Beira, Mozambique
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Beira is the second largest city in Mozambique. It lies in the central region of the country in Sofala Province, where the Pungue River meets the Indian Ocean. It had a population of 412,588 in 1997 and an estimated 546,000 in 2006. It holds the regionally-significant Port of Beira which acts as a gateway for both the central interior portion of the country as well as the land-locked nations of Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi.
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[edit] History
Beira is also noteworthy as it was the core city for Renamo (The National Resistance of Mozambique) during the post-revolution Civil War (which ended only in 1994). Now that Renamo is a recognized national political party, Beira remains its core constituency.
During the colonial period Beira was noted for its large English-speaking population, and was a favourite holiday destination for white Rhodesians. One reminder of this is the former Grande Hotel near the shore of the Indian Ocean, which now lies in near-ruins, but is still occupied by around 1,000 poor Beirans.
In the year 2000, Beira, along with Maputo and most of Southern Mozambique was covered by flooding. Millions were left homeless and hundreds died. The 2000 Mozambique flood had a negative impact on the local economy.
[edit] Attractions
Attractions in the city include its cathedral, lighthouse and Macuti Beach. It is also home to an airport and lies at the end of a railway line to Harare. There are a few restaurants of note in the area that are up to par for tourists. Bique's (threathened by the sea waters) is a restaurant located on an attractive stretch of beach along the southeastern edge of the city some kilometers from the city center and serves several traditional African dishes as well as some South African cuisine. Another restaurant located within the heart of downtown is called Kanimambo and is owned by a native Macanese couple that serves authentic (and very good, even by Western standards) Chinese food. Both restaurants are easily located by asking directions.
The only notable hotel for tourists is called the Tivoli and is located downtown, near Kanimambo. The rooms are small but clean, and unless you know someone with a nice place in town you'll be hard pressed to find anything better. There are some good alternatives in the form of Macuti housing complex, another nice lodge by the Macuti Lighthouse, and a good simple pension on Eduardo Mondlane Avenue.
In the city itself there is very little to see in the way of tourist attractions. Beira does not cater for the mass-tourist, but can be very interesting to the photographer with many places of great human, architectural and nature value. If you are interested in a bit of history you might want to swing by the Grande Hotel Beira, which was once an exquisite hotel owned by the Portuguese but was abandoned when Mozambique gained its independence of the colonial rulers and is now occupied by several hundred squatters.
If you make your way towards the east, away from the city, on the opposite side of the peninsula (bordered on the west by the a large ocean inlet/river and on the east by the Indian Ocean) on which the city is located you will find some very beautiful, pristine white-sand beaches and no one else in sight for miles. Here and there as you head north you will encounter small villages and if you time your visit right you will find fishermen coming home with their catches. Pay particular attention to their prawns (camarāo), which are delicious and which they will sell to you at a very low price if you know how to negotiate and if you're willing to prepare (de-shell) and cook them yourself. Prawns can also be obtained right southwest of the downtown area, on the beach, usually early in the mornings. There is a large market in the area and it is hard to miss.
Security is not a major issue, but if you walk around with money, cellphone or camera and look like a tourist, be it in city center or on issolated streches of beach, you can get into trouble. Most likely no one will hurt you, but will give you a scare and take your belongings. General rule is to not take anything expect for some hand money when going around and you will be ok.
Heading north along the only highway that leaves the city you will soon come across the entrance to the old Gorongosa national park. Absolutely worth seeing if you have the time and willingness to rough it through the overgrown roads and paths and a relative lack of infrastructure. The government still stations a few rangers in the park and there is rapid work being done to restore the park to its former glory, but there is much left undone. Do not expect a comfy, hand-holding safari, but many will find the potential rewards of a trek through a virtually untouched game reserve worth the hassle and risks.
These days, nice places to visit include the Nautico's for food and sea, Biques and Pappas (best food but also expensive), eat some "pastelaria" in the city center or visit the local markets.
Another highlight is Savanna, which is a small camp with restaurant and beach outside Beira. The water is a bit more transparent, the food ok and the boot trip over the river a nice bit of fun. You will need a 4x4.
Rio Maria is also worth visiting, and is an estuary. There are no facilities. Main atractions are the natural beauty and people.
[edit] Town twinning
[edit] See also
