Brede Arkless

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Brede Arkless, nee Boyle (10 August 193918 March 2006), was a leading female climber and mountaineer, and was actively involved in the all-women's climbing movement. She was born in Manchester, of Dublin parents. In 1964 she married fellow mountaineer Geoff Arkless, and together they started a mountain school in Wales. She made several all-women trips to the greater ranges, whilst rearing eight children. She also organised women-only climbing courses, together with the noted climber and feminist Jill Lawrence. She was only the second woman to qualify, in the 1960s, as a British mountain guide, and was the first woman to qualify for admission to the international mountain guides' association, UIAGM. Increasingly involved in all-women climbing and guiding, she eventually separated from her husband, moved to New Zealand in 1990 and became a New Zealand citizen in 1995. While in her fifties she guided a total of 22 ascents of Aoraki/Mount Cook.

In 1998, an expedition of five including a 59-year-old Arkless succeeded in crossing the Garhwal region of the Indian Himalaya between the Hindu temples of Badrinath and Kedarnath, a feat that had only been accomplished once before, in 1934.[1] In 2000 Arkless tried to become the oldest woman to ascend Mount Everest but failed when she had to abandon her attempt at 8,500 m (28,000 ft) due to severe altitude sickness. The experience left her disillusioned: "Everest is full of non-climbers and rich people. Everest is all about summit fever and people who shouldn't be where they are. One guy said 'How many 8000m peaks have you climbed?' When I said 'One', he turned away."[2]

She died of pancreatic cancer, aged 66. After being diagnosed with cancer, Arkless rode her bicycle more than 150 miles over high mountain passes from her home to a hospital in Christchurch for exploratory surgery, which revealed that her illness was inoperable.[3]

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  1. ^ The Glasgow Herald, "Moran leads a Himalayan epic", by Tom Prentice, June 20, 1998.
  2. ^ The Christchurch Press, "Mountain of cash", by John Henzell and Brede Arkless, February 24, 2001.
  3. ^ The Daily Telegraph, "Obituary of Brede Arkless Climber and mother of eight who became only the second woman to qualify as a British mountain guide" April 15, 2006. Sources differ on the actual distance.