to join the Irvine to Stewarton road has gone completely, apart possibly from the position of the gate. The field above was called 'Kiln Field', but no remains of any kiln still exist. The field bisected by the railway at the viaduct was known as 'Bonfire Field' and may have been used for Beltane fires, etc. Fore Croft Park ran up to Peacockbank from near the old mill. The field above Peter's Brae was called Rye Hill Park.

[edit] The Lands of Lochridge

Nether Lochridge or Lochrig belonged to the Arnots for nearly 400 years. Mathew Arnot Stewart, the last direct representative of the family, sold the estate to David Provan, a surgeon, in 1830 (Dobie 1876). Robertson (1820) shows an Upper Lochridge as well as Lochridge. This property seems to be at the site of what is now called Draffen House. Colonel Barns owned Upper Lochrig, part of Auchenharvie and Kirkland in 1820. A Hugh Wyllie who died on 22nd December 1823, aged 51, is recorded on his tombstone in the Laigh Kirk churchyard in Stewarton as having lived at Over Lochridge. Ward Head was farmed by Alexander Cameron and his spouse Janet Ingrwm in the early 18th. century. Alexander died on the 5th April 1761 and Janet passed away on the 20th May 1736, aged 50. They were both buried at the Laigh Kirk in Stewarton.

[edit] The Lands of Robertland

Robertland Castle was held by a cadet branch of the Cunninghames and is now a ruin with little more than a few stones and a motte visible. It was a Barony and David Cunninghame of Bartonholme was the ancestor of this family. David Cunninghame of Robertland, married to Margaret Cunninghame, took part in the slaying of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton at the Annick ford (see Murder at the Annick Ford). In 1526 James V gave Robertland to Henry Kempt, a favourite, however the lands were in the ownership of Lord Semple by 1556. Sir David Cunninghame was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia in 1630 and his son was a Commissioner of Supply. Diana Cunninghame was an only daughter of another Sir David. She married Thomas Cochrane of Polkelly and much of the estate was sold at around this time. After many more generations Sir William Cunninghame of Auchinskeith acquired the property through marriage to Margaret Fairlie of Fairlie (Paterson 1866).

In 1770 the lands and Barony were sold, including the Superiority of Halket, Hazelbank and Water-Land. A pigeon house was a feature of the mansion outbuildings and coal, lime and free-stone was easy to come by. The estate had been enclosed with hedges and ditches in about 1764 (Glag. Journ. 1770). Pigot gives Alexander Kerr Esq. as resident at Robertland in 1837, having puchased it and Haysmuir Farm in around 1822. He was a native of Stewarton who had spent some years in America, he was one of the 'Tobacco Lords'. He was married to Diana Barr (born 31st January 1786 & died 9th June 1868, aged 65) and he lived from 22nd March 1775 to 5th May 1847, dying at the age of 73 and buried at the Laigh Kirk in Stewarton.

Robertland House was designed in 1820 by David Hamilton (see Dunlop House) for Alexander Kerr. In March 1914 the house was empty and awaiting a buyer. Two suffragettes broke in through a conservatory window and set the building alight. The Fire Brigade had much trouble obtaining water and the front was burnt out. The rear wing and outbuildings were saved and the front was rebuilt. The suffragettes left two postcards indicating that this was done as revenge for acts carried out against Mrs.Emmeline Pankhurst and to help force the church to act independently against the state on this issue of votes for women (Milligan). The footprints were followed through the snow towards Fulshaw where they had parked a car and made good their escape.

The Estate was sold in 1913, consisting of 2243 acres, with 71 acres as woodland and 168 acres as moss, 26 farms were present, and shooting rights wer held for Glenouther Moor. Nether Robertland, Fulshaw, Clonherb, Broadmoss, Cauldhame, Braehead, Hairshaw, Lintbrae, Overhill, Burnfoot, Pokelly (East & West), Clunch (High & Low), Derclabboch and others were part of the Robertland Estate at the time of the sale. James Forrest of Mid Lambroughton was a noted botanist and he recorded the rare Adder's tongue Fern in the Swinzie Burn glen at Robertland in the 1920's.

In the Stewarton Laigh Kirk graveyard is an extraordinary tombstone memorial to Jane Watt, the spouse of Andrew Picken of Robertland, who died in 1857. The tombstone is horizontal, at least 8 foot by 5 foot and made of cast-iron.

[edit] Williamshaw

Aitken shows a Donaldson Esq. living here in 1829. The house is near to the village of Kingsford. Robertson in 1820 gives James Donaldson as the proprietor of part of the lands, with a rental value of £226.

[edit] Merryhill

Situated about a mile east of Stewarton, John Dalziel acquired Merryhill from Sir William Augustus Conynhghame of Livingstone in 1771. It was a part of the Barony of Robertland. John married Margaret, daughter of David Logan of Corsehill Mill (now the Millhouse Inn). David and James succeeded their father and Merryhill then passed into the hands of the Reids. William Reid, writer from Paisley owned the property in 1866. A 'mere' in Scotland is an unploughed strip of land, often on a hill or ridge, which acts as a march or boundary. In 1820 David Dalziel was proprietor of part of the lands at an annual rent value of £106.

[edit] The Lands of Dunlop

The name may be derived from the Gaelic words Dun - a castle and luib - a bend. Therefore it is the fortified hill by the bend in the river. A tradition states that the De Ross first held Boarland or Dunlop Hill as their seat and a well fortified structure existed there, later the seat was moved to Corsehill.

Mr. G. Howie, of Dunlop in 1856, stated that he remembered seeing a small portion of what was said to be one of the walls about 70 or 80 years ago. It was a sort of bank, quite crumbled down and overgrown with grass. Since then, the ruins of a building of considerable extent have been removed and the ground cultivated (Name Book 1856).

Pont states that the ancient strong Dunlop Castle situated by the Clerkland Burn was protected by a moat or fosse of water and had 'goodly' orchards. It was also called Hunt Hall because the Dunlops were huntsmen to the De Ross family (paterson 1866). The whole estate was sometimes referred to as Hunt Hall.

The De Ross family were vassal to the De Morvilles, Overlords of Cunninghame. The De Morvilles backed John Balliol's claim to the crown and forfeited their lands to the Boyds, later the lands were held by the Cassillis family.

The native chiefs, although displaced from Boarland Hill were not exiled, instead they established themselves at what is now Dunlop House. The name Boarland survives in the names of Borlandhills, Over Borland, North Borland and Low Borland. The name Boarland could refer to the presence of wild boar, however a 'boor' also meant a serf and Norman lords often apportioned lands near their castles for their servants (Bayne 1935).

The first recorded Dunlop is William de Dunlop of 1260, followed by a supporter of Edward I, Neil Fitz-Robert de Dulap of 1306. His estates were forfeited due to his support for John Balliol, as were those of the De Rosses. The family regained there lands by the mid 15th. Century and by that time we have 'of that Ilk' replacing the Norman 'de'. Sir James Dunlop of that Ilk held the estate in 1596 and married Jean, daughter of Somerville of Cambusnethan, descended from Lord Somerville (Bayne 1935). This may go some way to explaining why the Somerville family came to purchase lands at Montgomery-Crivoch and Bollingshaw in the 1800's to establish the Kennox Estate. Francis Dunlop was a witness to the disposition of the Scottish Regalia in Edinburgh Castle after the Union of the Crowns. James Dunlop of 1634-1670 married Elizabeth, daughter of Cunninghame of Corsehill and was an outstanding leader of the covenanters. John Dunlop 1748-1784 married the daughter of Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie. She was the patron of Burns already referred to. John Dunlop Esq. MP was resident at Dunlop House in 1837 and Pigot describes it as one of Ayrshires' handsomest mansions, with the Ogrestone or Thurgatstane lying within its estate boundaries. The house was designed in 1831-34 by David Hamilton for Sir James Dunlop of Dunlop. The house is an unusual Scottish-Jacobean style, but the gate lodge is more typical of Hamilton, with strap work, classical and manorial features (Milligan). The last Baronet was Major Sir James Dunlop of 1839-1858 who died unmarried.

The last of the Dunlop to be born at Dunlop were John (1904) and Alexander (1906) Houison Crawfurd. Mrs.Houison Crawfurd is remembered for producing the first tubercular-free cattle in Ayrshire. The house was let to a number of tenants, the Henderson family of the Anchor Line being the most notable. In 1933 the house was sold to Ayrshire County Council as a home for mentally defective children.

The Clerkland Burn rivulet runs past the mansion, dividing the parishes of Stewarton and Dunlop.

[edit] Aiket Castle and Barr Hill

This hill, near Aiket Castle, Ackett in 1775, had two beautiful small monuments on its top until the early 1800's. These structures were well built, with lime cemented stones and stood twelve feet high. Aiket Castle itself was a square tower typical of the the residences of the lesser barons, originally surrounded by a moat. The name is derived from 'Oak Wood'. The family were descended from the Cunninghames of Bedland, who were cadets of the family of Glencairn (Dobie 1876).

Alexander Cunninghame is the first recorded as living at Aiket. Robert Cunninghame seems to have been a very undesirable individual, killing Sir John Mure of Caldwell and his own wife attempted to poison him. He was implicated in the murder of the Earl of Eglinton, had all his property forfeited and was eventually shot dead on his own doorstep (Bayne 1935). His wife complained bitterly when the estate was eventually returned in ruinous condition. James Cunninghame was closely involved with the Darien scheme and accompanied the first expedition. On his return he was an armed opponent of the 1707 Union Of Parliaments. He lost so much on his various activities that he was forced to sell his estates.

Three Aiket daughters were married to participants in the tale of the murder of the Earl Hugh, two to Cunninghames and one to a Montgomery. In 1564 Cunninghame of Aicket is referred to as the 'Larde of Halkhede' (Rollie 1980).

[edit] The Spectral Knight of Hessilhead and the Bride of Aiket

Anna Cunninghame of Aiket was pledged to marry her true love, Henry Montgomerie of Hessilhead. They were to marry upon his return from the crusades, however Allan Lockhart, son of a neighbouring Baron began to pay increasingly frequent visits to the inmates of Aiket Castle. His courtship was in vain and he would have no success unless the Crusades were to claim Henry. After many more months had passed Allan decided to used trickery and eventually persuaded a footsoldier recently returned from the Crusades to tell the false tale of the death of Henry Montgomerie. The ruse was carried off with success and after a short while Allan pressed his attentions again and the marriage day was set. On that very day Henry returned to Hessilhead and discovered the treacherous act, however he fell from his horse on his way to claim his bride and died within minutes. At twelve o'clock midnight the wedding feast was halted abruptly by the figure of the fully armour clad Neil Montgomerie striding into Aiket Castle hall, lifting up the Lady Anna and then vanishing into the night. Neither soldier nor bride were ever found (Robertson 1889). The Lockhart, Loccard or Lockhard family are believed to have been the first owners of the Barony of Kilmarnock. Symington is named after a Flemish knight, Simon Loccard.

[edit] Craighead Law Hill

This Lea or Law hill, 687ft. high, in the Lugton area of Dunlop Parish is supposed to be a 'moot' or trial hill. The arrangement of stones on its summit does not appear to be accidental and a grass covered cairn is very noticeable. A farmer from East Halket (pronounced whoreket) removed one of these to facilitate his ploughing. One stone on the summit has a vertical hole drilled to the depth of four feet or so, presumably to be used for ‘slot’ for a flagpole or such-like. Near Aiket Castle is another Court Hill (Bayne 1935). Halket is called Hawkhead by Thomson on his map of 1832. A Halket Loch, now drained, is shown on the earliest maps.

[edit] The Battle of Craignaught Hill

This hill lies in the north-east area of the Parish of Dunlop. The name Craig (Rock) and Nochdta (Naked), together literally mean the 'Bare Rock' hill. On it was fought a singularly unusual battle between the Boyds of Kilmarnock and the Stewarts of Darnley. Sir Alan Stewart had been treacherously slain by Sir Thomas Boyd and his son Alexander Stewart was determined to take revenge. Sir Thomas was surprised on the 9th. July, 1439, whilst riding past Craignaught on their way north and although outnumbered he and his followers fought on, even taking agreed rest periods indicated by the sound of a horn. Eventually and inevitably Sir Thomas and a large number of his followers were killed. The results of this encounter led to killings and counter killings which involved a great part of the West of Scotland. Boyd's wife had dreamt all of that which came to pass and died of grief within days of her husband death (Robertson 1889).

[edit] The Gemmels of Templehouse

The Knights Templar are once again remembered in the name of this property, which since 1570 was in the hands of the Gemmil or Gemmel family. In 1596 Patrick Gemmil resigned the Templelands of Dunlop Hill into the hands of the Superior, Lord Torphichen, in favour of his eldest son. The Sandilands, Lords Torphichen are remembered elsewhere, such as Sandilands Farm near Kennox, although the farm name has now been changed to Bank End. The Gemmels still held Templehouse in the 1860's.

[edit] The Lands of Hapland

The name may be a corruption of Whaup Land, a whaup being a curlew. Prior to 1549 was part of the Estate of Dunlop. David Dunlop exchanged Hapland for the lands of Borland and in 1612 Patrick Cunninghame sold these lands to Gabriel Porterfield, son of Alexander Porterfield of that Ilk. Gabriel Porterfield of Porterfield in 1618 married Mariot Crawfurd and inherited the lands of Gills, Lothrihill, the Templeland and Maynes (Mains) of Hapland, including the mansion house. Gabriel Porterfield also took possession of Dunlop Hill, Wattirland (Waterland) and Halketh, with the loch (now drained). The Laird of Hapland was the ruling elder in the Parish of Dunlop in 1649 and was a captain in the Scots army when Cromwell was in Scotland, for which his lands were sequestrated. The last of the male line died when he fell off his horse when returning from Stewarton about 1765 or 1770. Lillias Porterfield married William Somerville of Kennox. Their youngest child, a daughter, married Colonel McAlester, Laird of Loup, in Kintyre. A descendent built Chapeltoun House near Stewarton. Hapland is near Dunlop. In 1820 the estate was of 200 acres and the proprietor was Lieutenant-General Alexander Trotter.

[edit] The Thurgatstane or Ogrestane

The Thurgartstone is just outside of Dunlop on the Lugton Road in the valley of the Black Burn. It is in a sheltered spot, with ample running water and well hidden from immediate view. In the middle of a field near the Chapel Crags is the Thurgatstane or Ogrestane, also known as the Thorgatstane, Field Spirit Stane, T'Ogra Stane, Thugart Stane, Ogirtstane, Ogart stane, Horgar Stane, Fiend's Stane or Thougritstane. It is a glacial erratic stone, composed of blue augitic porphyrite and is quite unlike the 'native' stone of the district, weighing about 25 tons and measuring about twelve feet by eight feet as measured above ground (Bayne 1935). It is set near the site of the pre-reformation St.Mary's Chapel and has long been associated with pagan ritual practices.

Few places have so many different names attached to them. One explanation is that the stone is 'Thor's Great Stone', another is that is "Thou Great Stone" or just '"grit stane" (Paterson 1866), whilst 'The Stone of the Ogre' may reflect some forgotten legend of how the stone came to be in this position. Some names may be spelling errors perpetuated by or from Ordnance Survey and other maps. Another explanation of the name is that it is derived from Tagairtstane, meaning the priest's stone. This 'Druidical' stone may have been a 'rocking or logan' stone at one time, but it is now firmly set in the 'rubbish' and soil. It is recorded that even as late as "the time of Popery" the devotees of that religion, in doing penance, used to crawl on their knees round this stone and cry, O thou grit stane from a belief that the Deity was in a peculiar manner present at that hallowed relic (MacIntosh 1894). Farmers from Brandleside Farm were bound to protect, by not removing it or ploughing within a set distance of the stone, presumably because of a tradition of pagan burials around this monument (Paterson 1866). Some recollections of May Day events being held at the site are current and the site is listed and protected by Scottish Heritage. A fine view of Dunlop or Boarland Hill, the site of Dunlop Castle once held by the De Ross family, can be seen from the stone.

[edit] The Monastic Settlement

The history of the monastic settlement and the chapel of Saint Mary at the Thurgartstone is a parallel example to the Chapel Hill site at Chapeltoun, where a Christian centre was established to eradicate the pagan significance of the site. Monastic cells, a chapel and a graveyard are all lost to view, constructed by the monks of Kilwinning, only the name 'St.Marys' given to the nearby 'modern' dwellings, built on the site of the chapel record past significance. Chapelhouse Farm is located beside the road nearby. The Holy Well still exists, the nearby houses pumping water up from its source. The water from the well used to run under the road and emerge in a trough surrounded by a metal fence. Only a concrete manhole indicates this trough now (2006). In 1856 the water for baptism in Dunlop Kirk was still drawn from this Holy Well (Name Book 1856).

The chapel can never have been very large and was abandoned at the time of the Reformation in Scotland led by the ex-Roman Catholic priest John Knox (1514 to 1572). The stones were robbed / mined by locals and the last remaining stones were taken away by a farmer in the 1830’s. It stood on a rock from which a beautiful stream of water gushed into a small rivulet, this originally being crossed by steps, called the Lady's steps before the Chapelhouse Bridge was built (Paterson 1866). The 1858 OS map locates the Lady's Steps near Hapland Mill on the Stewarton side of the town, crossing the Glazert. Patterson and Bayne, both local people writing in 1866 and 1935 respectively, place the steps at Chapel Crags. The first Statistical Account of Ayrshire also places the steps at Chapel Crags (Sinclair 1791 - 1799). It seems odd to name these steps after a chapel that is a significant distance away in another valley, so a cartographers error may explain the situation as redorded in the first OS Name Book. A field near the 'Druid Stone' is called Templecroft and the first Celtic ‘Culdee’ church may have been situated here, later replaced by the Roman Catholic Chapel. Ironically the pagan or Druidical stone is still there, but no sign of the Christian sites are visible, apart from the inconspicuous holy well in the field bordered by the burn.

[edit] Dunlop Church and the Picture House

The church was probably built in around 1766, however by 1834 it was dilapidated and demolition followed, resulting in the construction of the Dunlop parish church that we see today. Parts of the original building are in use as tomb stones. Barbara Gilmour, famous for introducing the production of Dunlop Cheese, is buried in the churchyard. Major McAlester of Kennox, then a heritor, obtained the 1792 bell and Miss McAlester and Mr.Charles G. S. McAlester returned it to the Kirk Session in 1935 to honour the centenary of the present church (Bayne 1935).

Hans Hamilton was the first protestant vicar of the church. His son James was created Viscount Clandeboye and Baron Hamilton for his many services to James VI in establishing and maintaining protestantism in Ireland. His five brothers also established estates in Ireland. A handsome mausoleum was constructed over their graves by James and this was so ornately painted and gilded in the Roman Catholic manner that it attracted the sobriquet of 'The Picture House'. It was much neglected and vandalised until in 1734 it was given some much needed repairs. The marble statues of Hans and his wife have now been removed to insdie of the church for their protection (2005).

Viscount Clandeboye also built and invested a school, now known as Clandeboye Hall and used by the church for events.

[edit] The Carlin Stone or Hag Stone at the Common Crags

On top of the Common Crags overlooking Dunlop and the Glazert is a large procumbent boulder known on the OS map as the ‘Carlin’s Stone or Stane’. A Carl is a commoner, a husband or in a derogatory sense, a churl or male of low birth. More commonly the name Carlin was used as a derogatory term for a woman meaning an 'old hag'. It is also said to be a corruption of the Gaelic word “Cailleach”, meaning a witch or the 'old Hag', the Goddess of Winter. This would therefore be the Witch’s or Hag's Stone, one of several in Scotland with this name. A local historian remembers the stone being called the Hag's Stone (Clement 2006).

Near 'Kirkhill' outside Stewarton are several Kilbrides. Bride , Brigit or St.Brigid was originally a Celtic Goddess linked with the festival of Imbolc , the eve of the first of February. She was the goddess of Spring and was associated with healing and sacred wells, therefore the antithesis of the Carlin. Carlin's Tooth is the name of a rock outcrop in the borders between Knocks Knowe and Carter Fell (Logan Mack 1926). Three farms named 'Carlingcrags' are to be found above Darvel in East Ayshire.

[edit] The Darien Affair

The Darien Company was an attempt by the Scots to set up a trading colony in America in the late 1690's, however the opposition from England and elsewhere was so great that the attempt failed with huge losses and great financial implications for the country and for individuals. Half of the whole circulating capital of Scotland was subscribed and mostly lost. In Cunninghame some examples of losses are Major James Cunninghame of Aiket (£200), Sir William Cunninghame of Cunninghamhead (£1000), Sir Archibald Mure of Thorntoun (£1000), William Watson of Tour (£150) and James Thomson of Hill in Kilmaurs (£100).

[edit] Miscellaneous Notes

The name Stewarton is said to derive from Walter, High Steward of Scotland to David I who lived here in the 12th. century. Robert the Steward, a direct descendent, became King Robert II (Kerr 1936). The town had 1800 inhabitants in 1820. Walter was the son of Alain who had been invited by Henry 1st. to live in England. He returned to Scotland with King David I in 1141.

Robertson in 1820 refers to Macbeth-hill as being part of the Corsehill lands. The site of this hill and the reason for its name is unknown. It may be that the Law Mount, with the interest taken in it by the Scottish royal family, could have been MacBeth Hill. Magbie Hill is another suggestion for MacBeth Hill.

Above Kirkwood near Dunlop is a property called 'Ravenslie', not far from 'Ravenscraig' castle (Robertson 1820). In 1820 David Cunninghame was the proprietor at a rental of £39 13s. 4d. Ravens are still found in the district.

In the 1600's Dunloppe had two fairs a year for the sale of dairy stock, one on the second Friday of May; and the other called Hallowday, on the 12th. of November (Dobie 1876).

In the 1600's Stuartoune had fairs on the first Thursday of January, the first Monday of May, and the last Wednesday of October. A weekly market on Thursdays is recorded as being not well attended (Dobie 1876).

In 1820 only six people were qualified to vote as freeholders in Stewarton Parish, being proprietors of Robertland (Hunter Blair), Kirkhill (Col.J.S.Barns), Kennox (McAlester), Lainshaw (Cunninghame), Lochridge (Stewart) and Corsehill (Montgomery Cunninghame). Dunlop had only two people qualified to vote by right as freeholders.

The Draffen Stone used to be located in a field near the house of the same name. Due to a housing development it has been moved to a site in front of Draffen House. It is not known whether this stone is merely a 'rubbing stone' for cattle or a menhir. It is not recorded by Historic Scotland.

Dunlop Cheese, a sweet milk cheese, was first made by Barbara Gilmour who went to Ireland to escape the covenanting prosecutions. Her stone cheese press was preserved at Hill Farm in the 1860's. The cheese became World famous and created a cottage industry with cheese merchants from Kirktoun buying up the cheeses and taking them to Glasgow for sale. The cheese making used up excess fresh milk and the coming of the railways reduced the need for cheese manufacture. Dunlop cheeses are still made at Clerkland Farm.

Dunlop had a cricket club near Mains of Aiket beside the railway.

Tam Giffen was reputed to be a warlock from the Dunlop Parish and many anecdotes are told of his marvellous doings in the 1860.

Braehead House in Stewarton is a rare example of a 'Bank' from the times when private houses were used, rather than purpose built premises. The windows of the strongroom still have their iron bars in place (Watt 2006).

The 'Stewarton Sickness' refers to the powerful religious revival that started in 1625 and continued to involve Stewartonians in strong religious attitudes until comparatively recent times (Kerr 1936).

Lainshaw Mill, below the raiway viaduct, was famous for the large Rowan Tree growing out of its chimney. The mill ceased grinding corn in the 1930's and was completely demolished in the second half of the 20th. Century after a disastrous fire, the fate of many an old mill. In the 1860 William Eaglesham was the miller, with his wife Helen Wilson. He died aged 70 and is buried in the Laigh Kirk graveyard.

The Lairds of Corsehill were the Deacons Heritable of the Bonnet Court of Corsehill which regulated the activities of the Stewarton bonnet makers.

David Dale was a native of Stewarton, born in 1739, son to a grocer in the town. He started life as a cowherd and went on to fame and fortune. He was brought up in a two story thatched house at the 'cross' in Stewarton (Shaw 1953). Given the strong weaving community in the town it is ironic that he set up his factory at New Lanark, amongst other places. He was very generous to good causes, giving away up to £50,000.

The first Corsehill Queen is said to be King Malcolm III's second wife, Queen Margaret, niece of Edward the Confessor of England. This Malcolm III , also known as Canmore, was also Lord of Corsehill (Kerr 1936). She was canonised and St.Margaret's Chapel is the oldest surviving building at Edinburgh Castle, Highlanders however called her the 'Accursed Margaret' (Best 1999).

Braikenheuch Hill is said to be the site of the death of one of the Cuninghames of Aiket, killed by a Montgomerie during the times of the feuds between these families.

A lime works existed near Lugton in 1829, as shown on Aitken's map of Cunninghgame.

One of the Lady Robertlands of Robertland Castle was a practical christian, mingling with the poor of the district, distributing alms and tending the sick.

Lady Elizabeth Montgomerie's ghost is said to haunt Lainshaw Castle, wandering the corridors wearing a green dress and carrying a candle. She was implicated in the plot that resulted in the murder of the Earl of Eglinton.

Dunlop Cattle are supposed to have originated here or within the parish, bred by Dunlop of that Ilk from improved stock from Holland in around 1550 to 1700 or later. The breed, also known as Cunninghame or Ayrshire cattle are pied, white and brown, short in leg, long in the horn, straight in the back: the bulls are fiery in temper and the cows are peculiarly placid and docile. They produce milk which is very high in butterfat (Bayne 1935).

It is an interesting point to note that the selective breeding of cattle was almost impossible before the enclosure of land by dykes and ditches in the 18th. Century, because prior to this the cattle were free to mix without much control from the farmer.

The Gaelic, An t-sagairt, the priest (See Thurgatstane), gave rise to the Scottish Name Taggart.

The Lainshaw viaduct was opened on August 3rd. 1868, but did not actually have track and trains running over it until March 1871.

Sherpa Tenzing was wearing a Stewarton balaclava when he set foot on the top of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary.

The 1779 estate map shows the Glebe meadows running down from the Laigh Church to the river and as far as the Old Stewarton Road at Kirkford.

In 1797 Magbie Hill above Stewarton has a field called 'Stone Field' which may record a standing stone now long destroyed. Coal pits are marked in the vicinity of Magbie Hill, possibly explaining the name, as 'mag' was a term used for poor quality coal. The nearby 'Water Plantation' was known as 'Magbie-hill Plantation'.

[edit] Dunlop Church Gallery

Carved stonework and a finial from the old kirk incorporated into the new church.

The tomb of Hans Hamilton and his wife, called the 'Picture House' because of the gaudy colours of the decoration within the tomb.

A tombstone made from carved stones taken from the old kirk

An old tombstone with skull, cross-bones and a timer.

[edit] References

• Adamson, Archibald R. (1875). Rambles Round Kilmarnock. Pub. Kilmarnock. P.156.
• Aitken, John (1829). Survey of the Parishes of Cunningham. Pub. Beith.
• Best, Nicholas (1999). The Kings and Queens of Scotland. Pub. London. ISBN 0-297-82489-9.
• Barclay, Alistair. The Bonnet Toun
• Bayne, John F. (1935). Dunlop Parish - A History of Church, Parish, and Nobility. Pub. T.& A. Constable, Pps. 10 - 16.
• Blair, Anna (1983). Tales of Ayrshire. Pub. Shepheard-Walwyn. ISBN 0-85683-068-2. Pps. 172-174.
• Brown, George (2006). Oral communication to Griffith, Roger S.Ll.
• Clement, R.D. (2006). Oral communication to Griffith, Roger S.Ll.
• Dunlop Parish. A History of Church, Parish and Nobilty. Pub. Edinburgh.
• Dobie, James (1876). Pont's Cunninghame. Pub. Glasgow.
• Glasgow Journal (1770). Thursday, Nov. 29th. & Dec. 6th.
• Grose, F. (1789-91). The antiquities of Scotland, 2v, London, Vol.2, P. 215.
• Hewitt, Davie (2006). Oral communication to Griffith, Roger S.Ll.
• Hill, D.O. (1840). The Land of Burns. Pub. Glasgow.
• Ireland, Kingsley. James Jamieson Letters 1854-65
• Kerr, T.Macfie (1936). The Bonnet Toun.
• MacIntosh, John (1894). Ayrshire Nights Entertainments: A Descriptive Guide to the History, Traditions, Antiquities, etc. of the County of Ayr. Pub. Kilmarnock. P. 195.
• MacGibbon, T. and Ross, D. (1887-92). The castellated and domestic architecture of Scotland from the twelfth to the eighteenth centuries, 5v, Edinburgh, Vol.3, P. 495.
• Mack, James Logan (1926). The Border Line. Pub. Oliver & Boyd. P. 215.
• Milligan, Susan. Old Stewarton, Dunlop and Lugton. Pub. Ochiltree. ISBN 1-84033-1437.
• Name Book. 1856. Ordnance Survey.
• Patterson, James (1866). History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. Pub. Edinburgh.
• Pigot (1837). The Directory for Ayrshire.
• Pont, Timothy (1604). Cuninghamia. Pub. J.Blaeu in 1654.
• Robertson, George (1820). Topographical Description of Ayrshire; more Particularly of Cunninghame: together with a Genealogical account of the Principal families in that Bailiwick. Cunninghame Press. Irvine.
• Robertson, William (1889). Historical Tales of Ayrshire. Pub. Glasgow & London.
• Robertson, William (1908). Ayrshire. Its History and Historic Families. Vols. 1&2. Pub. Ayr.
• Rollie, James (1980). The invasion of Ayrshire. A Background to the County Families. Pub. Famedram. P.83.
• Shaw, John (1953). Ayrshire 1745-1950. A Social and Industrial History of the County. Pub. Oliver & Boyd. P.37.
• Sinclair, Sir John (1791 - 1799). The Stastistical Account of Scotland. Ayrshire.
• Thomson, John (1828). A Map of the Northern Part of Ayrshire.

[edit] See Also

• Cunninghamhead
• Chapeltoun
• Lambroughton
• John Montgomery-Cuninghame of Corsehill
• Stones of Scotland
• House of Stuart

[edit] External Links

• [1] Details of the De Soulis, De Morville and other Cunninghame families.
• Thurgatstane Photo