Chebeague Island, Maine
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Chebeague Island is an island located in Casco Bay, Maine, 10 miles from Portland, part of the cluster of islands off the shores of the most southern typ of the state. These islands are sometimes referred to as "The Calendar Islands" because it was originally believed that there are about 365 islands; current estimtes range from 220 to 300. Great Chebeague will be part of the town of Cumberland until July 1, 2007, when it will be become the town of Chebeague Island. As of the 2000 census, the island had a year-round population of 356. The population increases to around 2,000 in the summer months.
In 2002 Chebeague Island explored secession from Cumberland, with whom they have been tied to for 184 years. The initiative gained traction after school district 51 considered closing the island elementary school. On April 5th, 2006, the island won independence from Cumberland after winning votes in the Maine Senate (31-3) and House of Representatives (131-1). The town of Chebeague Island will incorporate on July 1, 2007.[1]
Two ferry services provide transportation to the island. The Chebeague Transportation Company (CTC) makes the 15 minute run from Cousins Island, connected by bridge to Yarmouth. Casco Bay Lines also provides service on all mail-boat and other "down-bay" trips that travel beyond Long Island.
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[edit] History
The name "Chebeague" comes from a Native American word meaning "Island of Many Springs" (pronounced "sha-BIG" or "sha-BEEG" both are acceptable), as there are, indeed, many deep-running, underground fresh-water streams all over the island, in some places literally bubbling from the ground. Some Native Americans were still present after the European colonization of the area, as late as the 1870's. The native Americans did not dwell year-round on the island but paddled over by canoe during the summer months to fish. One can still notice areas of the island where clam shells are abundantly packed into the soil. This is mostly due to "shell piles" the indians regularly made after their meals. Original settlers in 1730 cleared much of the land for farming, and lobsters were so plentiful that they were not eaten, but rather used as fertilizer for fields. Great Chebeague was once home to the famous 'stone sloops' that carried quarried granite down the eastern seaboard, and marine contractors who built breakwaters, lighthouses, and set navigational markers.
[edit] Geographical features
[edit] Little Chebeague
Chebeague Island is known as "Great Chebeague," as it is not always a single landmass. The nearby island of "Little Chebeague" is accessible on foot, via a sandbar that appears at low tide. Being that there are many fresh-water underground springs and rivulets, low-tide exposed sandy areas such as the sandbar, or coves, often have "quicksand" zones that must be noted with caution. Little Chebeague, approximately 3/4 of a mile long, is uninhabited and mostly dense shrub and forest. Owned by the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, it is an undeveloped park where picnicing, camping and swimming are allowed, but no facilities are provided. Nearby Diamond Island also shares this low tide event of having a "great" and a "small" island classification.
[edit] Sand roads
Great Chebeague has a paved 2-lane main road ("North Road" and "South Road") that runs from end to end, somewhat in a loop, and the rest of the roads are sand, some of them dwindling down to just 2 ruts, one car wide. Most of these smaller roads simply terminate at points and beach spots. This makes passing an oncoming vehicle, while infrequent, very difficult. Most residents have "island cars" that they leave there year-round, that take the abuse of rutted back roads and brush that often overgrows into the roadway.
At approximately 5 miles long and 3 miles wide, Chebeague is the largest island in Casco Bay.
Despite being 10 miles from the city of Portland, it is still relatively unspoiled by development. However, this status has changed drastically since the early 1990's, breaking a many decades-long streak of little change in layout.
[edit] Notable events
In 1997, the people of Chebeague were a significant part of a movement that managed to overturn Nabisco's decision to discontinue the "Crown Pilot" cracker from their product line. Due to it being such a tradition with the islanders as an accessory to their consumption of soup, an organized effort was created to bring the oyster chowder cracker back. It was successful, so much so that not only was the Pilot Cracker made again, but it was turned into a media event, with Nabisco donating $1,000 to the Chebeague Historical Society. [2]
[edit] Wildlife and Nature
Deer, red fox, a variety of non-poisonous snakes, raccoons, frogs and toads, gray and black back gulls, loons and ducks are all creatures that can be seen on and about the island. Mosquitoes are more than a nuisance, and much of the island is soft, sandy, swampy soil (due largely in part to the many underground springs), perfect conditions for mosquito breeding. Not as much action is taken to keep their reproduction down as on the mainland, and a simple walk in the woods can turn into a run for one's life if not adequately clothed, or covered in repellent. Most people prefer screened porches for this reason.
Harbor seals can often be spotted from the shores of Chebeague, swimming or sunning themselves on the rocks of nearby uninhabited islands or on depth-marker buoys. Occasionally one might spot a porpoise breaking surface as well. Lobsters and lobstering are a big part of Casco Bay and the ocean surrounding Chebeague is dotted by thousands of lobster pot buoys, the livelihood of many year-round residents in the area. Lobstering is a big commodity of Casco Bay. Locals often fish from the docks and piers for mackeral, one of many abundant fish in the area, and crab traps hang from the docks.
[edit] Blueberries
All over the island, as Maine is often known for, are blueberry patches that supply an abundant amount of blueberries, ardently picked by the locals. However, they are slowly decreasing in size as land developement continues.
[edit] Clamming, Red Tide, and Poaching
The many inlet coves around the island are home to once-abundant clambeds. During low-tide, these fully exposed areas can be walked out on and were often clammed by the locals, and steamed clams were considered a staple food. Unfortunately, excessive clamming by restaurant suppliers trying to reach increasing demands have been done to such excess that the clambeds have not been able to recuperate sufficiently, closing down clamming entirely to everyone, often for several seasons. This does not thwart all attempts and illegal clammers can often be seen in early morning hours attempting to collect clams, regardless. Clamming is also often "shut down" when the Red Tide, a harmful microscopic ocean organism that affects shellfish, "blooms" in the area. Clams consumed, that are affected by the red tide (even steamed ones), can cause a person to become violently ill, and is sometimes fatal. This paralytic poisoning often causes death to not only humans, but birds, larval and adult fish and marine mammals.
For many years, mussels, which grow in clusters, attached via "beards" to rocks and seaweed, pier pilings, buoys, and just about any other stable structure in the ocean, were largely ignored as edible. But during the 80s and early 90s, when clams were getting more difficult to acquire, mussels suddenly began to be considered good eating. They are a bit more "gamey" in taste compared to clams but are quite similar otherwise, except that they could be reaped in much larger quantities, very quickly. Clams had to be dug up out of the sand, by hand, by an angled pick, and they very often withdrew deeper into their sand tunnel when they "heard" someone digging for them, making getting to one a backbreaking task that one had to put a lot of muscle and effort into. Even so, the clam shell may be broken during this furious dig, ruining it. Mussels, on the other hand, were simply literally lying about on the shore during low tide, and a good bucketful could be reaped in a matter of minutes. Even mussels have been reduced greatly in numbers due to marketing demands, and now they are often "grown" by mussel farmers on floating barges where they can be easily "picked" when correct size.
[edit] Ocean Geography, Tides, and Weather
Typically Great Chebeague has 8-9 foot tides under normal conditions. Ocean floor geography in the general area can vary drastically, thus careful navigation must be taken when boating, even in small vessels. Many islands, including Great Chebeague, have extended rock outcroppings that are completely underwater during high tide but may be lurking just below the surface as the tide drops, and may appear 3-10 feet out of the water during low tide. The rip tide can be several knots, and rowing against this is physically impossible, so extra care must be taken when venturing out in small watercraft. Even on the clearest day, a thick fog can suddenly "roll in" out of nowhere, reducing visibiity to zero.
Even during the warmest summer months, the ocean temperature is barely above 60 degrees. Falling out of a boat can be dangerous if not fatal, depending on the time of year. Swimming is enjoyed only by the brave, usually in inlets and coves where the water temperature is slightly higher, and off the pier or docks. Like most islands in the area, Chebeague has as much rocky cliffs for a shoreline as beaches. Most beaches are rough and rocky, strewn with driftwood, barnacle-covered rocks, and slippery seaweed. The sand itself is as much, if not more, shards of crushed shells, and walking barefoot can be daunting if not impossible. The "Niblic" beach by the boatyard and Deer Point by Chandler's Cove are popular beaches for their soft stretch of sand. On a clear day Deer Point, you can see Mount Washington. When the sun goes down, the temperatures can drop drastically, and even on the warmest summer days, nights are often very cool and can require long sleeves and pants and even a fire in the fireplace. Winters can be brutal, and usually by September most of the non-year round residents are packed up and gone.
[edit] Stores and Services
There is no cell phone service on the island. There is a post office and rural mail delivery, a boatyard, a church, a hotel (The Chebeague Island Inn) with restaurant, a small golf course, a library, souvenir shop, cemetery, Doughty's general store, a taxi service, and a gas pump, but no hospital service or police. Police matters are handled by Cumberland County officers. If there is a medical emergency, one must be taken to the mainland via boat. Children of year-round residents take a boat back and forth to the mainland every day from the Stone Pier to go to school. The Chebeague High School closed in 1956; the schoolhouse, built in 1871 still stands and serves as a museum for Great Chebeague's history.
Like nearby Cousins Island, connected to the mainland with a bridge, Great Chebeague has often debated and entertained the idea of "hooking up" to the mainland or Cousins Island with a bridge of its own. The idea has been met with both accolades and vehement disdain; a bridge would be beneficial to the islanders when they need to go shopping, and would eliminate the hassle and cost of taking a boat back and forth (and then needing transportation once you get there), but a bridge would also open up the possibility of the seclusiveness being invaded by day trippers and unwanted picnickers. Thus far no plans have been made to go forth with the bridge idea.
[edit] Notable residents
George Frances Kauffman - George ("Poppy") was a regular cartoonist for the now-defunct nostalgia magazine "The Good Old Days."
Ellen Goodman - A popular, syndicated newspaper columnist.
