Cannobio
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Cannobio is a town on Lago Maggiore in Piedmont, Italy. The last couple of years have seen this small, rather trendy little lakeside town transformed into a popular holiday destination, thanks in large part to a brand new lakeside piazza.
Cannobio is one of only a couple of towns on Lago Maggiore that does not have the main road passing along its lake-front, and it is this relatively simple fact that makes Cannobio so special.
With the main road passing through the central part of town, away from the lake, Cannobio almost uniquely has an enormous, tranquil lakefront, lined with an eclectic selection of hotels, restaurants and cafes, ranging from simple Pizzerias and Spaghetterias, to a restaurant which is widely regarded as one of the best in northern Italy. All enjoy wonderful views of the lake and the mountains beyond.
A short distance away and behind the town there is a vast and verdant hinterland - The Valle Cannobina - made up of stream filled valleys, and snow capped mountains, where hiking, climbing or mountain-biking can be enjoyed.
For the serious shopper, Cannobio and the surrounding area is a paradise, with many clothes shops in town selling well-made and reasonably priced Italians fashions. A trip to Verbania, a little down the lake, will immerse you in designer heaven, as will a trip north, over the Swiss border to Ascona. And of course the jewel of the Italian fashion industry - Milan - is a mere 2 hours away by car…...
In recent times a number of excellent and luxurious hotels have opened up, amongst those the Hotel Cannobio, right on the lakefront, and Hotel Pironi, a jewel of a hotel if ever there was one, tucked away a few short steps from the lake, and the brand new Villa Patrizia, located on the main road, but equipped with a modern array of facilities to rival most new hotels. There are numerous B & B options, including the wonderful Villa Palmira in the main part of town.
'The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III'
The large lakefront Piazza has just been given a major face-lift, as in the winter of 2003/4 it was completely re-laid in cobblestones and granite slabs. Also added was of a set of wide flagstone steps down to the lake, on which to sit and watch the lake steamers come and go from the landing stages nearby, and the sailing boats and wind-surfers skimming to and fro out on the lake.
Some of the buildings both on the lakefront and further back in the old part of town date back over 600 years, from when Cannobio was a renowned smuggling town, and most of these have been restored in fine style and in good taste.
From one, Guiseppe Garibaldi addressed the people of Cannobio in 1859, and on another stands a plaque celebrating an important event in Cannobio in 1627. Each building is painted a different colour, and when the cafes put out their sun umbrellas and tablecloths, and a Riva speedboat or two are moored in the harbour, one can be forgiven for thinking that one really is in Portofino.
Cannobio’s life is centred around this Piazza. It is here the locals come after work and enjoy a stroll up and down eating an ice cream, or sit and drink a Campari Soda in the cool of a summer’s evening, as their children scamper round the traffic free Piazza chattering to each other and planning mischief. It is also here that the old people of the town come when the sun is shining and sit arguing fiercly how things have changed for the better or worse over the years, or where the menfolk idly admire the more mature women of Cannobio!
An old fisherman, bending over the oars of his wooden rowing boat, will pass on his way to what one might think is a futile couple of hours, but he always comes back with some perch or Corregone, whilst the ‘Venezia’ or the ‘Milano’ , both stately old lake steamers, some of which have seen service for over 45 years, will slide alongside the jetty and pick up or discard a gaggle of tourists, who come ashore, heads high in the air as they are first taken by the amazing sight of Cannobio’s lakefront buildings.
Right in the middle of the square there used to be a wonderful and proud bronze statue commemorating the fallen of Cannobio in the wars, on which the kids would climb, and on which the old would dote. There since I was a child 50 years ago, it was recently taken away for reasons of misguided political correctness. A black day in the history of Cannobio, for which those responsible should feel a little ashamed…….
To one side of the Piazza is Cannobio’s ‘Vecchio Porto’ - old harbour - which houses the sailing, rowing and speedboats belonging to the locals. Harbour space is at a premium as the new pontoon harbour built a few years ago a little out of town, unfortunately sank one February evening in 2003, and so this harbour at times contributes vividly to the theatre of the piazza, as people like myself occasionally make a hash of manoeuvring our boats and are then watched by crowds, as, red-faced and fumbling, we attempt to extricate ourselves as quickly as possible!!
In short the Piazza of Cannobio is a fascinating theatre, full of life and activity, the high point of which is the vast weekly market (see later) on a Sunday morning.
[edit] The Lake and recreation
For those wishing for even a mildly active holiday, Cannobio and the surrounding areas can provide most things.
Cannobio has its own Lido at the north end of town with a large sandy beach which even has a EU “Blue-flag” for cleanliness (of which the locals are very proud). The Lido has a large grassy picnic and sitting area, shaded by trees.
There is a brand new snack bar there which is still being constructed at the Cannobio Lido , loos and all the other amenities one would expect. The design of the building - a metal and glass structure - is likely to become an design icon on Lago Maggiore. The Lido can get crowded in the summer period, but there is always space for a few more bodies.
Also near the Lido there is a large sailing school, where sail-boards and boats, including small Hobie-cat-style Catamarans can be hired. The area of lake off Cannobio is regarded as one of the best stretches of sailing in Europe as it has a regular wind which blows up around midday, called the Inverna, and many national and even international sailing regattas are held off Cannobio in summer months.
Away from the Lido an thus in rather more tranquil surroundings, there is an excellent children’s play area, with slides, swings and even a small asphalt cycle-track where toddlers can practise becoming the next Fernando Alonso or whatever that moronic Finn is called. There is also a café there serving snacks and drinks.
Further up the road are 4 good Clay Tennis courts, with a small clubhouse where refreshments are served and where Michaela, a full-time, and, from first hand experience, an exceptionally good, tennis professional gives lessons to both adults and children. There is also a crazy-golf course.
A Vita-pars course was installed a couple of years ago, which is a tarmaced path which meaners its way for a few kilometres around the surrounding area and on which rather intense, and at times emaciated-looking people walk, swinging their arms in manic fashion….
[edit] Shopping
Cannobio is an excellent shopping centre, with just about every sort of bijou shop imagineable – and two of many. Dress and shoe shops abound.
An array of shops selling clothes, shoes, sports equipment, vying with old-fashioned food shops. In the town’s grocery store, the elderly Mrs Testori is pleased to serve you groceries (when she tears herself away from gossiping to her friends !), in the excellent cheese-shop Mario will let you try his huge selection of cheeses.
In the Delicatessen, the doe-eyed Maria will tempt you with her Vitello Tonnato and in the Prodotti tipici (local products) shop, old Mr Raimondi (the one who looks like Moses with his huge beard and wide smile) will help you put on weight with his home-made olive, nut or grape breads.
There is a fresh pasta shop, innumerable café’s, banks, butchers, a fabulous bakery, hardware stores and lots and lots of restaurants.
There are of course supermarkets. 2 braches of the national Conad chain, as well as the more regional Di per Di.
There is also another small fresh produce market off the high street every Thursday morning.
Shopping in Cannobio is not the same as for instance Milan, and if you are looking for the latest Italian fashions, you will not find them here, but there is plenty of choice, and the prices are a little more reasonable than the Strada Montenapoleone or Via Condotti !
Wine shops are to Cannobio what Estate Agents have become in some British or French towns !!.
They seem to be everywhere, and as they all stay in business they must be flourishing. I am always a little disappointed that they only sell Italian wine, as visitors from other countries might like to see a little more selection. But wine is absurdly cheap by general northern European standards, and sometimes is even quite good.
The Sunday market in Cannobio
Il Mercato (the Market) which takes place every Sunday morning is the absolute highlight of the week and some would argue that the market alone makes a visit to Cannobio worthwhile.
At about 6 am a procession of vehicles a begin to arrive and set up what is one of the most interesting and colourful markets one can imagine..
From 8 am the piazza comes alive with visitors, who come in their hundreds, either by car (and make sure your car is parked in your parking space, as parking on Sunday otherwise is almost impossible) or by the steamers which come from all directions. To wander past the innumerable and tastefully laid out stalls, selling everything from beautiful Italian coats and clothes, to leather goods, toys, ceramics, paintings and cookware, is a real treat for the senses, if not so good for the wallet
The huge fresh food area is especially interesting, with a variety of large and colourful stalls selling every fruit and vegetable imaginable There are cheese stalls with Parmesan slabs piled high, and salami stalls where you are encouraged to taste before you buy. There are meat and fish stalls where the locals haggle and argue on the quality and price of everything. My favourite, though not my waist-line’s favourite, is the dried-fruits and candied peel stand, where the choice and quality is bewildering.
[edit] Restaurants, Bars and Wine shops
Cannobio has a vast number of good and some not so good restaurants. The reader will understand that a visit to any Italian tourist town, necessitates an interest in the local gastronomy. So here is a breakdown of where to eat in Cannobio. In the spirit of Encyclopedic impartiality, this contributor has refrained from passing opinionated comments on each establishment, though I argue that to simply list them in order is counter-productive given we are talking holidays.... and Italian food!!
Lo Scalo
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, Tel 0323 71480 (www.loscalo.com )
The jewel in Cannobio’s gastronomic crown.
A set menu of 4 courses at lunch is about 33 Euros and dinner is 45 Euros – not cheap by Italian standards, but absurdly so by the prices back home, given the quality of both the service, the food and the location.
The portions are good and the presentation of the dishes at times resemble a painting.
There is a good and fairly priced wine list. My only complaint is that it contains only Italian wines. A small addition of New World wines would be most welcome.
Il Pontile
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, Cannobio Tel 0323 71735 (www.ilpontile.net)
The hallmark here is excellent food and superb service at reasonable prices. Paolo, the head waiter (who is 80 years old and looks and behaves like 30), makes it a nice place to while away an evening.
The Mussels and french fries are historic as are the Spaghetti alla Vongole.
Il Pontile fills up quickly in the evenings, so booking is advised.
Ristorante Vecchio Porto
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, Cannobio Tel 0323 39639
The restaurant is part of the Hotel Cannobio and is located in a garden under Plane trees overlooking the lake, with stunning views towards the mountains of Switzerland and Italy. It is all rather Dolce Vita and certainly very romantic.
However the foods is also excellent and the pasta sauces very imaginative. The service is young and friendly but what above all else makes this restaurant special is its absolutely stunning lakeside location.
Ristorante Villa Maria
Tel 0323 70160
Located just beyond the piazza at the southern end of town, the Villa Maria is set in a lush garden setting, overlooking the lake. Maybe a tad expensive for what it is as it does tend to cater a little to Germanic tastes, but again the food is excellent and the service friendly.
Antica Stallera Tel 0323 71595
Hidden away in the narrow streets behind the apartment is the Hotel Antica Stellara. Attached is an extremely pretty restaurant in its own garden which serves very good food indeed.
It is perfect for Sunday lunch (don’t eat on the lakefront restaurants on market day is my advice - too crowded and the fumes of the market vans as they pull away rather over-powering !) and is run with a rod of iron by Mama – I haven’t a clue what she’s really called - a friendly old lady, always dressed in black who, it is said, sleeps at her desk as seemingly she is in attendance at all times of the day and night!!
Ristorante Orrido St Anna
This is a restaurant a little outside Cannobio up the Valle Cannobina in Traffiume It is set beside a rushing waterfall with tables set on different levels. The food is usually excellent - though this at times depends on the chef’s mood - and the service is excellent and very friendly. Coffee and grappa is also free.
Ristorante Ca’ Bianca 0323 788038
Whilst situated some 3 miles outside Cannobio (but still within the Cannobio area) the Ca’ Bianca is my personal favourite, as its location is absolutely and utterly unique. The restaurant, overlooking the Cannero Islands on one side, and almost the entire length of Lago Maggiore on the other, is set in a flower and herb scented garden.
Sitting under the lakeside pergola, with a carafe of house wine and plate of home-made Vitello Tonnato is one of life’s true pleasures. To travel there by boat on the night of a full moon is sybaritic excess itself.
There are countless other restaurants in the cheaper price bracket. On the lakefront there is the Bar Verbania which has a restaurant attached where Claudia serves good, copious and reasonably priced pasta and pizza.
Vineria Magistris
Run by a Tom Conti look-alike and his English speaking wife, this is the best bar in town. Set a little away from the main Piazza, but still on the lakefront, it is “every Italian bar that ever was” with a jumble of wine-cases, bottles, an amazing collection of clocks, magazines and very “cool” music. It is open all day, and most of the night and is the perfect place for a Cappucino and a glass (or 3) of Grappa after dinner.
Bar Dello Sport Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
This bar, run by a pleasant young man who seems to speak every language under the sun, is one of the meeting places of Cannobio. Locals congregate to watch football on their TV screens, and if you are a motor-racing fan, watching a Grand Prix here is almost like being at the circuit itself.
If Ferrari win (and let’s face it they usually do) the atmosphere is electric. If Williams or one of the others win…..well, not so good, unless it is Jarno Trulli of course, then all is forgiven !
Bar Jolly Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
Lucca, the owner of this wonderful bar right next door to the Bar dello Sport, is married to the most beautiful woman in Cannobio !! The bar is small, but the welcome and service makes up for this in every respect.
In addition Lucca took time out last winter to learn the art of ice-cream making, and his ices, served infront of his bar on a hot summer’s day are a lesson in the art of cooling off in style.
Wine shops
On the ground floor of Piazza Lago 31 is the Fiaschetteria Isolino where Carlo has a wonderful selection of extremely well-priced wines, grappas and liqueurs.
Casa Bava (www.casabava.it)
Giuseppe Bava is the wine-king of Cannobio and has a quite stunning wine-shop on the lake front, a little up the piazza, which sells some of the best known wines from around the world. His clients come from all over Europe to buy his wines, and his shop is quite on a par on anything found in Paris, London or New York !
Giuseppe is also a former Opera singer, and will serenade you with an Verdi Aria (or if you are really unlucky two Verdi Arias…. !!) but, seriously, his shop is quite outstanding and his knowledge of wine unrivalled and profound. A real must in Cannobio.
GALA DEL GUSTO
Guiseppe and his elegant artist wife Corinna also organise the annual Galà del Gusto (Gala of taste). [www.galadesgusto.com] This is a superb and very professional Italian version of a “slow-food” festival, and takes place every August on 2 successive weekends. Representatives of wine-producers, interesting food companies, regional Salami and Cheese manufacturers and other companies with whom Guiseppe has a close contact, set up stands on the Piazza and provide visitors with friendly information and samples of their wares.
A wonderful meal, cooked a l’aperto (in the open) is also available for a small fee. Galà del Gusto is one of the highlights of Cannobio’s ’season’ and is an absolute must for visitors at that time of year.
Thursday evening Brocante (Summer months only)
From the middle of July to end of August an Antique french-style ”brocante” sets up every Thursday evening from about 5pm to midnight.
Objets d’art from all over Italy are on sale and are generally of a very high quality.
This market is very different from the Sunday market, and as it takes place in the evening, the market is packed with people who have come to the Piazza for dinner.
