Áo dài
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Áo Dài, literally meaning "long dress" or "long tunic," is one out of several traditional Vietnamese costumes worn (nowadays) primarily by women. It is the most popular national costume in Vietnam.
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[edit] History
Pronounced 'Ao Yai' in the south, and 'Ao Zai' in the north, the costume has had a short history relative to the country and people of Vietnam.
The costume has faced countless modifications throughout the centuries but its basic form consists of a long flowing gown with a slit on both sides, often with a high fitted collar, worn over long silk pants.
Historians have suggested that the Ao Dai was an evolution of different influences from many directions, including the indigenous 4-flapped tunic, or Ao Tu Than (Áo Tứ Thân), one of the other more well known (and much older than Ao Dai) traditional Kinh costumes.
Early versions of the ao dai date back to 1744 when Lord Vu Vuong of the Nguyen Dynasty decreed both men and women should wear an ensemble of trousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. It was not until 1930 that the modern Ao Dai made its presence. In 1930, the Vietnamese fashion designer Cat Tuong, known to the French as Monsieur Le Mur, modified it. He lengthened the Ao Dai so that the top reached the floor and made it fit the curves of the body closer. Until then, 2-flapped Ao Dai had been made up with 5 parts: 2 parts sewn together in the back, 2 parts sewn together in the front, and a hidden part inside of the front flap. After 1930, Ao Dai was simply made of 2 parts, so the flaps became generally slimmer.
In Saigon during the 1950s, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors modified the Ao Dai to a form closest to what is seen today. He produced the gowns with raglan sleeves, creating a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm. The Ao Dai continued to get more form-fitting.
Despite those two more major modifications to the Ao Dai in the last century, it has also seen slight changes throughout each decade as fashion changes constantly. Everything from floral to checkered patterns, collarless Ao Dai, the tunic length being largely reduced to just below the knees, etc. - has been seen throughout different eras of Vietnamese history.
The Ao Dai has always been more prevalent in the south than in the north, and has faced a surge in popularity in recent years, even with overseas Vietnamese.
In recent decades it has inspired worldwide renowned fashion designers such Ralph Lauren, among other big names, to create entire collections of Ao Dai.
[edit] Original Áo Dài
The original Ao Dai tended to be much looser fitting in general, with larger and wider sleeves. In the past, rich Vietnamese often displayed their prosperity through clothing - often by wearing many layers at once.
[edit] The Royal/Wedding Áo Dài: Áo Mệnh Phu
The royal costume most commonly known today would be the "Ao Menh Phu" of the Nguyen dynasty. It is predictably more festive (in color and decoration) and includes a long flowing outer robe (with large, wide sleeves).
This costume, once mandatory for royal women of the Nguyen dynasty to wear at public functions, has subsequently become the mandatory costume for Vietnamese brides.
In addition, brides often wear a Khan Dong (Khăn Đống), a crown-like headgear which is made from silk brocade.
[edit] The Ao Dai and its place in modern-day Vietnam
The most popular style of the Ao Dai as we see it today is tight-fitting around the wearer's upper torso, emphasizing her bust and curves. For this reason, the Ao Dai, while it covers the whole body, is said to be provocative, especially when it is made of thin or see-through fabric.
More adventurous versions of the modern Ao Dai are even collarless - a style first popularized decades ago by the infamous Madame Nhu (former first lady of South Vietnam).
Although it disappeared somewhat for a short period due to the extravagance and elegance of the costume being seen as an excess, it has surprisingly come back with a vengeance both for Vietnamese in Vietnam and overseas.
In addition to being worn at traditional and festive occasions, plain white Ao Dai is the uniform for female students in many Vietnamese high schools and some universities. Many companies also require their female staff to be attired in the Ao Dai.
