Arènes de Lutèce

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Model of the Arènes de Lutèce

Northern bleachers

The Arènes today

The Arènes de Lutèce are some of the only remaining ruins from the Gallo-Roman era in Paris (formerly known as Lutèce in French or Lutetia in Latin), along with the remains of the public baths at Cluny. Lying in what is now the Quartier Latin, this amphitheater could once seat 15,000 people, and was used to present gladiatorial combats.

Constructed in the 1st century AD, this amphitheater is considered the longest of its kind constructed by the Romans. The sunken arena of the amphitheater was surrounded by the wall of a podium 8.2 feet (2.5m) high, surmounted by a parapet. The presence of a 135-foot (41.2m) long stage allowed scenes to alternate between theatrical productions and combat. A series of nine niches aided in improving the acoustics. Five cubbyholes were situated beneath the lower bleachers, of which three appear to have been animal cages that opened directly into the arena. Historians believe that the bleachers, which surrounded more than half of the arena's circumference, could accommodate as many as 17,000 spectators.

Upper bleachers were relegated to slaves, the poor, and women — while the lower seats were reserved for Roman dignitaries. For comfort, a linen awning sheltered spectators from the hot sun. Circus acts showcased wild animals and gladiatorial contests; popular theatrical productions of the time were the tragedies of Aristophenes and Plautus. From its vantage point, the amphitheater also afforded a spectacular view of the Bièvre and Seine rivers.

When Lutèce was sacked during the barbaric invasions of 280 A.D., some of the structure's stone work was carted off to reinforce the city's defenses around the Île de la Cité. Subsequently, the amphitheater became a cemetery, and then it was filled in completely following the construction of Philippe Auguste's walls (ca. 1210).

Centuries later, even though the surrounding neighborhood (quartier) had retained the name les Arènes, no one really knew exactly where the ancient arena had been. It was discovered by Théodore Vaquer during the building of the Rue Monge between 1860-1869, when the Compagnie Générale des Omnibus sought to build a tramway depot on the site.

Spearheaded by the author Victor Hugo (1802-1885) and a few other intellectuals, a preservation committee called la Société des Amis des Arènes undertook to save the archaeological treasure. After the demolition of the Couvent des Filles de Jésus-Christ in 1883, one-third of the arena was uncovered. The Municipal Council dedicated funds to restoring the arena and establishing it as a public square, which was opened in 1896.

After the tramway lines and depot were dismantled in 1916 and line 10 of the Paris Métro was constructed, the doctor and anthropologist Jean-Louis Capitan (1854-1929) continued with additional excavation and restoration of the arena toward the end of World War I. The neighboring Square Capitan, built on the site of the old Saint-Victor reservoir, is dedicated to his memory. Unfortunately, a portion of the original arena — opposite the stage — was lost to buildings which line rue Monge.

Standing in the center of the arena one can still observe significant remnants of the stage and its nine niches, as well as the grilled cages in the wall. The stepped bleachers are not original, but historians believe that 41 arched openings punctuated the façade.

[edit] Visiting the Arènes de Lutèce

Today the Arènes de Lutèce is a public park, accessible by entrances on three sides, all of them in the Ve arrondissement. One is a passageway through the building at 47, rue Monge; the second is a long open corridor (vomitoir) accessible from rue de Navarre through a gate; the third is through the Square Capitan from its entrance at 10, rue des Arènes.

The Arènes are open from 8:30 to 5pm every day during the winter, and remain open until 10pm during the summer.